Dire Avengers - Tutorial - Warhammer 40K Fantasy

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Dire Avengers - Tutorial

    Some of you have already seen dire avengers I`ve painted some time ago, but few know there came article written for one of the polish websites that came with them. I thought it would be cool to translate it into English so you can use it as well . So here it goes...
    I was quite excited when I got these models (I`m quite lucky as I can decide which minis I`ll paint here at Leprechaun Studio ). Eldar range has plenty of great minis, ideal to show that great effect can be achieved with relatively easy techniques. With this in mind I`ve started the project.

    As usual I had to start with the cutting the parts from the frames, glueing and cleaning the mold lines. It`s good to be patient and precise at this point - any mistakes made now will turn to be real pain in the a.. during painting.
    I`ve used glue for plastics - it melts the plastic and make really strong bond. I left the arms separate as they`ll make later work a tad more difficult.
    I`ve sprayed all the parts black and then gently dusted them with white spray from above. It makes the details more clearly visible and colours more vibrant.

    The armour was covered with VGC Ultramarines Blue. To speed the basecoating process up I`ve used airbrush. Normal brush will do too - it will only take more time. Make sure that the coat is flat and even with no primer showing through.
    When this was dry I mixed VGC Black Ink with waterd and washed the whole surface. It`s one of the more difficult moments. You have to be sure to have correct amount of ink on the brush. If it flows in uncontrolled manner, pools creating huge drops it means you have too much. Not enough is bad too - it won`t flow into recesses.
    To make this easier direct ink toward recesses with long, straight brushstrokes.
    Remember that the model should still be blue after washing, only darker, with visibly shaded cracks and deeper areas. It`s one of the reasons of mixing the ink with water - pure ink would be too strong resulting in black model .
    Don`t worry if something goes wrong though - there will plenty of opportunities to fix mistakes next stage which is highlighting with VGC Ultramarines Blue. I covered all the plates with it.
    It`s good time to glue the arms.
    I`ve mixed Ultramarines Blue with VGC Wolves Grey in about 3:5 ratio. I`ve used this mix to highlight all the edges. The key to success is getting nice, straight lines. They`ll nicely pick up the contours. Its not that difficult as you might think. In most of the areas you don`t have to (and to be hones you shouldn`t) use the point of the brush. It`s easier and better to put the side of the brush on the edge (45-50 angle should be best) and move it on the whole edge.
    I`ve added more VGC Wolves Grey and made further highlights in places when 2 (or more) edges meet.

    Most people moan that white is a real pain to paint. It`s not that hard after a practice and good approach. I`ve covered helmet and robes with VGC Wolves Grey first. It`s relatively good base colour for cold white as it covers nicely. Once again make sure that primer is not showing through this coat. Then I`ve applied Skull White pulling the paint towards forehead and towards raised areas. Also I`ve highlighted the edges. This stage needs a coupl eof coats and some patience.
    To accentuate the "ceramic" feel I`ve carefully shaded recesses with Shadow Grey mixed with VGC Glaze Medium.

    Usually I do metallics earlier - working on them tends to be messy. But this time I left them for later stages as there are very few metallic areas on Eldar.
    Steel parts were covered with Citadel Boltgun Metal first. Quick note - while I water paints quite much I leave Boltgun a tad thicker. It`s easier to get nice shiny surface with it this way.
    Then I washed them with black ink. When the ink was dry I`ve glazed the shaded areas with extremely diluted Citadel Scorche Brown. It gives much nicer feel and makes those areas matte.
    The highlights were picked up with diluted mithril silver. Edges first then areas than IMO are most exposed to light.
    Gold was made with brazen brass, washed with chestnut ink and highlighted with shining gold and finally with shining gold/mithril silver mix.

    GEMS and EYES
    It`s something that has huge impact on the overall effect and in fact it`s quite easy to do! First I`ve covered them with black. Next I`ve covered 3/4 of their area (counting from the bottom) with Liche Purple. You should leave some black on top of each gemstone. 1/2 was painted with Warlock Purple. The bottom was further highlighted with Tentacle Pink. Finally I`ve put white dots that imitate light reflections on top. Vertically orientated gemstones need just one dot to look good while horizontal ones need two.

    I`ve decided to paint parts such as weapons and searchlights black. Then I`ve picked up the edges with Codex Grey and Wolves Grey.

    I`ve used VGC Sunblast Yellow mixed with Snakebite Leather as a base for yellow. The highlights were made with pure Sunblast Yellow and VMC Golden Yellow (it`s different colour from citadel golden yellow - it`s very light, warm yellow). Black parts were made as above.
    If you don`t want to carefully work on each strand of hair you can drybrush those. Note that if you choose this method you shoudl do it in the very beggining as drybrushing is messy.

    Decals was the final touch. I`ve often heard that they look bad, do not stick to the surface and look bad. There`s one secret to their application - decal fluids. They soften the decals, so they set on the surface nicely and made them adhere better. Personally I use Micro Sol.

    That`s it - after making bases and varnishing models they wre ready to field .

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  3. #2
    Sadomachiatto Karmoon's Avatar
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    May 2006
    Frankfurt, Germany
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    790 (x8)

    Well done.
    Thanks for sharing.
    LO Rules

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  4. #3
    KITTENS GIVE MORBO GAS! theyak's Avatar
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    Feb 2006
    Bay Area, California, USA
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    385 (x8)

    Awesome, well done, and wouldn't you know it! I'm working on my DA currently. I'll let you know how they turn out!..
    thanks for sharing!
    W/D/L Eleventy trillion billion/NONE/ NONE - I am STILL rulezor!

  5. #4
    Painting Machine! Tekore's Avatar
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    Sep 2007
    Tale of Painterville
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    542 (x8)

    Wow, those are well done, firstly, and secondly that's a really great explanation of how it was done, one that I'm copying for general use to my computer. Thanks so much, and have some rep.


  6. #5
    Member Tarok's Avatar
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    Jul 2007
    Aboard the Flying Dutchman off the Cape of Storms
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    Terrific SBS! Thanks! I've been looking for a decent way to paint blues for a bit now. ;Y;Y

    Tarok :C

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