Painting Grey Knight Terminators with New Washes, Easily - Warhammer 40K Fantasy

Welcome to Librarium Online!

Join our community of 80,000+ members and take part in the number one resource for Warhammer and Warhammer 40K discussion!

Registering gives you full access to take part in discussions, upload pictures, contact other members and search everything!

Register Now!

User Tag List

+ Reply to Thread
Results 1 to 1 of 1
  1. #1
    Senior Member stayscrunchyinmilk's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    1 Post(s)
    0 Thread(s)

    370 (x8)

    Here is my painting guide on how to do your Grey Knight Terminators, using the new washes in a few, easy to use steps.
    I've put it here to get your opinions first, and i'm going to do alot of IG (see my signature for another example) and their allied troops, in the relevant forums.

    I figured most painting guides need renewing as the new washes are totally different to the new inks. I also wanted to do a easy, step by step guide that's not too expensive, or hard to do. I'm going to use GW products, as if you're buying the miniatures you can probably get the paints, brushes and tools.

    Underneath is a photobucket link to the resulting model, that took approx 3 hours to paint, including all drying times. (About 1;45 without - The new washes dry fast). If you painted more than one in a "Assembly Line" fashion it should work out even faster, although if you haven't painted much it'll take more time, as you're getting used to the techniques.

    As i'm trying to keep the complexity and cost down (More funding for your army!) this guide requires less than 10 paints, and three brushes. (If you don't do the flaming sword - that's a extra 5 paints and 45 mins of painting time, and is the trickiest bit. It'd look fine with a metallic or black finish, or a mono colour red/blue/yellow as you prefer.)

    Preparing the Models
    Pay particular attention to mould lines, as you’re going to be Using washes and Wetbrushing. (Similar to drybrushing, catching raised areas)
    I recommend removing the casting “lumps” or “tabs” first with clippers, (I don’t mean the "prongs" used to attach the model to the base.)

    Then file the remaining mould lines off – Use The large flat file for the weaponry blades / accessible greaves (Stop and inspect as you’re doing so – be careful of the scrollwork), The Triangular cross-sectioned file for the parts with limited access – again being careful of the scrollwork, and stopping and checking as you go. The Circular cross–section is best used for curved areas, like the “stave” of the force weapon handles.

    Dry fit the model together – check the arms fit snugly against the torso – if not try to find out why, and remove (with file) the offending bit. It’s best to think about the pose you want now, and check it fits in that pose. The more experienced may want to pin the arms in place, but I don’t think it’s too neccessary with the GK Term’s if they fit snugly

    Preparing the base is also done at this point – It really does matter how you base your minis, and it’s a shame to ruin the final appearance by not basing them / having a shoddy base. I really, really do recommend the basing kit, a couple of choice bits of slate, mixed with sand and the smallest slate bits give a really nice finish. I also use superglue to make sure it doesn’t rub off after a bit of use, but each to their own. When dry “shake off” any exess, and I prefer to gently rub a finger over the top to get any loose bits off before trying to paint it, and flick off any stray bits that are contacting the edges of the feet with a craft knife.

    In the example below I removed the basing tabs with clippers, filed down the remaining stumps and drilled the heel, then through the slate (I use – and mark – my oldest drill bit for this as they do blunt after going through slate). The pin itself was a straightened, clipped staple.

    It should now look like this:


    Now undercoat it carefully (I use black) I always base my models before undercoating, as It adds a bit more “grip” to the basing material. Be sure to shake the can properly, and use a few small layers, waiting for it to dry between coats rather than one large one. I do two sprays first, one from the front and one from the back, (spraying them from above at about 45 degrees) then roll them onto their backs and do another spray, angled towards the chin, and then one from the rear, angled up (A bit like a chaos black enema)

    It is absolutely paramount to wait for the paint, and any paint on the mat to dry before tipping them on their side – any wet parts in contact with the table will stick to it and the paint will dry in unwanted shapes, disturbing the finish.. I recommend doing this outdoors, to avoid a headache, and don’t undercoat if it’s been raining – The moisture in the air will make it “wrinkle” up.

    It should now look like this:

    Step 2) Painting Bases
    Now, I do the bases first, as getting a bit of paint on the foot won’t matter at this point, or damage any detail. I’m also going to drybrush the base, and wouldn’t like to drybrush around a finished paint job.
    [FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3][COLOR=#000000]I used Adeptus Battlegrey first with a large flat drybrush, then when that had dried I drybrushed with Astronomicum Grey.

    Step 3) Painting the Main Coat
    Then, after that had dried I got a Small Drybrush, and taking care went around the feet near to the base with boltgun metal. When I’d finished going up to the ankle I then used a Small Flat Drybrush, applying boltgun metal to the rest of the model, taking care not to let paint pool into any detailed scrollwork.

    Step 4) Washes
    I then applied a generous application of Asurmen Blue Wash to the boltgun areas, Inspecting it periodically to make sure there was no missed bits or large “drops” of wash forming. (Which I remove with a brush). I used a Small Drybrush for this. Allow to dry, and don’t be worried if it seems to have too much blue on the raised areas, we’ll fix that soon.

    Step 5) Wetbrushing.
    Wetbrushing is, quite simply getting the paint onto your brush, stroking it over a ceramic tile / not too absorbent surface a few times – but is still wet, then loosely stroking over the model. This will then paint the raised areas, hopefully leaving crevices etc with blue ink / boltgun metal finish. I used chainmail for this step.

    It should now look like this:


    To be finished when time permits, including adding more photo's - approx 5x more steps too (Including sword)

    Last edited by stayscrunchyinmilk; June 20th, 2008 at 15:59.

+ Reply to Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts