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  1. #1
    Member panzerjeager's Avatar
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    Casting Plaster/Resin/Molds

    Does anybody have any experience with using molds or casting in general. I have seen plenty of scenery builders use plaster bricks in fantasy and similar things, but is there a resin that will fill detail enough to cast spare parts (for personal use only, evidently)?

    I have seen a few companies, but I do not know what is the most efficient for fine details and what resin grades will accept acryllic paints.

    I haved used plenty of plaster and grit-plaster with scenary, but not forming bricks or structure, yet.

    Hirst Arts puts out some pretty nice scenary and brick molds, so I will try that first. I have had a lot of people suggest Alumilite, but I am skeptical about its ability to fill minor detail without using a vac-bucket (lotta money).

    *Fart* "Keep talking sir, we'll find you!"

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  3. #2
    LO Zealot XenomarinesKiller's Avatar
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    i wonder the same thing. are you looking for something that is good for casting models, or larger scenery pieces? i am looking for something that is good enough to cast stuff to GW quality, so i don't look like an idiot when i show up with some sweet, but horribly cast custom stuff. bad situation i hope never to encounter.

    so, in an overview, i am looking for a mold compound and liquid plastic/resin.

    i am sorry for hijacking the post, but it was an attempt to get more to post so they will jump on the bandwagon and help. i know someone has cast stuff here, but they wish not to show they're face! show yourself!!!!!
    Last edited by XenomarinesKiller; June 27th, 2006 at 22:28.


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  4. #3
    Member panzerjeager's Avatar
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    The Alumilite company seems to hold the most potential for detail work, I have a kit coming from them next week, so I will try that first. I suspect the fine detail will require some shaving and will have an excess of flash like FW stuff has.

    -Check this out : http://www.smooth-on.com/foams.htm - rigid styrofoam that can be pourn into a mold. Great idea for base structures! They also have resins, but once again I still can't tell if it will fill tiny detail.
    Last edited by panzerjeager; June 27th, 2006 at 22:47.
    *Fart* "Keep talking sir, we'll find you!"

  5. #4
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    If you are in the UK things are a little limited in product ranges

    www.notcutt.co.uk

    stock modsil products, silicone RTV s and Urethane Resins amongst others at good prices and with quick delivery and they are happy to give advise over the phone. All product ratios are mixed by weight.

    www.micromark.com
    have a product call One 2 One Rapid, awsome 2 part Silicone RTV that mixes by volume just poor eaqual amounts of each part and mix...idiot proof, but remember to use rubber to rubber mold release as silicone has this wounderfull property where as it weld to itself sealing your original inside.

    They also stock 2 cool resins which mix in the exact same way CR300 and CR600 remeber to use resin to rubber mold release, helps things pop out with out damaging the mold.

    BUT REMEMBER. WHEN ORDERING CHEMICALS FROM OUTSIDE THE UK CUSTOMS AND EXCISE WILL CHARGE YOR COURIER A HANDELING FEE, YOU WILL RECIEVE A LETTER INSTRUCTING YOU TO PAY THIS BEFORE THE DELIVERY CAN BE MADE ( I ordered one 2 one, cr-600, mold release and specialst masking tape and was charged £30 ish..ouch!)

    has some cracking little how to.. videos and nice looking molds:

    http://www.hirstarts.com/video/video.html
    http://www.hirstarts.com/sculpt/sculpting.html
    http://www.hirstarts.com/moldmake/moldmaking.html

    hope this helps...Cheers Matt

  6. #5
    Still kickin' Troszkowsky's Avatar
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    Smooth-On (mentioned above) carries a two-part latex rubber that works well with the Hirst Arts blocks. I have made several custom molds from cast blocks, in an attempt to group my most commonly-used pieces, and the stuff works great. OOMOO 30 is what I use. It uses equal parts of part 1 and part 2 without needing to weigh each part.

    -Troszkowsky

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    Been casting for some time.
    The micromark stuff is good, Smooth-on is their supplier. Your better off getting it right from them. Much cheaper.

    Anyway, the Oomoo series works well, its viscosity is low so it general gets all the detail with next to no air bubbles. Note on rubber, go with silicone. Avoid polyurethane, its note worth the hassle. Also, use talcing powder, it forms a thin layer between resin and mold that last long enough for the resin to spread without trapping air.

    As for resin, CR300/600 from smooth on is great. Its low viscosity so it captures detail nicely. I've used the Micromark Cr300 also, its identical to the Smooth-on stuff.

    One quick note, if your planning on recasting mini's for personal use, its not worth the effort. The resin and the rubber isn't cheap, by the time you invest into the materials and time to recast the mini, its probally gonna cost you more then just buying another mini. Scratch building something and recasting though is a different matter. Forgeworld stuff though is another issue.....:x Oh yeah, and another note. This one is iffy because of copyright laws and whatnot, personal use and all that. Its probably illegal.

    Also, be prepared to have a high defect rate until you get good at it. Oh, and if you treat the molds well and don't abuse them, you'll prob. get about 20 pulls before they fall apart. Its an issue with the softness of the rubber.....it needs to be soft to get the details but that makes it weaker. viscosity on the harder stuff is usually to high


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    Last edited by tf001; August 5th, 2006 at 00:31.

  8. #7
    Member Thumper's Avatar
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    I can explain how to do it detail, both metals and plastics .. it depends on what your intentions are?

  9. #8
    Senior Member Luminaru's Avatar
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    Does anyone know the program and mold people now use to do suclpting? Scibor does it and now so does GW

    -Doom

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