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Hello one and all.
Got a half decently painted Ultramarines army that i'm trying to finish, but just cant get the shoulder pad transfers to lie flat on the curved surface. Anyone got any tips or ideas ? I'm not a good enough painter to try freehanding that "u", and its a bit late in the day to rip the pads off and fit the chapter speciffic metal ones.
Many thanks, clive
well, when your getting them out, give yourself a little bit extra all around, then with a pair of tweezers, pick up both the transfer sheet, and the paper backing, with a little practice you can guess where the U will show up, but place both paper and mark on the model, gently, but firmly press down on the shoulder pad with your finger, then carfully peal away the paper backing, i stress carfully, because you can often rip the icon in half, but i have found this to be the best mothid, though if you have the chapter icon shoulder pads, they look way better, since they actually stick out. it might be worth the trouble to rip those shoulder pads off, if you Super duber glued your stuff together dont bother, ull just snap the marine trying to break a bond if you filled the enitre pad with glue, avoid doing this, saves money over time anyway
Last edited by ForgedInTheFurnaceOfWar; November 8th, 2005 at 09:24.
problem is this - flat transferes, curved surface, no easey solutions. There are a couple of things you can do though..
1. Ensure the surface you are sticking the txfers to is wet, at least with water, although for best results, most hoby stores (asside from GW) sel la special fluid (cant recall the name) specifically for this purpose
2, cut the txfer to minimise the amount of txfer material, in the case of ultra marine chapter logo, this involves cutting a "v" in the top
I Hate decals. they suck and are my personal bane.
Thats why I just paint everything... (grumble.... 10 min shoulderpads...)
My Girlfriend's dad uses a solution called solv-o-set for decals
he says it works pretty well though, and he has been doing models for like 15 years now..
I would go with cheradines method. Cut a slice out of the transfer between the arms of the "U". This allows it to bend around the curve more easily. I also use a paint brush to lift it from the paper to the model. If the transfer splits or tears because of the slice while you are manouvering(cant remember how to spell it) on the model, try placing it on the pad first and then using a scalpel blade to slice it afterwards (this is what i have to do).
what about dark angels. it's not that easy, or black templars, or ther annoying large transfers
Last edited by vulcan raven; November 9th, 2005 at 07:00.
Ok fellows we have a difficult task, so we have to be more deadly than everyday.
Make mistakes and confuse the enemy - The Doctor
Tactics are nice but it is violence that wins the day.
As badly as they might come oput i nthe beginning, painting them yourself is the best solution (unless you got that special transfer stuff already mentioned). And same as always; practice makes perfect. I make all my decals freehand, and in the beginning they really sucked. now they look ok, and they don't look as 'fake' as those transfers. An idea here is to draw the decal on before painting, using a soft pencil.
"I have died a thousand deaths, and I will die a million more..."
if a txfer does not allow you to cut a strip in the top out then:
First rule- try and minimise the amount of clear txfer material on the edge of the decal - i do this by scoring it with a craft knife.
seconf, cut a vertical slit, again by scoring with a craft knife, in the top, this will allow the top part of ofthe txfer to slightly overlap, making the whole txfer ever so slightly conical - fitting much better to a shoulder pad. You need to be careful doing this, and I occasionally have to go back over with paint, but it is less fiddly than painting an icon which you have a decal for
I used solv-o-set, but it didn't really help too much. I just slit the middle of the U, and that helped a lot. Later I kinda pricked at it to make it less weird-looking.