How can i rectify this, i sprayed the models white and it came out with this horrible powdery finish, i was livid!!!

anyway of getting this stuff off my minis?

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff318/tomnewdelhi/DSC01055.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff318/tomnewdelhi/DSC01058.jpg

edit: Tut tut tut... Less of the swearing, please... -t.

Either strip them or deal with it. I've had it happen on a beast I was painting and even after layers of paint, it still showed the fuzz.

Actually, thinking about it right now, you could try varnishing the model, then painting over that. No telling how that will affect the details, but an option. I would just go with stripping myself, wish I did on mine.

i tried scrubbing it with an old toothbrush which didnt have much effect, trying to paint over it is a pain in the ass!

any suggestions on stripping chemicals which wont melt the mini? ta!

Use a sharp knife and scrape away... being very careful.

This happens more often with white primer than black. As far as stripping the models, I am no help. However, in the future I would recommend shaking the paint really well for at least one minute, spraying from a good distance away, make sure you are not spraying in a dusty (or pollen) area, and when you finish priming turn the can upside-down and spray until it stops. That should clear the residue out of the cap so that it doesn't spray dried up crud on your next batch of models.

there are plenty of threads on stripping minis.
I've always used BreakFluid and it works like a dream on my plastic mins. It's a nightmare on the skin (and environment) though so make sure you use plastic- or rubbergloves and dispose of any waste Breakfluid in a environmentalfriendly manner.

Don't go knifing on it. It takes ages and is doomed to leave marks you don't want.

this may be of assistance
http://www.librarium-online.com/forums/painting/109849-simple-guide-stripping-paint-off-miniatures-order-repaint-them.html#post1060731

Just to clarify, did you the skull white spray or rough coat? that sort of looks like rough coat, used for giving terrain buildings a grainy look.

Scrape with an x-acto blade the same way you would clean mold lines. Just don't press too hard and push the knife away from you and you should be fine.

As for why it would happen... could be that you sprayed too far away, could be outside the normal operating temperature/humidity, could be a bad can. You really don't want to be further than 12" away from the model otherwise you start finding that the spray dries in the air (somewhat) and will create an effect similar to that...

Cheers,

-Mike

Thanks for the replies guys, ill take a peek at the links for stripping mini's. the spray is a standard skull white.

eh? Take it back to the store. They should replace you paint and I think you may find that they can get you a new model too.

Oh and ask nicely. But when I was ten and had problems they were always nice to me.

Hmm im a bit older than 10 year old now :(

its a whole squad of 5 close combat termies! i was livid when i saw the result, needless to say the offending can was impaled on a garden fork and slung into nearby bushes!

- the can however had the last laugh! - as i peirced it with the fork the can decided in its dying breath to fire its contents onto my leg...

- i went inside and had a stif drink...

Needless to say ive learnt my lesson!

Needless to say ive learnt my lesson!

So... Test your spraycans before spraying models, and exercise caution when Murdering Spraypaint?:D;Y

Seriously though, that sucks - I've had similar mishaps happen before, though not quite that bad. Good luck stripping them clean again!

Skull white spray seems to do this a lot, happened to the one guy I sprayed with it. I don't know why.

Shango pretty much covers most of the reasons for this. Another thing I've found helpful is to wash the mini before base-coating.

Is it just me who thinks it looks kinda cool, like they are fighting somewhere really really hot and its blistering the armour? Or some weird alien has spat a load of goo at it to make the armour bubble up?

Just me then? :)

This happened to me once and i followed all the recommended procedures and used it the right time of day to get the ideal temp/humidity and everything. The same can didnt always produce the same results. i switched to black and i have never looked back. black has never done that and it has great results, even my bro-in law has now switched.

i will never undercoat white unless i really really have to because of the color (like a really like tan or something)

How can i rectify this, i sprayed the models white and it came out with this horrible powdery finish, i was livid!!!

anyway of getting this stuff off my minis?

http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff318/tomnewdelhi/DSC01055.jpg
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff318/tomnewdelhi/DSC01058.jpg

edit: Tut tut tut... Less of the swearing, please... -t.

Just wondering what was the temperature like outside when you did your spraying? Though I doubt it was a case of being too far away from the mini as you were spraying and having it sort of partially dry before it contacted it. I've actually had this happen with a can of black spraypaint (Armory brand) best bet is to just strip the paint.

That really sucks, I'd say the offending can got off lightly with impalement ala garden fork. As previously said it looks like the spray has started to set, either due to distance, temperature or not mixing (or a combo).
Personally I'd try a bit of gentle scraping with a curved blade, or a combination of fine sandpaper and a lot of patience. I've never tried stripping. But of all the options, for getting back to nice smooth minis awaiting paint, I recon go to shop get them replaced is probably the quickest (and keep those as well!).

i live in hawaii and this happends to over 50% of the cans I buy.

it's because of condensation within the can/nozzle.

You live on the mainland U.S. Cold at night...warm in the day?
If the can is in the garage, or (heaven forbid) outside. it'll cause your cans of spraypaint to sweat INSIDE the can, causing a mix of water and paint INSIDE the can. the can sits during the day, warming up slower than the outside. once the can hits the same temp as outside as in, everything is fine. once it cools down during the evening, the can inside is still hot, making water condense within the can.

Before you paint, make sure the humidity outside is not high, or paint in the morning or afternoon.
Then spray the can for a good 15-20 seconds, tilting it and clearing the water from the nozzle or the stem.
Then, shake the bejeezus out of the can. I shake mine for a good 4-5 minutes (a few shakes doesn't cut it. spraypaint rules are the exact opposite of men's bathroom humor. shake it more than twice)

once fully remixed, spray a bit onto a cardboard soda can case tray or anything that you haven't already sprayed. check the paint consistency.

If it's good. go to town! if it comes out like your pics..more shaking.
Those "beads" or "bumps" are built up paint that sort of does a traffic jam inside the nozzle and stem of the can , which since water is more flid, moves out the nozzle faster, backing the paint up into a semi shotgun blast.

I have had a granular type result like that with an airbrush when I held the brush too far away from the model which allowed the paint enough time to dry in the air and clump up as it was applied, dunno if that has anything to do with your case or not but thought I'd mention it anyway.

Simple Green all the way for stripping, brake fluid works great but is toxic and as such is too high maintenance to work with and dispose of (properly).

I feel your pain as I have had this happen with white primer also - it was a combination of being too far away, humid conditions and dusty garage. Doesn't make it any easier for you though. I say strip them and start over but if you think all conditions were right - just ask for a new can of primer from your LGS.

If it makes you feel any better - I have also had "furring" happen with Purity Seal - over a just finished model - looked like I had added white fluffy bits all over it - needless to say - even added gloss varnish couldn't repair him and he is still not repainted - just back in the box awaiting his time to shine again....bloody aerosols... LOL

Im in the UK and these were sprayed in the day time, probably warm as i think it was summer, it was year before last i did these, i only just found em, im thinking its prolly too far distance when i sprayed, im gunna try the brake fluid stripping in the next couple of days, ive tried teh sand paper and toothbrush method wih no avail, im not too keen on scraping with a blade as i reckon ill end up cutting ouit some details, when i have done the dunking in brake fluid ill post some piccys!

Im in the UK and these were sprayed in the day time, probably warm as i think it was summer, it was year before last i did these, i only just found em, im thinking its prolly too far distance when i sprayed, im gunna try the brake fluid stripping in the next couple of days, ive tried teh sand paper and toothbrush method wih no avail, im not too keen on scraping with a blade as i reckon ill end up cutting ouit some details, when i have done the dunking in brake fluid ill post some piccys!

I had the same problem with a Leman-Russ battle tank. To say that I was livid was the understatment of the year. If you haven't not tryed simple green then I suggest you give it a go. It is safe for both metal and plastic mini's, it's safe to handle and its bio-degrades ( aka you can dump it down the sink and then forget about it). Personally I have never used break-fluid so I can't say what is better. And next time don't let the can get the last laugh at cha ;)

Can you get Simple Green over here in the UK? ive never seen it before and it sounds a lot easier to dispose of