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Has my GW super glue gone bad?! I am trying to glue my Casket of Souls together and having a heck of a time.
The casket was easy because it was just blocks on blocks. But the priest is driving my nuts. I'll hold the arm to the body for 4-5 minutes and still no stickage! Is it normal to have to hold apendages to the bodys for extended periods of time or should the glue grab right away?
The glue is about 10 months old.
I don't think I've ever really used Citadel Superglue, it's easier for me to just by it from a local hobby or hardware store. But most of the superglues I've used will hold parts fairly swiftly, not longer than a minute or thereabouts and the bond is strong enough for you to let the parts sit by themselves rather than holding them.
If you put the glue on the parts, leave it for a few minutes until it just starts to get 'tacky' and then push the parts together, you shouldn't have to hold them for so long. This may help.
Also, I can't remember if you're supposed to put the glue on only one of the surfaces to be joined or on both of them. This could be making a difference.
I'm not sure if glue gets old. The only way I know my glue is old is because it's gone hard in the bottle! 10 months shouldn't be too much of an issue, provided it's still a liquid.
Sometimes the surface just isnt condition properly to allow the glue to set up.
Try first scraping all the glue out of the joints, then clean it with HOT water and soap. Let dry and make some score lines in the joints with an exacto to expose some clean metal and crate grooves for the glue to dry in. Also try some of the other brands of super glue, Gorilla Super glue(yes they make super glue also!) works insanely well, takes alittle longer to set up but holds like you melted the two pieces together. Hope that helps.
You might want to try pinning it, even a tiny little pin will help. Also, do the cleaning + etc mentioned above - it can really help.
Loctite make good super glue afaik.
I've used GW superglue before and in my honest opinion I wouldnt' reccomend it. The stuff I use is Loctite gel superglue. Also, although this might not be the problem, the older the superglue is the less it'll work. You can usually tell if it's going off when you examine the liquid types, if they start to appear thicker than usual then it's high time you bought yourself a fresh pot. Less is more! When using superglue of any types, the less you use the quicker it will stick. I've learnt that from personal experience(when I was young I used to use superglue like plastic glue!)
I hope that helps ya! :happy:
Two of the best bits of advice so far are: making sure the pieces you wish to stick together have a clean and filed-shiny surface really will help, and using smaller dots of superglue also helps, as there is less glue to cure. Otherwise, I have nothing else to suggest which has not already been said.
Some cyanoacrylics are better than others. I use Zap-a-Gap from Netmerchants; it takes up to 15 secs for bonding, but that allows you to reposition things if necessary. With this glue, less is definitely a better thing to do, but the glue itself is good stuff.
"Tau Commandment #226: Participants who use Velocity Trackers in the Tau Clay Pigeon Tournament will be disqualified"
Actually the best advice I have ever heard and given myself as to glue two pairs of metal mini with GW's superglue was...
Use a little superglue to the one part of the metal and to the other part a little salive... Works miracles! ;Y
Thanks to all the people showing faith in me
I sometimes feel that everyone will leave me and they will be on their own...
As others have said, less is more with superglue. Also i've found locktite to work wonders, GW glue was expensive and not so good for heavier pieces.
A tip to save your hands is to use something to keep the pieces together. Couple of ways of doing this:-
1) Gravity, some times you can put a mini (softly) in a vice and position the piece so it's weight is down and it's in the right place.
2) Support. I like to use Blu tack to take the weight off a limb while it drys. A ball of it stuck on an upper leg will hold an arm in place without getting the tack in the glue.
3) Tension. I've had some success with larger models using elastic bands to pull a model together. This sometimes takes a couple of winds and you need to watch it to make sure it's just right but it does work. You can also use clamps for this but it can be a pain to find them the right size.
Hope that's some help.
Bleed Black Label S.D.M.F's!!
I cheat and use the super glue that comes with a little brush. its very handy and means i don't accidently apply more than i want. Since using it i'm yet to glue my hands together again, and it can be found just about anywhere.:ninja: two swords up for little super blue brushes.
I'm also agree'd on making sure you've got shiny surface i just use the 'big' side on my file and scrape it away a little.:ninja3:
Some of the biggest problems with metal minis, is one thingalot of people forget:
WASH METAL MINIS FIRST.
metal minis with fine detail hold the release agent in those nooks and crannies and makes it almost impossible to get the metal on metal connection for a good glue to work.
Then, as gaunt said, make sure you score the areas you want glued together with a sharp xacto knife. cut into the metal one direction, then go back and cut in the perpindicular (sp?) direction. making a fence-type pattern or cross-hatching patten on both sides of the metal. THis allows the glue more surface area to hold onto and also the texture prevents slippage when metal on metal is done.
Also, i have seen saliva work on one piece and superglue on the other. It makes a whiteish glue mass but it gives you a good 10-15 seconds play time. once that dries, then hit it again over the spitglue with straight superglue. it doesn't always work, but i have seen it work a few times.
just some help from my exp.
Rome wasn't built in a day, Either should good scenery.