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He came he dipped, it was a mess....
Hi, new Tyranid player here trying the quick and easy way to a good looking army by heavily applying minwax antique walnut to my mini. Unfortunately no one told me how quickly the stuff becomes tacky (takes forever to actually dry) and how it will pool brown goo to the lowest part of the model. Now I have a pretty messy, tacky fig. Did I mention that my regular paint remover (I used grease remover) does nothing to this stuff?
Any advice on how to apply minwax dip neatly, and how best to strip it (luckily this is a metal fig, but i will be trying this approach on plastic soon.)
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
P.S. Yes I am actually painting the dip on not literally dipping the fig.
Last edited by russellt; July 25th, 2007 at 15:57.
Sorry to hear about your bad experience.
Firstly I would try acetone. It is found in nail polish removers at walmart and is known to be able to break down most synthetic materials. Since your mini is metal, you won't be harming it any by sticking it into a vat of acetone. Try to get the 100% non scent kind. However since minwax is an oil based stain, I'm not 100% sure acetone would work.
You can also try oven cleaner which is good for getting out oil stains and I'm pretty sure it won't harm your metal minis.
Now on to "dipping" your models.
Do it if you don't really care about how your minis look or what other people think.
Don't do it if you actually want to improve your painting skills. I know there was a guy who posted pics of his dipped tyranid warriors a few weeks ago on these forums. He got some positive feedback from the community but let me assure you that many people on these forums tend to be overly nice when it comes to criticizing other people's work.
These are the facts about dipped minis:
1) an experienced painter can always tell when a model has been dipped
2) dipped models look like shit to those who have an eye for nicely painted figs.
If you want to be a good painter, start at the bottom and work your way up. paint diligently without resorting to lazy techniques. Sure your first couple of minis might look like crap, but by the time you are nearing finish of your army, you will notice improvement in your painting skills. And let me tell you...... the feeling of improvement in your painting skills is a great feeling.
Please don't dip anymore (yes this includes painting on the dip which basically gives the model the same look as real dipping).
I don't what to use to remove the Minwax. The first thought that came to mind was to use the solvent that you use to dilute your "dip", mineral spirits. But that doesn't sound like it would work without rigorous effort.
But, I do have a couple of suggestions for the dipping process.
- If you find that you're getting a lot of "pooling", dilute your dip more. If, after you let it dry for 2 days, you want it darker, you can always do a second dipping. Start thin.
- Use a dip and spin method, you get a more even distribution. That is, no brush marks, bubbles, or pools. I literally spot-glued roofing nails (they have large heads) to the bottom of my models. Among the primary purposes of doing this (mass priming and base coating and a nice handle for painting detail) it allows me to mount the model on my electric drill, dip it, and spin off the excess.
Karmoon: "well.. any kore = good kore" 12:35pm PST 23 May 2007
Diabolus fecit, ut id facerem!
plus if you use these hairbrained 'time saving' schemes you miss out on the sense of achievemnt a well painted army can bring! Ive never painted tyranids but if i was going to try and paint a lot of them quickly id either use a lot of drybrushing or ink washes (probably drybrushing as i dont really like the finish inks give you) using a production line method
PLAN CLAN MAN!!
He who makes a beast of himself gets rid of the pain of being a man- S. Johnson
I would play a dipped army over primed army any day... And where I play, over half of the armies are "Yeah, only primed, I am working on painting them" armies and stay like that forever...
Supraboytt - Saying that dipped armies are something less than other ones is IMHO not fair. Not everyone is here to become the next Picasso, and as you can see from the first post, dipping also takes some skill!
Last edited by SmokWawelski; July 25th, 2007 at 18:30.
I am by no means an experienced painter, so take what I'm about to say with a huge grain of salt...
I think it is unfair to universally bash the technique of dipping. Dipping, like drybrushing, or washing, is one of many techniques that one can employ to acheive a desired effect. I have seen dipped armies look REALLY good.
However, they dipped because that was how to achieve the effect they wanted, not as some short-cut method to paint a whole army in 1/4 the time. ANY method used like this will give you an army that looks 1/4 as good.
I've done a handful of dipping projects over the years.
I only dip when 2 things occur:
1. The army is of a color scheme that CAN be appropriately dipped. Examples of this would be a Kraken-esque tyranid army, Kroot in a brownish theme......and zombies.
2. You need the army done.........yesterday. (
A recent example would be a 1250 Vampire count, Zombie horde I needed to do a few weeks ago. (100 zombies and 10 skeletons........in 3 days)
The most important step in the dipping process that many tend to forget about, or slack off on, is SHAKING OFF THE EXCESS.
When you improperly shake out the dipped model, pooling is inevitable, on larger models this is an obvious issue, since shaking them vigorously can cause the model to come off the base or parts to break off. In cases like that instead of dipping the model, WASH IT, with a suitable mix of brown ink or flesh wash. Many tyranid models require this, whereas the gaunts can be easily dipped.
When a dipped model gets over-dipped, with excess and pooling everywhere. You can try:
1. cleaning it, though I don't recommend that on a plastic model as many cleaners can do as much harm as good to the plastic.
2. The other option being to dry-brush the bejesus out of it with a base color (bleached bone maybe) to bring all those details back out and begin to paint the model from there by hand.
Usually a mix of those 2 (minor cleaning with a heavy base dry-brushing) can save an over dipped model. But, do be careful.
Many hard-core or devoted painters tend to frown on dipping, ignore them. People can use whatever techniques they want to produce a finished army. Though I may never dip my own armies, I'll gladly resort to dipping when a friend requests an army in a hurry (as long as they are happy with the results).
Also, a dipped model isn't beyond some good touch up later, quite the opposite. Dipped models can be touched up later just like everything else.
Good luck with your models.
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This thread is not about the attitudes of members on LO towards painting OR whether or not dipping is a good method of painting. If you want to discuss these subjects the please, start a new thread; not steal some one else's.
Back to the question posted by the first author please.