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I've gone through 213 posts on this site, and haven't been able to find one about assembling an Exorcist. Even a Google search doesn't come up with anything other than Exorcist conversions. The kit doesn't come with instructions either.
So, knowing that several people here have built the Exorcist (GW version), I am looking for assembly tips. I don't need step by step - most of the parts are pretty obvious where they fit - but suggestions/tips on things to do or pitfalls to avoid would be greatly appreciated.
When I finally finish the model, I plan on making the instructions available here at LO for future creators. Any help is greatly appreciated!
Originally Posted by Montford981
Make sure that the base for the organs fits nicely over the back of the Immolator platform - I had to file mine a bit to make it flat and leveled.
It might be a good idea to put something inside the rear of Rhino chasis so that the metal "bowl" with the loader figure will be supported from underneath (it is assembled to the underside of the Immolator platform).
The most tricky part for me was the front part - with the organ player. Not easy to get all the parts to allign at the same time...
And of course glue the player and loader figures last, after you painted them separately...
My second Exorcist will be a converted Whirlwind with Immolator platfrom and Exorcist "armor plates" all around - much easier to work with plastic...
The thing about metal is that they are covered in the white powdered stuff. It is best to wash the metal before you start gluing. Also it is a good idea to slot the peices in place to see roughly how they fit and if anything needs to done to them. Ideally try to clip all the extra splinters and mis-castings, as even a small nub can dislodge that certain area of the model. Not too much supeglue as it can cover some of the detail and riun it when it comes to painting. The new superglue brush thing GW has released is good.
Smok has covered a lot of it,
I paint mine part assembled,, basically, assemble the rhino with the loaders tray (I had no problems with mine but I used acres of super glue) and the top plastic bit from the imolator (didnt oput tracks on yet)
Then, before painting, as smok pointed out, you need to check the organ base fits, I too has to trim to get it to foit properly although I trimmed the plastic (easier). Then added the organ base and painted the lot, including the organ which I then added.
Then the front cupola (the organists one) which as smok again pointed out, is a ***** to get to fit together snugly - did mine with the aid of miliput superfine.
Then painted and added that, then finally painted the loader and organist and addd them and then added the ammo store
In summary the tricky bits are adding the (metal) organ base to the top (plastic) which always seems to need trimming, and assembling the organists cupola which doent fit together well
Everything you have been told is a lie!
I actually found my exorcist easy to put together although i was dreading it... what with all the metal bits and stuff... but it was ok i didnt glue the tracks on yet (i left them on the sprue and have sprayed and drybrushed and ink them seperatly) because IMO the boltgun metal always seems to go onto the vehicle... and it ends up a little messy :rolleyes:
I didnt stick the side armour plates on tho.. just the front plate. the 4 side plates where put on my whirlwind (i bought a whirlwind and an exorcist together) which bulks it out abit...
busy painting them both (and a rhino) at the moment (painted black and red (pretty easy colour scheme too)) and aside from the hidious looking ammounts of gold on the damn things they look quite nice so far
:w00t: :w00t: :w00t: EXORCISTS FOREVER! :w00t: :w00t: :w00t:
-SONS of RUSS member-
Exiled until 5thED redo...
Hey Crucial,I had the same problem with my two exorcists. Actually it's the metal which is a little bit to narrow to lay nicely on the plastic rhino. I resolved this issue by bending (gently) the metal base, gaining 1mm of width to lay it correctly on the plastic.Originally Posted by SmokWawelski
The metal plates on the side and front are easy to put, but they tend to fall down (one or two at each transport) => could be a good idea to strenghen them.
I also drilled holes (sorry don't know the name in english for french *contre-percage") in the pipes to make them stand strongly on their metal base. One of my exorcist fell off table, the whole pipe system stayed in one peice, thank's to that.
Last thing: make your dices rest on the "1" side, so the "6" side will be fresh when you will roll for "how many shots are firing my exorcist"?
I believe that may be called pinning?Originally Posted by Noctus
Thank you to everyone that has contributed here... I'm well on my way to getting the article done. Keep the suggestions coming though!
Originally Posted by Montford981
(I realize this is digging up an aging thread, but it makes more sense here.)
OK, I have the first draft of my Exorcist Assembly document done, and pictures are forthcoming. Please, if you would, take some time to read the instructions below and let me know if anything needs more explanation/doesn't sound right/etc. Once the pics are available, I will link to a picture heavy version somewhere outside LO, and then submit it for inclusion with other articles here at LO. Thank you in advance for your time.
Supplies I used:
small metal files
primer, paints, etc
These instructions assume that you have already assembled and painted the Immolator body.
1. Remove all of the metal tabs and vent/mold lines from the metal pieces. Using the files, try to get every mating surface (areas that touch flat to other pieces) as smooth as possible. The only exceptions should be:
- the bottoms of the organ pipes
- under both the organist and the loader
Those "bumps" will be needed to get the pieces in the correct orientation during assembly.
2. After cleaning up all the metal flash, wash the metal pieces in warm soapy water. The metal is coated with a powder that allows it to release from the mold - this will cause trouble with glue and paint later, and needs to be cleaned off now. Rinse well, and let set overnight to be sure that it is completely dry.
3. Check the fit of all the pieces a second time. Use the files to clean up any uneven spots.
4. Place the pipe base on top of the Immolator, and check for an even fit across the back of the tank. I had to stretch my pipe base by slowly pulling it apart about one millimeter to get it to fit correctly.
5. Glue the hands to the organist. Also glue the arm to the loader. Set these aside, as they are much easier to paint when not connected to their bases.
6. The hardest part of putting the organ cupola together is the keyboard. The keyboard does not slip easily into the slots on the sides of the cupola. To make it easier to paint, I used two thin strips of green stuff on both sides of the keyboard, and pressed the sides of the cupola onto the keyboard. Using the base of the cupola as a guide, I set the sides and keyboard on the base to harden. Otherwise, the green stuff may not set right, and the alignment of the sides would not be correct.
7. I also added pins to the bottom of the organ pipes. Using the existing alignment bumps as a guide, I drilled 5 mm deep holes into the bottom of the pipes, and glued 10mm wire pins into place. This should help the glue keep everything together if it should fall over.
8. Next, I sprayed primer on all of my parts, making sure to get even coverage. Specifically, I intend to paint the pipes unassembled from the rest of the base, and assemble that portion afterward.
9. After painting the parts of the organ pipe assembly, glue the pipes to the base. In this case, once the glue dries, bend the pins to sit flush against the underside of the base. This will help secure each section to the base itself. Another option is to use green stuff to hold those pins in place. Once the green stuff dries hard, you shouldn't be able to move the pipes at all.
10. The organ cupola was painted in three separate parts: the base and missile rack, then the keyboard/cupola sides combo, then the front. Only after finishing painting all three parts were they glued together.
11. Glue the loader tray into place in the back of the Immolator body. I used a 25mm tall strip of plasticard shaped in a cross to support the tray.
(Note: If you don't plan on opening the back of the tank for any reason, you can leave it there permanently. If you do plan on opening it, I would place the support until the glue has had time to dry thoroughly (24 hours) before removing it. At this point, only about 4mm will show through the door, so it should not be an issue.)
12. Glue the organist and loader in their respective places, being sure that the alignment bumps are in the right place.
13. Paint the armor plates, and glue them into place. It may take quite a bit of glue to get them to stay. Another option is to glue pins into the back of the plates, and pin them to the body. However, this would have to be done before the Immy is assembled so that the pins can be bent to secure the plates to the body.
Now, go release the Emperor's Vengeance on those heretical enemies!
SK mate, I would recomend putting this as an article
Everything you have been told is a lie!
I found that the armour plates fitted much more easily if you just trimmed off the little plastic rivets on the rhino walls.
The armour fits better and so, the glue holds better.
Cervantes: In order to attain the impossible, one must attempt the absurd.