Painting the Army of the Dead - Warhammer 40K Fantasy
 

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  1. #1
    Oberstleutnant Phormio's Avatar
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    Painting the Army of the Dead

    Hi there, I want to adopt the colour scheme/affect of the Army of the Dead from LoTR to other mini's except I have no idea how it's done!

    Here's a link so you know what I'mm talking about:

    http://oz.games-workshop.com/storefr...012&orignav=16

    Any suggestions on how to get this scheme would be greatly appreciated.

    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    http://godisimaginary.com/index.htm
    Diabolus fecit, ut id facerem!
    ANZAC Clan

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    Senior Member king88mob's Avatar
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    i actually just did something like that for one of my banshees, see http://www.librarium-online.com/foru...d.php?t=107095 (Feedback needed: Howling Banshee Scheme (WIP))

    the photos are garbage, but if that's more or less what you're looking for, then it's a fairly simple prospect:

    1) prime white
    2) give it a skull white basecoat (catch all the spots that you missed with the spray)
    3) hit it with a wash of green ink (i used future floor wax + green and blue ink, but for your look you'd want straight green i think)
    4) more washes as required...
    5) dry brush with a mix of green and white (about 5:1 white :vile green or something equally light)
    6) dry brush with straight white.
    7) paint details.

    I'd probably go for a darker wash to begin with (maybe water it down 3:1 water:ink rather then my usual 4:1) and see how that goes. you want it to stain the entire model, but really pool around the joints / details (that's what the future is for, but not entirely essential)

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    Oberstleutnant Phormio's Avatar
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    Thanks for that.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    http://godisimaginary.com/index.htm
    Diabolus fecit, ut id facerem!
    ANZAC Clan

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    Oberstleutnant Phormio's Avatar
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    Further to King88mob's email, I've done further research and gotten different answers.

    According to the "The One Ring" web site, this is how you should paint them:

    http://www.one-ring.co.uk/index.php?...icle&artid=329

    Not satisfied, I then emailed Games Workshop on the hobby email address. This is their reply:

    While the Heavy Metal Team of studio painters have some outstanding techniques and individual styles that can be difficult for us mere mortals to duplicate here’s how I would recommend you paint them to get pretty close (this gave pretty good results in the shop.



    The colours are (1-4) techniques are (a, b,c etc)…



    1) basecoat of Shadow Grey over a black undercoat.

    a. Drybrush the shadow grey over a black undercoat. Make sure the drybrush is smooth and even by using a large brush (large a tank brush) and make sure it is quite dry. Once you have an even coating over the model….

    2) Blend up mixes of Shadow Grey and Codex Grey – depending upon the subtly of layering you want you may want three or four blends moving towards pure Codex Grey and then

    a. Layer the mixes over the Shadow Grey, leaving the Shadow Grey showing in the sharp recesses and folds. Work up the folds and higher points with the lighter blends towards Codex Grey.

    b. Finally Drybrush lightly with a very dry Codex Grey – use a small or large drybrush rather than a tank brush – at this stage avoid any streaks of paint from too wet a brush and keep this to the flatter panels. Don’t cover all you blending – keep the effect light. Alternatively if you prefer the technique, layer on a smooth layer of codex grey like you did the blends – but don’t make it too solid.

    3) Highlight with Fortress Grey

    a. You can drybrush this (keeping it very dry and to the edges and ridges) for speed but I would layer it on using a watered down Fortress Grey, this will make the paint a bit translucent and then use a second highlight of the same Fortress Grey after the first has dried to intensify the highlights – making it slightly more solid on the highest points

    b. OPTIONAL: A final highlight of 75/25 Skull White/Fortress grey

    4) Finally wash with Dark Green Ink.

    a. Do this wash very dilute and to keep the effect subtle do three or four layers over the whole model, allowing each layer to dry. MAKE SURE you do not flood coat the model but apply it as a wet glaze.

    b. Once this has dried do three or four further coats working away from the panels into the recesses and shadows.

    c. You may want to do a further 3-4 coats into the darkest recesses to intensify the effect.

    d. NOTE: this technique takes several coats to show a visible difference – the more dilute and more glazes you do the better the effect will be. Some people mix a SMALL amount (drop) of either hardcoat or PVA glue into the wash to help the ink spread and prevent it drying back in water rings. (I prefer hardcoat) but use VERY little of it in your ink wash and make sure you don’t flood out the ink into the recesses or you’ll end up with shiny patches.

    e. Repeat until you are happy with the intensity of colour.



    Try it out – practice is very important, so if you are not happy with the effect, change the intensity of your blends and washes – you should get something very close to the pictures. See also “GONDOR IN FLAMES” pg 44



    Cheers.



    Paul K

    GW HOBBY SERVICE CENTRE


    So thanks to all - I think I got a definitative answer for this query.
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

    http://godisimaginary.com/index.htm
    Diabolus fecit, ut id facerem!
    ANZAC Clan

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