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I need a good non-fuming permanent glue to stick painted peices of a miniature together. Normally, I use superglue to assemble, then I paint. But I decided to try painting, then assembling. Let me tell you, painting went soooo much better when everything was broken down. But now I don't know how to put it together. I can't use superglue, the fumes will turn everything near the joints white.
For metal parts, you'll have to either be very careful with superglue (maybe a different brand won't craze the paintjob? Try Zap-a Gap), or be equally careful with a 5 minute epoxy - wonderful stuff, but messy.
Plastics can use any sort of plastic cement, but I'd either use Testors Model Master in the little bottle with the needle applicator, or my personal favourites, Ambroid pro-weld or Tenax 7-R.
Either way, you'll likely need to do a bit of filling and touch-up painting at the joint, it's pretty much inevitable... The trick is to find what works for you so the touch-up is as minimal as possible.
Any other kind of model glue that is not superglue will melt the plastic along the seams and inevitably destroy the paint job around the seams too. I think your prob with superglue is caused by 1 of 2 things.... Either you use way to much of it and the excess gas is causing the white or it is a really crappy super glue. Use Zap-A-Gap, and in modest amounts. A little goes a long way.
Also, a little tip. if the model is clear coated well when the white haze happens, I've in the past been able to actually rub that white haze off when i f'd up.
Interesting tidbit.... The same gas that causes that white haze when super gluing, is also the same gas that they use currently to reveal fingerprints in crime scenes. The haze actual "sticks" to the skin oils left behind on inanimate objects and reveals a frosted fingerprint.
I use testors for my plastics before I paint. My superglue is Loctite Gel (I like it because it stays where I put it, rather than making a runny sticky mess that ends up with my gluing my hand shut).
I've never heard of zap-a-gap, I'm guessing I can get it at any reasonable hobby shop?