From Guants Workbench: The Definitive Guide to building and scenicing a play table - Warhammer 40K Fantasy
 

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  1. #1
    Mad Modeling Master Guant's Avatar
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    From Guants Workbench: The Definitive Guide to building and scenicing a play table

    Everything from start to finish

    1) Forget the Kitchen table, reign over your own domain

    Now believe me Im a big advocate of using the kitchen table for 40k and such but there will come a time in everyones life when they need their own table to play on. So to help you make that leap, we are going to be making a 2 part modular 4'x6' table. The whole thing should only cost about $50 dollars, not even as much as a landraider(something to think about). Its not as hard or expensive as you might think and with me coaching you through step by step, you'll be rolling dice and deciding the fate of the universe in no time flat.

    Materials
    - 4 8' long, 2'' x 4''or 6''
    - 4 8' long, 2''x2''
    -2 or 3 8' long, 1'' x 2''(The cheapest crap you can find)
    -16 3 1/2'' long,1/4'' diameter bolts and wing nuts
    -2' x 8' of 2'' thick high density insulation foam (the pink stuff)
    -Several clamps, preferably C style clamps
    -Good Wood Screws
    -Power drill with both drill bits and screw bits
    -Power saw of some type


    2) Benchwork . . .My one true weakness

    Ok now Im a scenery guy by trade but from all my years as a model railroader I have learned a few things about woodwork and building benchwork. Im going to do my best to bring you throw this part step by step cause I know many people here have never built anything like this before. First thing we need to talk about is buying the wood. You can do one of two things here, be cheap and risk it or spend more and sleep easy at night. Pine wood is cheaper by a long shot but has this tendency to warp like there is no tomorrow. For a table like ours that might be ok since its not going to be a master piece of craftsmanship. HOWEVER the warping might be an issue when building and later in the tables life as the top and joints start to become dislodged. The other option is to buy the pressure treated wood which is just about guaranteed straight and not to warp much over time. But its harder on the wallet, the choice is yours and believe me Im not the best role model for these things.

    The wood you see in the pictures is the cheapest crap I could find at Home Depot since the wood work for my modules is going to be hidden by a cloth and need it be I can just rebuild them at a latter date(that and Im building an 12'x3' on a college students budget). I feel at this point I should also point out that Im building model railroad modules for the club at my college, so mine aren't intended for game play but none the less the scenery and benchwork methods Im going to cover apply to both. This is one of the reasons I could get away with cheap wood, my tables will not be used as heavily as a game table. Any way things you want to avoid in your wood when you buy it are large knots(the dark circles in the wood) and pre warped wood (just look down it in the store for curves in the wood, you want straight stuff)

    Also note that I said you can use 2''x4''s or 2'' x 6''s. This is because the modules Im building need 6'' walls to meet the nation standards for what Im doing with the model railroad. You can use either one, it wont really make a difference either way.

    So then assuming you make it out of Home Depot with everything and back home in one piece, it now gets interesting. Take the 2x6's and cut them up into the following segments.

    You'll want to have four 4' long sections and four 33'' long sections. I know 33' inches sounds wrong but trust me an under cut has been factored into the measurements. These when put together will create two 4' by 3' boxes which when put together will make a great 4'x6' table to play on.


    Anyway grab a square or something with a good 90 degree edge and your screwgun. Predrill your screw holes as shown below with the 33'' piece of wood being sandwiched between the two 4' sections. Now clamp down your wood and square off the first corner. This will ensure you end up with a square square and no funky angles. Drop in three screws and do the same for the opposite sides until you have the entire rectangular box built.


    At this point you may be wondering what those crappy small cuts of 1''x2'' are for, Ill tell you. Since there is going to be no solid plywood table top for the table we are going to make cross pieces to help hold up the foam. Every 8''s or foot drop in one 33'' piece and screw it into place even with the top of the wood surface. This will give us more area to glue the foam onto latter and more support so no ones hand or arms cracks through the foam.



    The next section will be on building the legs and support system that will allow the entire thing to be disassembled and stored easily.





    Alright note that this is a work in progress. Im writing the article as I finish work on my modules so it my be a bit between sections. AND PHOTOS ARE TO COME with in a day.

    Last edited by Guant; November 5th, 2008 at 16:00.

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  3. #2
    Mad Modeling Master Guant's Avatar
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    Alright minor photo update. Ive been really busy since its been finals week here at college, so the part about making the legs is coming, just slowly. But alas things will pick up in a week or so and definitely after the thanksgiving break.

  4. #3
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    Fantastic stuff there!

    You may well have plans to have cross pieces on the legs for support... if so, IGNORE MEEE!

    Would love to do something of this magnitude but alas, cannot until I find a place of my own.
    Eldar ~7k, Orks ~11k, Tyranids ~1k5, Space Wolves ~1k

  5. #4
    Mad Modeling Master Guant's Avatar
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    When I write up the leg section I will tell you to do cross legs, but again since my table are for model railroad modules I dont need the cross pieces for extra support.

    And I love the venture bros referacne, greatest cartoon ever.

  6. #5
    I'm back >.> Pickle's Avatar
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    This looks very interesting, I'm subscribed, keep it up as usual
    Miss Spam Master 2009
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  7. #6
    Murder omgitsduane's Avatar
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    Brilliant start! I've decided to just keep mine simple and have the board on a table is all! But keep going guant!

  8. #7
    Member Sagax3410's Avatar
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    This looks like something I can try.


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