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Has anyone else found that the so called 'super glue' made by Citadel isn't even close to as good as the stuff made by, say, Elmers and available in most drug stores?
I wash and file the metal bits, but find that the damn glue takes a million years to bind and still doesn't seem to want to hold as well as might be expected. For a while I was one of those 'more is better' types and had someone explain the benefits of using less. I also had someone teach me to blow on the glue a bit to get it tacky before actually joining the pieces. Despite all of this, it seems to take a long time to bind and sometimes, after it falls apart the next day, here I am am super gluing it again.
It's a pain. But it really works. It's totalyl the long term option.
Also.. do it enough, force yourself to do it enough, and it becomes second nature.
All the cool kids pin, and your models will enjoy it when you drill into their faces with a pin vice.
LO RulesOriginally Posted by AnonymousOriginally Posted by Cyric
I found pinning is particularly useful for small items that may be knocked off. For example, I was following a suggestion in WD with the empire general kit by turning around the great sword for the standing general. That meant cutting off sword and pommel to turn it around. Of course, when I stuck it back together, it kept falling apart. Solution - pinning. The item was small and very narrow (slicghtly bigger than the drill bit) but by pinning it it made a fantastic bond.
So tip 1. - Go out and buy a pin vice. I don't know about the rest of the world but in Oz GW (for once) actually sold pin vices cheaper than other places.
Tip 2. Other items (such as glue and paint) can be found elsewhere for less and often of a better quality, so stop using GW glue.
Diabolus fecit, ut id facerem!
Superglue shouldn't take that long to dry.
One thing to know is the cyanoacrylate won't bond to cyanoacrylate. In other words, if you get some super glue on a piece, have trouble getting it to stick, the super glue dries, and you then apply more super glue to that same surface, the new stuff won't bond to the dried stuff, not very well if at all.
If this is a problem, file or sand away the old glue, or use that super glue remover called unglue (just don't get it on plastic! metal only for this stuff!). I forget the brand name, and apparently I've thrown mine away during the move. Once the old glue is off, start over with new.
For big metal pieces, I use two part epoxy. It's super strong once it's set, but it takes five minutes to do so. This means you won't want to do it for a unit of, say, 15 troops. It would obviously take a long, long time. But for single models, like a Treeman or some big tank thingy (I don't play 40K, sorry), it's worth it.
Yeah, pinning rules. Karmoon is right, it becomes second nature. Just be careful. If you're a bit dense like me, it'll take 4 or 5 puncture wounds before you consider safety first. Never force anything, finesse it.
Karmoon: "well.. any kore = good kore" 12:35pm PST 23 May 2007
(God I'm full of it this morning! I had minor surgery and am still on pain killers! :yes:Now if I get in trouble for saying that then I didn't really say it!)