How To Paint Tyranids In 5 Easy Steps (Tutorial) - Warhammer 40K Fantasy
 

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  1. #1
    Paintwater cup != tea mug catbarf's Avatar
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    How To Paint Tyranids In 5 Easy Steps (Tutorial)

    Well, this is a pretty simple tutorial. You start off with your choice of model, and prime it white.

    I didn't bother to take a picture of a primed model.

    Step 2: Dip it- I used Minwax Polyshades Antique Walnut Satin Finish. The trick here is to use something heavy, like a wrench. When you shake it, there is so much force that all the dip goes to one side of the model. So, you shake it twice, then switch sides, then shake again. Then you just switch and do a half-hearted flick, and it will be equalized. Picture below:

    http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...f/DSCN1315.jpg

    Step 3: Ink the carapace. I used a 2:1 mix of water to Vallejo Brown Ink- but really, any brown ink is the same. Result:

    http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...f/DSCN1316.jpg

    Step 4: Up close, it looks good. From a distance, it lacks contrast. So, another layer of the ink. And now we have:

    http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...f/DSCN1317.jpg

    Note that this model was originally used as an experiment. The exoskeleton is slightly darker than it should be.

    Step 5: Now, I paint all the details with Vallejo Model Color Smoke. This nifty little paint is basically just a black/brown mix, and isn't terribly important. Note that although this was applied 1:1 water:smoke, only one layer was used. This way it replaces the color on the model, without killing the highlights provided by the dipping. And the picture:

    http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...f/DSCN1318.jpg

    There ya go. Easy way to paint Tyranids. Just for S&G, I did a Carnifex as well:

    http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...f/DSCN1320.jpg

    And lastly, the obligatory workstation shot:

    http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l2...f/DSCN1319.jpg

    The box is just a shoebox with three of the sides cut out and tissue paper placed over the holes. The pics come out a little dark, but autocorrect in Picture Manager does wonders.

    All comments welcome, especially on photo quality.

    If you think Mathammer doesn't work and dice cannot be predicted, there's a whole field of mathematics called probability that would like to disagree.

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  3. #2
    Member socalghia's Avatar
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    first of all, BRAVO on the pictures and ur picture area, i salute you sir.

    And while no i am not an avid tyranid player, and to tell the truth i dont think i could ever be a nid player. Painting the little guys always peaked my interest.

    Now since i am an interesting painter and i take WAY too much time this is pretty interesting. I really do love the idea, i think the inking comes out a little to thick on certain points, but very VERY bearable. And i love how the first process seemingly takes care of drybrushing inking and base

    The final outcome could use a little more detail in my opinion, but then again that also depends on hive and whatnot. But in the end i love the idea, KUDOS MY FRIEND!
    Currently working on I.Repent, Part one of the Lost Astartes Story
    If anyone is interested let me know and i will share some unfinished product :)
    Also have a codex, and miniatures in the works

  4. #3
    Member Canuck's Avatar
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    It looks so simple! Great tutorial.

    The pictures look fine. What exactly are you dipping the models in on the second step?
    If only I good use this technique on my WH minis.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    I used to be superbock, if anyone cares.

  5. #4
    Junior Member Evil Nirvana's Avatar
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    Excellent job! I just don't like the color scheme its a little to boring. But thats my opinion. I could ner hope to paint anthing like that. I can't even paint a simple tactical Space Marine.
    "Give them nothing, Take from them everything! Nevermore!"-battle cry of the Ice Specters chapter.

  6. #5
    Lord of Purple Seasonreaper's Avatar
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    Simple yet effective. Now whilst im the kinda person who would spend HOURS doing something as simple as a gaunt, I can see many people dont have the patience or time to paint any of the horde armies, be it guard, orks or nid, and painting gaunts can be a very tedious task 8X. This gives those people something effective and simple to do, and would look really nice on a desert board! The only bad thing I can say is painting an army in such ways brings out mould lines, such as the hugely obvious one on your gaunts head =P

    Main Armies: The Septem Edo Hivefleets || Da Mekanikus of Mek Skagnatz || Clan Skrawlskir of the White Rat || The Eternal Legion of Chlorr

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    I hate to be horribly negative, so I'll start by saying that the finish product (while lacking in color diversity) looks really good. Unfortunately, I also have to agree with the above poster in saying that it very obviously brings out the modeling details of the mini, both in a good way, and in an unfortunate manner (such as bringing out the mold lines and minor imperfections in the plastic itself.

  8. #7
    Member D4RKN3SS's Avatar
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    I quite like them, and i dont play bugs at all. Thanks for taking the time to do the tut, very handy indeed.
    98% of the teen population has smoked weed, if you are the 2% that hasn't, and blindly believe everything you read on the net, then put this in your signature.

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    Member badmartialarts's Avatar
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    These look pretty good, looks like a solid way of painting a horde of the bugs. I wonder how a mahogany or cherry stain that is more reddish would look, with some Scab Red on the plates, or a teak stain (if teak stains exist!) and some yellow and green carapaces...

  10. #9
    Paintwater cup != tea mug catbarf's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments! Building the light tent was the best move I made, I can't believe how much of a difference it's made- and all I needed was a shoebox and some tissue paper. Now, on to questions:

    First off, the product I use is a polyurethane-based woodstain, sold in the U.S. at any Home Depot or the like by the company Minwax. Stay away from water-based stains- that's like an ink wash all over the model. What you want is a fluid that is semi-transparent but viscous. The effect is then easily explained- the recesses of the model are shaded heavily, the main areas are darkened slightly (it clings to the middle areas because of the high viscosity, but the transparency results in a less drastic effect than with paint), and finally the high areas are only slightly tinted. This way, it provides what looks like highlighting and shading.

    There's other products, in all different countries. Just look for one that's polyurethane-based, and preferably satin finish. It also pays to know what you're dipping- if you want bone or brown, then a brown dip is best over white or Bleached Bone. If you want greys or darker colors, a black stain is usually better. Of course, feel free to experiment.

    As for mold lines, I usually take the time to trim them, but in the interests of making the article I couldn't be bothered- especially since several were the crappy BfM Termies.

    Lastly, I just want to say that any color can work. One that I tested and found success with was a light blue spray, a black dip, and then a purple carapace wash. Of course, you can paint the carapace before dipping if you like- often works just as well if not better, although it does take a good bit longer.

    And here's a question of my own for you lot: Anyone got a good recipe for painting sand?
    If you think Mathammer doesn't work and dice cannot be predicted, there's a whole field of mathematics called probability that would like to disagree.

  11. #10
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    Painting sand in what respect? If you mean for basing, here's my suggestion
    Basecoat with Dark Flesh, and in subsequently lighter amounts of drybrushing, use Bestial Brown, Golden Yellow, and Finally sunburst yellow
    Last edited by Belsthar; November 6th, 2007 at 10:16.

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