Nurgle Defiler
December 30, 2007
Here are the parts you need to make a defiler. I did not put the dreadnought parts in this photo because they were a last minute decision. I felt the front of the model would be too thin without them. I used one basilisk sprue, six ork dreadnought legs, two dreadnought arms, and parts of an old chaos rhino.
Building a Goblin shaman
December 30, 2007
Once upon a time, Games Workshop provided a wonderful, diverse range of miniatures for the various armies of its games. There were often dozens of variations for each troop type, and many different character models to choose from.
Plague Terminators
December 30, 2007
1) This is where you will start for this conversion. I have all the parts laid out for you, and nothing else will be used other than putty and wire. As you can see there is little extra needed and the plastic skeletons are a cheap way to convert a model.
Creation of a Tau Catfish
December 30, 2007
White Dwarf #271 saw the release of the Tau update to the Vehicle Design Rules. Finally armed with our weapon point costs, Shas’os could finally start breathing life into the mad scientist ideas that had been plaguing their minds. Given the anime style of the Tau, there was no shortage of inspiration, nor of model kits to transform into Tau machineries of destruction!
Bulding an Orc Shaman from scratch
December 30, 2007
As with the Night Goblin shaman, there is only one model available. And just as with the Night Goblin shaman, this just isn’t good enough. So, once again it’s time to go converting…
Making a goblin shaman
December 30, 2007
A follow-up to the article on scratch-building a Night Goblin shaman.
The day after making my NG shaman, I thought about how I would make a plain Goblin shaman. There are no models available for the character, and haven’t been since 3rd edition (and I’m assuming that models existed then). So, a free hand with regard to how they should look. I decided that mine would resemble a brightly coloured jester, like the model from a Warhammer Quest expansion, which I have heard of being used as a Goblin shaman. Why a jester? Well, the outfit looks different, and suits the Goblin mentality, which is similar to that of a magpie - bright and colourful is GOOD! Plus, shamans are dangerous things for greenskins - get too close at the wrong time and your head will pop. So naturally they will be marked out with distinctive clothing. Thus the bright red and yellow jesterish outfit.
Scratch building Liches
December 30, 2007
I have a fairly extensive Khemrian army, and am very fond of my skeletal horde. However, it has missed something rather vital - liche priests. A Khemrian army has to have at least 1, and should have several. GW doesn’t currently make any models for liches, though, and I’ve yet to see anything suitable by other companies. So, time to get out the bits box and putty…
The Complete Guide to Magnetic Mounting and Vehicular Conversion
December 30, 2007
This is the complete guide to magnetic mounting and vehicular conversion for the Tau army.
Sculpting Tools 101
December 30, 2007
Well, can’t say I’m a pro, but I’ve surprised myself recently with what I’ve been able to do without the least bit of training in sculpting. Truth is, most miniature painters have plenty of untapped artistic ability that they never even realize is there. The biggest problem facing us all is the cost of the tools involved. Sure, I could go on for hours about the myriad sculpting media out there, but all of us mini’s people have our faves, from green stuff to simple plumber’s expoxy putty, there’s a wide base of materials that we can use. My personal fave is Aves’ Epoxy sculpt: excellent work time with great capacity for holding detail. But I digress… back to the subject.
Building an Exorcist Tank
December 30, 2007
Guide to Exorcist Assembly
Being a relatively new Witch Hunters player, I have been starting my collection of models, and really liked the look of the Exorcist model from GW. The pipe organ has a coolness factor that you don’t get on many other models in 40K. However, it can be a challenge to assemble. The kit is actually just an Immolator with a LOT of extra metal bits to make the Exorcist – but no instructions! So, with the help of the LO members in the WH forum, I came up with these instructions and suggestions for assembling the Exorcist.
Supplies I used:
Exorcist (ordered from GW Direct Services)
small metal files
epoxy putty (Green Stuff, Milliput, etc)
pin vise
metal wire for pinning (I used paper clips, brass wire also works here)
super glue
primer, paints, etc
These instructions assume that you have already assembled the Immolator body per its own instructions. As any assembly goes, there can be variations in how certain tasks are done. In my case, I assembled the entire Immolator before adding the Exorcist parts. Others prefer to leave the top Immo tray unglued to make later assembly easier. I will try to detail directions for each of these alternatives.
1. Remove all of the metal tabs and vent/mold lines from the metal pieces. Using the files, try to get every mating surface (areas that touch flat to other pieces) as smooth as possible. The only exceptions should be:
- the bottoms of the organ pipes
- under both the organist and the loader
Those “bumps” will be needed to get the pieces in the correct orientation during assembly.
2. After cleaning up all the metal pieces, wash them in warm soapy water. The metal is coated with a powder that allows it to release from the mold - this will cause trouble with glue and paint later, and needs to be cleaned off now. Rinse well, and let set overnight to be sure that it is completely dry.
3. Check the fit of all the pieces a second time. Use the files to clean up any uneven spots.
4. Place the pipe base on top of the Immolator, and check for an even fit across the back of the tank. I had to stretch my pipe base by slowly pulling it apart about one millimeter to get it to fit correctly. Others have found it easier to trim the plastic to allow the metal to fit better on the top of the tank.
5. Glue the hands to the organist. Also glue the arm to the loader. Set these aside, as they are much easier to paint when not connected to their bases.
6. The hardest part of putting the organ cupola together is the keyboard. The keyboard does not slip easily into the slots on the sides of the cupola. To make it easier to paint, I used two thin strips of green stuff on both sides of the keyboard, and pressed the sides of the cupola onto the keyboard. Using the base of the cupola as a guide, I set the sides and keyboard on the base to harden, without gluing them down to the base. Otherwise, the green stuff may not set right, and the alignment of the sides would not be correct.
http://www.narthecia.com/images/assembly0.jpg
7. I also added pins to the bottom of the organ pipes. Using the existing alignment bumps as a guide, I drilled 5 mm deep holes into the bottom of the pipes, and glued 10mm wire pins (made from paper clips) into place. After final assembly, this should help the glue keep everything together if the model should fall over.
http://www.narthecia.com/images/assembly1.jpg
http://www.narthecia.com/images/assembly2.jpg
8. Next, I sprayed primer on all of my parts, making sure to get even coverage. Specifically, I intended to paint the pipes unassembled from the rest of the base, and assemble that portion afterward.
9. After painting the parts of the organ pipe assembly, glue the pipes to the base. Once the glue dries, bend the pins to set flush against the underside of the base. This will help secure each section to the base itself. Another option is to use green stuff to hold those pins in place under the base. Once the green stuff dries hard, you shouldn’t be able to move the pipes at all - therefore, make sure to check the fit of the pipe base on the tank before it completely dries, or the whole thing may not sit level due to a little too much green stuff in the wrong place.
http://www.narthecia.com/images/assembly3.jpg
10. The organ cupola was painted in four separate parts: the base and missile rack, the keyboard/cupola sides combo, the cupola front, and the organist. Only after finishing painting all four parts were they glued together.
11. Glue the loader tray into place in the back of the Immolator body. I used a 25mm tall strip of plasticard shaped in a cross to support the tray. If you have not glued the Immolator top down, you can actually glue the tray to the underside of the Immy top, then attach that to the main tank body.
12. Glue the organist and loader in their respective places, being sure that the alignment bumps are in the right place.
13. Paint the armor plates. Before gluing them into place, trim off the rivets from the walls of the tank body where the plates will be. This allows the plates to fit better, and therefore the glue holds better. Another option is to glue pins into the back of the plates, and pin them to the body. However, this would have to be done before the tank body is assembled so that the pins can be bent to secure the plates to the body.
Now, go release the Emperor’s Vengeance on those heretical enemies!
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