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I've been trying to paint an imperial fists army recently. It looks great the way i have planned, the washes and highlights make the yellow vibrant and metallic looking.
The only two problems i have are:
I can't seem the get the constituency of the ink right so it either fails to show up at all or makes a mess all over the vomit brown secondary base coat.
- Filling in the grooves on the space marine armour with brown ink
- Shading the joints on the arms, helmets, feet and knee armour, again with brown ink.
Any tips on the right amount of water to add in this situation will be greatly appreciated.
I have heard something about washing up liquid aswell
One thing I've discovered after inking an entire Necron battleforce (my first real foray into inking/shading) is you should also consider how much is in the brush itself when you hit the model. If you're not doing it already, make sure you BLOT your brush. By that, I mean, don't go from palette/ink puddle straight to the model. If you do, there will be too much stuff on the brush, and at that consistency, there's no way you'll control it. The moment your brush touches the model, it will be flooded with ink/paint/wash and make a huge mess.
Instead, after loading the brush, dab it on a paper towel. No, don't fold the towel over it and wipe it off, but draw the brush across the towel once or twice. Trust me, there will still be plenty left. Now, go to the model and paint. Too dry? Blot a little less next time. Too runny? Blot more. You'd be surprised how much this little step will change how you look at washes and glazes. It's helped me a ton. It will also make the idea of doing a dozen coats much more palatable, lending a more professional "built up" look to your minis. With proper blotting beforehand, waiting for one coat to dry will take minutes, maybe even only seconds, and certainly not hours.
Re: floor wax. You're talking about the "Future Floor Wax" trick. Basically, mix water with the wax in a dropper bottle (you can buy an empty paint bottle from Vallejo with the dropper tip. I love mine), and use that as your thinning agent instead of straight water. Why? Apparently the wax breaks the surface tension of the paint/water/ink, which prevents it from "beading up" or holding together in one spot on the model. Makes it spread out a lot more.
How much wax? Some (like me) do an even 50-50, while others use more water than wax, etc. Experiment. In truth, I find it's not an utterly dramatic change, but I'm so used to it now I might find straight water less useful now. Still, it's not like Future Floor Wax is expensive or hard to find. I bought one bottle of the stuff at the grocery store once, and I imagine it will last years.
On the one and probably only Imperial Fist I have done - I used a flesh ink wash instead of a brown ink wash. It darkens enough without really spoiling the yellow too much.
When I set out on this project I knew that yellow would be a pain color to work with - so I don't really envy you having to paint up a whole army of them! My suggestion would be to keep to the flesh ink rather than the brown - or apply the brown carefully by wicking most of the ink off the brush before applying...
I added "dirt and muck" to the figure using vallejo smoke glaze. Works very well and is not too obscuring...
As for thinning inks - play with them a bit on a test figure. Sometimes you don't need to thin the ink and sometimes you just want a hint of color - therefore thinning you ink. Usually a trial and error thing...
You wight want to try using some automotive windshield washer fluid to thin your inks, versus a water mixture. The washer fluid is alcohol based, still breaks the surface tension due to the cleansers that are in it and aids in the drying process time some. It's best to mix in very small batches on a mixing pallet due to the alcohol's evaporation speed.
Thanks for the tips.
I suppose i will have to try various techniques till i get one that works.
That imperial fist model is great. Did you wash the model with flesh ink or just apply it to the joints and rivets directly.
I started with a white primer. I then painted on a layer or 2 of the equivalent to bad moon yellow (I use Vallejo paints primarily). I then did an ink wash of flesh ink over the entire model. I then painted up the layers of yellow - using the ligher yellow mixed in until it was the lightest yellow (the name escapes me right now).
I used Vallejo smoke to create the "dirt" effects. To brighten the yellow a bit first I also added a yellow ink glaze (vallejo inks) to enrichen the yellow a bit.