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Ok, I need some advice here:
I'm trying to paint my marines in a scheme that is largely SW grey (ok, Vallejo "Wolf Grey," but same difference), and I'm having a heck of a time trying to give it depth.
First, I tried straight wolf grey, shadow grey in the recesses, and highlight with skull white. Not bad, but still flat.
Now, I'm reading that light colors like grey/white aren't highlighted, they're shaded. So I try that. No matter how much glaze medium I put in the paint, no matter how careful the mix, my test models look "striped," and it's making me nuts!
I've blown two jokers in the Tale of Painters trying to fix this, and I'm really trying to make it up this month. I know there are lots of tutorials out there, but I trust this community more than anyone for good advice. I've read Minus T's guide, but I'm still not doing SOMETHING right. Can anyone offer good tips on using washes/glazes on FLAT surfaces, as opposed to "in the recesses," to help me shade? I'm going nuts trying to get this right, and it's making me hate my project, which I don't want.
EDIT: My original test model can be seen here (Clicky! (Canew's Avengers of Dyeshr (SM Chapter)))
I had a go at this last night in an attempt to both help you and actually learn something myself
Once I've made it to the striped part, I just gave it a wash of SWG, and it turned out really smooth. It's important however to add the paint/wash where the colour on the model already is brightest.
So, put some heavily dilluted SWG or WG in your case, on the bright part and work it out towards the end of the flat area.
I'll post pics tonight if LO is on.
I build up shades on smooth surfaces by shading the inside of the surface. If you paint an ink onto a marine you'll see where the ink pools, (towards the bottom of the greaves for example) this is where shading is most effective. You will not get a stripey look like this either.
Up, up and away!
Sorry for all the questions, but I'm very interested.
@Walex: That's what I thought I was doing, I think. Clearly, I goofed. Argh.
If you don't want to have to rely on washes I would start darker. I use a mixture of vallejo game and model colors. For greys I would start with either a dark grey or london grey (vallejo model color). If you start darker and then use watered down layers it should blend together nicely keeping the darker tone around the edges and get lighter towards the middle areas...
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This is but one of the times I wish I was more organized, so I could give you an exact measurement of my mix...
I just took some SWG and Skull White, quite a lot of water and then dipped the tip of my brush in blendingmedium and applied it at the brightest part. Then I brushed it out towards the darker stripes. Anyhow, here's the result...though you might want to ignore the blacklining as it was applied after the wash (you can see the stripe effect on it)
Hope it helps, if not I'll try to redo it as a step by step, with a bit more attention to the details...
@slorak: I thought of doing it like that, and I may still, but I've seen people have some real success with starting light and going dark, so I thought I'd try it this way. Washes don't bother me, as long as I can control them. Having a heck of a time getting them "translucent" enough, though. I drown my paint in Vallejo glaze medium, too, but to no avail. Hmm...
I have found that if you want to apply washes or any kind of ink-type work to a flat surface, you need to give the ink something to grip. I achieve this on my Tyranids carapaces by drybrushing on them. Once this is done the carapace accepts ink. This is because there is some texture and it can get a grip instead of dripping off.
I would suggest you do some light drybrushing on the areas you have problems with. Then ink them. They can then be highlighted and shaded. Because the area now has some texture the effect will be to make it less flat.
EDIT: And BTW, Leech, what... IS that in your sig?
It seems to be a bunch of scary tyranid-y bits and pieces...Originally Posted by Canew
Anyway, I suspect what he means is that instead of painting a flat coat of his base colour, he will paint the surface in the same way that you would drybrush (ie: with minimal paint on the brush), and simply spend enough time working on it that you cover the entire area.
This then gives the wash something to 'sit on', as opposed to running straight into the recesses, which helps out with staining the entire area.
As a side note, if you are having trouble with glazes running into recesses etc, try using less water with them. Simply water your paint to the 'normal' level you are happy working with, then add glaze medium to taste. With a significant ammount of glaze (10 : 1ish glaze:paint, for example) you should have something that basically leaves a slight colour stain over your original surface...
Last edited by minus_t; December 14th, 2007 at 07:56.
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