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So I've had 3 PE's sitting in various states of completion on my table for a couple months now. There are the obvious joys of metal on metal construction. The issue in building it, other than its overall weight, is the front-loaded balance of the model on the hip. Is there anything particularly effective at keeping the body upright beyond maybe greenstuff? Second, can the arms be supported with pairs of 6mm x 1.5mm NIB magnets?
Although I can't find it I know there was a thread in the conversion forum on this topic. The suggested ideas for putting together a penitent engine are to use a mix of a dremmel, greenstuff and the wicked good superglue. I can't remember specifics its been a few days since I looked at the thread.
Legion Of Everblight: Abyslonia
Protectorate of Menoth: Grand Exemplar Kreoss
IIRC they have studs on the bottoms of their feet. I drilled holes in the base to help they stand steady.
I do not remember if I needed to pin the legs or not. I don't think I did.
"The sword that takes life gives life."
Hmmm.... I used 5 pins total, 2 for the legs-feet (that go all the way into the bases), 2 for the arms-torso, and one big one for the torso-hip connection. Seem to hold OK so far...
I, too had some trouble putting together my PE's...the kept falling apart on me!! I asked a friend about his PE's and he said pinning (as other people said here) was a good choice, and he also suggested Zap-a-gap superglue. I put that on my PE the last time I had to reassemble (without pins) and it's been holding up great.
My step-by-step process for assembling penitent engines
(I just put together a bunch of them recently, and this is how I assembled the easiest of them)
1) Glue the torso together (The engine piece, and were the penitent is mounted), but do not attach the penitent (yet)
2) Drill a hole in the shoulder joint plates where you plan on attaching the arm, then glue the plates to the torso.
3) Attach the penitent
4) Pit the hip joint to the pentitent torso
5) Dry-fit the legs. Dry fit the legs. Dry fit the legs. Both of them
6) Take the forward leg (the one that most of the weight will be on) and pin the forward foot to the base.
7) Pin the forward leg in place to the foot (and or through the foot and directly into the base.)
Holding the model in place, dry-fit the second leg. And glue the foot of hte second leg in place.
9) Place a small amount of greenstuff into the hole on the first leg, and press the peg from the hip through. Apply a small amount of superglue. The greenstuff fills the gap, and hte superglue will hold it while the GS cures
10) Place a small amount of GS on the second leg, and a drop of glue in the foot. Press the leg into place in the foot and slide the upper leg onto the hip join.
11) Allow the green stuff to cure.
12) Drill a hole in the arms, and insert a pin.
13) Insert pinned arm into pinhole in shoulder socket. If aligned properly, it should fit snugly. Repeat for second arm.
Once the GS cures, it makes it less likely for the penitent engine to tip forward at the hip join than with super glue. If you have them leaning too far forward (an issue I had), take an ammo crate from the battlefield accessoris sprue, fill it with nickels and glue them in place. Add the crate lid, and you have a wonderful counterbalance. (Or, you can pose a penitent engine arm down so that it provides a point of balance. But I don't like the way that looks personally)
I hope this helps.
* "I'm Significant!" -screamed the dust speck
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