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im playing warhammer about an year now,
and i never really converted or used something not from GW ...... *sigh* i know its sad
but now i have some questions:
what paint is good to use beside GW paint??
is GW green putty good or is there a better one??
is magnetizing had to do??
i hope u guys can give me some answers..
What paint? P3, Vallejo and probably a hundred other brands.
GW Green stuff is pretty expensive. You can buy the same exact compound for much cheaper.
Also, there's the "White Stuff" and "Brown Stuff", both of which have slightly different properties.
As fifth said, there's plenty of brands out there, and they'll all work. GW, Vallejo and P3 are the ones that pop up right off the top of my head, but there are many others.
Green stuff is actually Kneadatite green putty cut down and rebranded by GW at a huge markup. It's good, but you can get much more of the same stuff for cheaper elsewhere.
Magnetizing? Nah, it's simple! Drill 2 matching holes, put a magnet in one, put the other magnet in so its poles are opposite, and you're done! The trick is getting good magnets, and making sure they're lined up right - there's nothing more irritating than gluing in your magnets only to discover that one's in backwards and the parts now repel each other rather than sticking together!
thnx for the suggestions
does that brown or white putty works the same way as the green one? or is it a one-component putty?
just searched around on vallejos site.
and i didnt really understand what is the difrence between game collors and model collors??
and how much paint is there in a vallejo bottle/tube/kinda like thing.
Two-component. They differ in drying time and their elasticity and hardness are different from GS when dried. BS and WS are generally used for very fine details, AFAIK.does that brown or white putty works the same way as the green one? or is it a one-component putty?Game colors = cartoonish, not unlike GW paints.and i didnt really understand what is the difrence between game collors and model collors??
Model colors = realistic, very popular among painters who use NMM techniques.