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This is a tutorial for how to creating your own table. It really is fast and cheap to build.It isn't heavy as most wood built tables you normally see. This is am example for creating a plain battlefield due to a large collection of terrain not based here. The board will be black / grey and it the adequate scenery pieces can easily shift from lava rivers, to city fight or even ash wasteland.
For most detailed images just ask for them.
First of all the materials needed (some of them are optional, but they make life easier and I might not know all the names for the equipment needed, in those cases I will use a translator; anyway they will appear in the images so it is really easy to see what i am talking about) :
Polystyrene: 3x 4'x2' around 1.5" thick
Wood: Some parts are longer, around 1' long, the square ones are about 6"
Screwdriver: normal and electric (the lat is optional)
Screws around 1" or a bit longer
On to optional:
X-acto knife (around here it might be known as uttility knife but even a kitchen knife cuts this)
Hammer and Big nail to open small holes for preventing the screws sliding)
Wall fixing putty ( don't know exact name but comes in the white/ blue jar in the next pic)
silicone (with red/ black gun)
Foam cutter (green thing on bottom image with wires attached
( This picture shows the table after filled, but more on that later, You can see the unassembled X-acto knife with the blade at its side)
On to actual building the table.
Pick one of the big polystyrene parts and onto the wider side place some of the wood; half supported in other polystyrene piece.
Then just start screwing like a madman. Take it slowly and very slow when you reach the polystyrene. You might use your hammer and a nail to create a small starting hole preventing the screw from slipping away. You can see the look of the thing when everything is screwed on the third image with material.
Due to hammering this photograph isn't good but i am hammering the old nail
Cut the edges as they might crack, use the X-Acto knife or foam cutter.
The edge that will be cut is the preeminent part
You may put silicone on the screws and the wood at any part that will touch the polystyrene. I didn't. But I regret it and on any next table I build, I will definitively do it.
Flip the whole thing. There are noticeable cracks everywhere. I didn't picture them and when I remembered it was too late.
Apply the wall fixing putty on the junction of the polystyrene. With the blade from the X- Acto smooth it out. As with green stuff, keep tools wet. After putty applied (it could have been smother but it will get full of pva glue and sand so i dind't worry too much) :
This will be updated, computer crashed and i lost part of the work ( the table is covered in sand which will be painted in black, probably using textured paint and drybrushed grey over that)
Last edited by GrmG_g; September 5th, 2008 at 22:18. Reason: This is being updated, i just posted to prevent if the computer crashes
Welcome to LO. I like the light weight idea.
The Great Plague meets The Devourer of The Galaxy. What does that make us?
y do u need the wood? if you just use the faom? support? saving the rain forests?
It doesn't think, it doesn't feel, It doesn't laugh or cry, All it does from dusk till dawn, is make the soldiers die.
its not the way that I would come about it but its a good idea. Keep up the good work
"As I dream, so shall it be"
I will post an update on this tonight. I will be 2 weeks off in vacation and that should be enough to have the white glue dry when I arrive.
gauss_storm, BZenwrath, SGluciousa: Thanks for supporting and welcoming me. I had been subscribed here before but I didn't even remember the email password.
amphibious: The areas of foam that touch each other can't support the weight of the scenery. I show a photo when I cut when and You can see how small it is. This wood is "recycled". Only a thin layer is actual wood the middle is plywood. And it would be sent to trash so I am ,at least a bit, contributing to save the rainforest.
The lightweight is a need considering it may either be on top of the table I worked onto, onto a kitchen table or put on top of a car to travel to someone else house or to a local gaming club. The wood ensures I can take it to anywhere without actually damaging the polystyrene.
Just to say this is my previous account. I am GrmG_g. I want to change the usernames, is that possible?
Hey! welcome back to LO, GRM!
Love the idea of a lightweight board. I have 4 boards sitting atop one another and they are heavy as heck (4xto move.
THis idea is great.
only thing I would have done: Once screwing into the foam with the screws...take them back out, and push putty into the holes, once the went putty is i nthe holes, rescrew in the screws...letting the putty seal itself around the foam AND the screw..strengthening the bond.
other than that...awesome idea. Welcome back bro.
Rome wasn't built in a day, Either should good scenery.
I stated that you could/ should apply silicone on the screws. I didn't. Today I moved the board and one piece of wood felt due to lack of grip between screw and foam. When this happens I cover the hole and screw with silicone and put it back in.
Continuing the tutorial: Giving a terrain look to the table
Earth/ sand mix (according to what you want use what you feel the best. Static grass works well in patches and big areas but in the last case mix a bit of yellow and brown static grass)
Brush ( the bigger the better)
Not mandatory: Water ( some of the glue is already good)
I think it is pretty straight forward. Mix White glue with water until you have a mix that seems paint after 10 minutes at air. Stickier than normal paint but easy to spread. Pick your brush and apply this to the whole table ( do this on one go to prevent zones which have to few glue in the areas that would cross each other if you had done this in 2 or 3 separate parts). Spread earth/ sand on a thick layer. Wait a few days and flip the table over. This is time to put silicone on the screws if you didn't or something felt. Let earth/ sand go to the ground and then clean up but don't throw it away. It will be used to cover any gaps from this step or to base your models according to the board.
After application (sorry for shaky image but you get the idea):
I still haven't but I will cover all the sides with duck tape., now that they are flat to prevent damage.
It is all for now, the glue/ water takes at least 3 days to get completely dry. The images above show the table with extra sand due to wet glue. I still haven't flipped it, on the next step I will show how to paint this. I will be two weeks off so this will be completely dry then.
Last edited by GrmG_g; September 5th, 2008 at 22:20.
DUDE THAT IS PERFECT!
I want my table to look cool and deserty and this is spot on!
how can I thank you?