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Hey LO'ers. For those who remember me i am back.
I have been lurking for about 3 months know since RL got hard and strenuous but now i think i put enough time into the hobby to make it worth while .
So i have been doing my Deathguard army on and off for about 4 months and i have hit a problem when i want to make rusty areas of the models stand out... This is particularly when i want orange to stand out from the brown green colour scheme.
I've tried a few things like blending into the orange from the brown but that made them look like a rainbow, so as you can imagine.. they didn't look very nice (or horrible or Nurgley) so thats out of the question.
The local GW staff in Derby told me to maybe try some blacklining and the walked off to tend to there shop not giving me, a new person to the shop a second glance... So i walked out in a huff. (angry to those who don't understand typical british slang)
I have tried 2 different ways both with varying effects but neither really clinch it for me.
1st: I paint the area i want to stand out completly black and add the colour to the centre of the black leaving a black outline. This works with varying degree of sucess but not as well as i hoped.
2nd: Is that i paint the colour and then add the blackline round the edge... this works well in some situations but when the area i am wanting to blackline is in an awkward place i get quite annoyed as i mess up my other paintjobs around the mini.
Alas i am quite stuck on this. and ask you! my fellow LO compadre's for help!
Yay for coming back to LO
and yay for LO in general!
Well, I find one of the best ways to do actual rust is to "stipple" one color of paint onto another, basically like drybrushing only you "stab" a flat surface with the brush. Debate rages over whether to put the rust color on first as a basecoat, then stipple on the metal or vice versa, but you get the idea.
As far as I know it, "Blacklining" is different, and refers to painting a dark color in a well-defined recess, such as the seam in armour, to add depth.
For example, let's say you want to paint your model's armour a medium sickly green (we are discussing Nurgle, after all). So let's say you go and do that all over the model, but notice the seams don't stand out.
To "blackline" the seams, you take a darker color (either a really dark green or brown or black. Your choice, but black's a common one) and use either a fine brush or a fine-tipped large brush to paint the black into the recess. I'm told but cannot confirm that thinning the paint down and "wicking" paint off the brush, like when you do a wash, will help control it, and adding glaze medium apparently doesn't hurt.
I will be in Derby store Thursday 06/11/08, hopefully all day if you want to pop down and Ill show you how to go about some different techniques if you like.
Black lining is quiet a simple method as Canew said, its a very basic level of layering really. Painting a darker or much darker colour into recesses.
I think blacklining techniques vary depending on the model. For Tau, Eldar and anything else with recessed panel lines, there's a couple of very easy techniques that end up looking pretty good. What I personally do is use a 5:1 mix of Future Floor Wax and Black Ink, and using a small brush just run along the panel lines with that. What ends up happening is the ink will "crawl" or "flow" through the panel lines naturally, without having to actually worry about proper painting.
I've heard of quite a few Gundam modelers using various drafting and art pens to do the same thing.
Finally, many military modelers will paint their model using acrylics, seal their model (usually with FFW) and then use a wash made of turpentine and oil based paints. They say that all you need to do is touch the brush to the panel line and bam the mix will run it's way up and down the panel lines. Haven't tried this yet, but it sounds very interesting.
For models without defined recesses, more like ridges on armor (shoulderpads for example) I believe a similar mix but with more appropriate colours and very good brush control could work. That's how i did the touchups on my eldar... but again it really depends on the model at hand.
I remember there was a lot of mention of Blacklining on
the privateer press studio for painting.
I think the guy might have been talking about lining the edges of the rusty parts. Here are some nice articles, which you can adapt for rust
Salty Battle Damage :: Brushthralls.com
Battle Damage.... with Video!*-*BrushThralls.com
there was also a really good article in one of the No Quarter magazines showing how this was done.
Thanks alot for the advice.
The main problem i am having is that im not able to make the rust pop. So if anything i am looking for techniques that will help me do that!
Black lining was the first thing that was given to me "idea" wise via some people who i thought would definitely know what they are talking about.
Thanks everyone for all your valuable input =]
- Dan, I've got a lecture at 1 till 3 so i will hopefully be down a little later bout 4ish. =] see you then.
Heres one I prepared earlier!
For the crackle effect ave a look at THIS. Ive read through this a few times before and though it might work if you use a think spray nozel, like a drinks straw to confine the spray to the area you want to crack. It might not work at all however and it might make all your paint flake off!
Id go about it by doing this.
- Paint rust over the area. scorched brown, tin bitz, blazing orange, mix em up.
- Pray to your filthy gods
- Spray with crackle glaze
- Paint over the area with your base colour
- Watch and either cry this a failure or hail this a miracle.
Not sure how much you need "cracks" for rust though, I think I tend to associate rust more with rugh, brown-orangish surface. Although on large flat areas it does tend to crack and flake off. I never did advanced rust effect, I only used Vallejo's Smokey Ink on weapons to simulate old rusted metal and I think it worked alright, but not perfect. It was a simple Boltgun + Ink method.
It might help if you can find a picture to post of something that resembles the effect you're going for, so we can help you "reverse engineer" it.