Welcome to Librarium Online!
Join our community of 80,000+ members and take part in the number one resource for Warhammer and Warhammer 40K discussion!
Registering gives you full access to take part in discussions, upload pictures, contact other members and search everything!
I just thought I would share a method that I have tried with success. After some of my metal minis got all silvery on sharp edges because the primer+paint had been chipped, I decided to try something.
When I do metal minis, before priming, I "paint" them using an acid based "Rust Eater" product. It is a product used for car bodywork repairs, basically its just a diluted acid in a gel/slime matrix, available at petrol stations (at least in Sweden). I leave the rust eater on for a few minutes, after that I rinse the whole model under my kitchen tap for a while, making sure that all the rust-eater is rinsed away. I leave the model to dry overnight, and then I prime it.
I have noticed that this method produces a primer layer that is much more resilient and scratch resistant, than if the model is primed normally. I use it for all of my metal models, you should try it!
Wow, I'm so going to try this, nothing worse than the primer running off the metal.
I'm not sure if this helps any but metal figures can be particularly bad with residue left on them.
I never prime or paint a metal figure without first washing it in dish solution and water. That might assist in the problem for those who don't want to use rust remover.
Great tip. Thanks.
I agree with Ferrel though. It's always a good idea to wash metal (and resin) parts prior to priming.
Another way making the primer 'bind' to the metal is to heat the metal under a lamp or with a hairdryer immediately before priming. Be careful when picking up the piece though... it will be hot!!!!
Taroks thing with the lamp is really good too. I have used it together with the rust eater procedure when I didnt have time to wait a night. Its very important that the mini is completely dry before priming.
Washing is good too but the thing that I like about this rust eater/acid thing is that you do not have to scrub or use dishwashing brush. That way I can have have relative fragile things, like sand and barbed wire on the base, still being there after the procedure is finished. (I do all my basing before priming)
By the way, resin, dry greenstuff and plastic parts seem not to be degraded by the rust-eater.
My 2 cents. I wash all of my figures plastic or metal in warm to hot(to the touch, I can barely keep hands in it) water. and just a dab of soap.
The residue is moulding wax to allow the figure to come off the mould when they make it.
So heat and a little bit of detergent should do the trick to get it off.
W/D/L Eleventy trillion billion/NONE/ NONE - I am STILL rulezor!
WINDMILLS DO NOT WORK THAT WAY!
Handle the mini itself as little as possible. This will reduce the the chances of paint rubbing off and reduces the buildup of skin oils on the mini which can interfere with sucessive layers of paint sticking.
Hold it by either it's base, or by pins in it's feet.
And over there we have the labyrinth guards.
One always lies, one always tells the truth, and one stabs people who ask tricky questions.