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I was wondering if anyone knows of an alternative adhesive for scenery (or in my cause, a plague tower) other than liquid nails. I was not fond of all the warnings on the back, especially the one claiming it has caused cancer in California. super glue doesn't seem to work to well. any suggestions? I'm using a lot of foam core board, and some type of very sturdy ridged poster board.
Hi, I am not sure what they call it over there but here it is called PVA Glue, which stands for Poly Vinyl Acetate. It has a lot going for it over liquid nails and super glue which says on the pack "won't permenantly adhere to porous materials" like foam or cardboard. PVA is a wood glue meaning it is meant to be used on porous material and liquid nails is a far too hardcore wood glue for what you have in mind.
Also PVA has a long shelf life, it won't go off after you open it unlike LNails and doesn't turn to ceremite when it dries.
Aaannd, PVA makes great looking natural or slimy terrain which would be perfect for your plauge tower, I can't explain it real well so test it out on a little plauge obelisk or something before your proper tower.
Hope this helps.
Total 40k: >5000pts
total WFB: ~2000pts
I also enjoy good music, fine food, late night strolls on the beach and dancing in moonkin form :)
My favortite glue to use on anything that isn't minatures is Hot Glue. The glue gun is fairly expensive but it's a worthy investment. You have to work quickly and carefully at the same time, as once it dries, it's nigh on indesructable. Practice with it first, and have pleanty of glue sticks on stanby if you're doing a big project.
Just cheap as chicks super glue and PVA for me, I've never used a fancy glue in my life. But some PVA can be better than others I've found.
I had one PVA bottle that would glue things down, but in a very limited way and things glued down would fall off with the slightest touch... cool ey? Unfortunately for me I used that glue to make most of the mek shop, so almost all of it had to be re-glued.
No more NG spearmen, thanks! Now I need some pump-wagons!
Seriously, the Cali people will force-feed a lab rat a metric ton of stuff not meant to be eaten just to see what happens.
Unsurprisingly, what happens is often a Bad Thing. Then, they decree that people must be warned!In the US (even the left coast part) PVA is called Elmer's, white, or "school" glue.I'm using a lot of foam core board, and some type of very sturdy ridged poster board
It makes a good bond with porous and/ or wood-based materials like yours.
Yellow, "wood" or carpenter's glue, is an aliphatic resin.
It's like PVA on steroids -
Wood glue is literally stronger than the molecular bond of wood-based materials!
But, both PVA and AR suffer from longish drying times, so here's a workaround:
First, dry fit the pieces before gluing - measure twice and all that.
Then, lightly glue the pieces with wood glue and "tack" the pieces together with blu-tac or putty.
The tack keeps the bits from sagging or shifting out of alignment as the resin cement dries.
After 2hrs or so, the tack blobs can be plucked off, and a final bead of glue applied at the joints.
This second glue application can be nice and thick, as sag and slippage will no longer be a concern.
Yeah I can attest to using blue-tac, the stuff is great for working with lots of bits at once that have to be positioned perfectly BEFORE gluing, and since I don't have 20 hands I bluetac it into place.
1. Almost every kind of glue except PVA will cause cancer, especially in California.
2. Plastic will kill you too. If you have ever melted styrene to make a battle damage hole or what not, that small puff of grey gas that comes out is cyanide. No Joke. Same base chemical compound used in Nazi suicide pills.
3. PVA glue never holds well for me and takes to long to dry. I always use Zap-A-Gap "slo-gap" glue. it's thicker and pastier than regular superglue. Once I get the pieces in place I blast it with Zip-kicker to solidify.
4. I prolly have cancer already.