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Well I did it and I'm glad. Back in the days when my son was just starting out in 40K gaming we bought a tired old Armorcast Baneblade on Ebay and refurbished it. Although he was in extasy with it I was always bothered by the rather primative design and the cranium sized rivets so after I replaced it with a Mars Pattern Baneblade (his fav not mine) I asked him if I could do a bit of a facelift on the old relic.
As usual my documentation is sporadic and there's a lot of pictures of the same thing. My biggest regret is not showing the step by step manufacture of the demolisher cannon which I am especially proud of. Casting new lascannons for the sponsons is missing but the actual barrel manufacture is available so let's get started with a battle board scene of the tank company and the hapless victim in her prime.
Last edited by The_Blackadder; May 2nd, 2008 at 20:49.
First order of business is to get rid of the outrageous sized rivets and cut out the sponsons for a drum mounted pair of bolters.
Last edited by The_Blackadder; April 16th, 2008 at 00:55.
I'm curious as to how you will replace the rivets considering it's a resin model.
Will you just glue individual ones? or make hex bolts?
Are you planning on using any plastic Bits from the new Baneblade at all, like the rear fuel drums or searchlight?
No, I'll not be using any parts from the Baneblade kit. Almost every thing will be cast or scratch built including the nuts on the bolt on bumper. Rivets are the easiest of all, I use various sized straight pins (see my Titan Hunter Thread http://www.librarium-online.com/foru...an-hunter.html and please leave a reply, its fallen off the front page.) Pins have the added value of anchoring the armor panels where plastic is glued on resin and at the scale we're talking a round head and a hex head is too similar to be concerned about IMHO.
About the only bits I used are the various hatches and doors and vents mainly from Leman Russ and Chimera kits.
The chopping continues:
I feel like Sweeney Todd,
If I had it to do over again, I probably would not have chopped up the turret as apart from the excellent mount lock design there was very little left of the original turret when I finished.
Time to stop my mad careering path of destruction and actually do something constructive.
Using industrial quality 'Met-all' epoxy I formed the rear storage compartments on the turret and by laminating sheets of styrene from the slat of a cheap Venetian Blind fabricated the front turret shield. The strap hinges are from round stock and blind material. The main gun is a grey marker pen and the secondary gun is scratchbuilt out of various sized plastic tubing. styrene blind strips formed the edge gusset strips and decorating pins for styrafoam ornaments cut to length form the rivets. I'm more than a little irritated that I didn't document the fabrication of the front hull details. The forward viewport hatch approximated the one that is offered as a bitz from the chimera kit that I didn't know was available. I have the dubious knowledge that mine required a couple of hours labor. The headlight housings, armor, hatch with periscope, periscope forward viewport splash shield were all hand crafted from styrene. Flare launchers and winged skull are the only bitz in the picture.
Insanity thy name is Blackadder
So heres the broadside view of the Armorcast Baneblade before detailing. I glued on secondary armor plate with pins for rivets the engine compartment has been elongated and detailed ala the Lucius pattern (what else). The sponsons cut to receive the drum mounted bolters, incidentally I used half round wood moulding for the drums coated with 'met-all epoxy'but a dowel with a pin thru it would allow the bolters to move. I may do that at a later date.
Detailing the turret was a lot of fun. Since I started this project I couldn't wait to tackle this part. I used bits from a pen to make the range finders filled with epoxy and for electrical conduit fine styrene rods. The hatch is a bitz from a chimera screwed on so it can rotate. The electical cooling fins are sandwiched strips of styrene and the secondary hatch is a piece of sheet styrene.
Just a couple of detail shots while I catch up on my scratch built Warhound Titan. As I stated before a lot of the work on this model was casting in resin. The whole engine compartment is rough cast and sanded to the near approximate specification. As there is significant differences between the Armorcast and Forgeworld chassis's a little compromise was in order, hence the compartment extends a bit deeper on my rebuild. once the detail is added no one ever noticed and until I reviewed these images I'd forgotten myself. The second image displays my first attempt to cast a lascannon turret. A couple of failed attempts and I succeeded in two relatively acceptable castings. A little epoxy to fill in the bubbles and they were ready to mount.
I like my turrets movable so I drilled and tapped the turrets and inserted 6-32 studs into the hole, a thin 6-32 fenderwasher lifted the turret high enough so the paint wouldn't scratch. drilling and tapping the sponson gave me permanently mounted swivel turrets.
A light painting with primer brought out out cutting and sanding discrepancies that needed to be addressed before more detail could be added.
Last edited by The_Blackadder; April 21st, 2008 at 21:04.
When talking about drilling and tapping out threads and installing studs perhaps a visual aid would be in order well excuse me I forgot to post them so here's the lascannon drilled and tapped and readly to install.
The absent minded Blackadder