Painting Squad Markings (for Space Marines) - Warhammer 40K Fantasy
 

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  1. #1
    Knight-Champion chrispcarter's Avatar
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    339 (x8)

    Painting Squad Markings (for Space Marines)

    Hi all,

    First off, apologies if this topic has been raised, I did do a search but couldn't find anything relevant. Anyway, down to business:

    I'm an Ultramarine player of some 12 years, though until recently painting has kind of taken a back seat with me. I've been getting a lot better, but I still have a long way to go.

    Because of this, I now have miniatures painted to a gaming standard, and all I have left to do with a lot of them is apply the squad and chapter markings.

    For the chapter symbol I've used the decals - I found a brilliant tip on the net (exactly where I cannot recall) about cutting from the center of the decal to the bottom and folding it together, which has worked awesomely. So I'm happy with that.

    However, the squad markings (mostly tactical is what I've been trying) is just hopeless with the decals - they are too flat and too straight. They just will NOT go on the shoulderpad (lament of many marine painters I'm sure).

    To this end, I've decided to do them freehand with Skull White and a whole lot of concentration, then use decals for the squad numbers only. I've tried a couple out, and the results are... passable, but I think they could be better. I was just wondering if anyone had any tips on how to achieve the best results.

    So far lessons learned include:
    • When the symbol needs to come to a point, the brush stroke need to be away from the point, not towards it.
    • 1 coat of white is okay for a "line" but a filled area may need a couple for it to look bright enough (at least against the Ultramarine blue on the pad).
    • Getting it right first time is hugely preferable, because if I start correcting with UM Blue then doing Skull White again I'll be at it forever (and end up with about 25 coats of paint on the pad).
    • My hands shake more during detail painting than they would if I was working a pneumatic drill. I think the only solution to this would be diazepam.
    • Whenever I'm not paying attention an errant bristle will part from the brush and make a scrawl mark outside of the symbol I'm trying to paint so conentration is crucial.
    • after every completed like, brush should be wiped and fresh paint applied to make sure the boldness of the marks remains consistent.

    Anything anyone can add to this would be helpful (other than 'practice' - that goes without saying, I hope)!


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  3. #2
    A Freaking Ninja! maraschino's Avatar
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    91 (x1)

    lightlywet your shoulderpad, cut your transfer, wet it, use a paintbrush and slide it onto the model

    if you want to do freehand, rest your elbows on the table, if youre holding the model in one hand and paintbrush in the other, rest your palms together like a pivot

    do you have any examples of your shoulderpads?

  4. #3
    Knight-Champion chrispcarter's Avatar
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    339 (x8)

    thanks for your comments maraschino.

    For the transfers, I can get them to work alright, it's just getting the larger transfers to lie on the shoulder pad surface I've been having trouble with! Appreciate the tips though.

    I will also try resting my elbows braced against my desk, not sure what you mean by resting the hands together though!

    I'm at the office at the minute (should probably be doing some work, hehe) but if I remember I will try to upload some pics somehow when I get home.

  5. #4
    A Freaking Ninja! maraschino's Avatar
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    resting your hands is hard to explain, but if you hold your model in one hand and paintbrush in the other any movement from your painting hand will be exactly the same on both hands so cancelling themselves out.

  6. #5
    Knight-Champion chrispcarter's Avatar
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    339 (x8)

    Ahhh I think I know what you mean now, keep the hands braced against each other (presumably at the base of the palm) so that only the movement of the fingers makes any difference! I will give this a try, thanks

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