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Whats the secret to placing Water Transfers on Marine shoulder pads and other non-flat surfaces? i have tried cutting the ripples on the transfer with a razor and that seems to work okay but it always ends up chiping of when the transfer dries. Can anyone help?
Transfers should be applied between two layers of varnish for best results. If you're having trouble fitting it to the curved surface, there are any number of absolutely nasty toxic cancer causing chemicals labelled 'decal softener' that you can get at the sorts of shops that sell model trains, RC planes, etc, that work very well when used properly with extreme care
I put together a tutorial on this very subject. I even make use of the cancer causing solutions!
You can find it here: Curdled Milk Decals my way!
As well as here on Librarium Online: http://www.librarium-online.com/foru...ml#post1170402
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lol, Slorak, nice hat, haha!
I've had some limited success using a lighter to get my transfers to lie flat on marine shoulder pads. Once you've applied the transfer and given it sufficient time to dry (an hour or two) take a lighter and hold the flame to the transfer for one or two seconds. Don't leave the flame there too long or you'll scorch your paint job. Do this a few times until the creases and folds of the transfer have melted down flat.
I recommend trying this on some test models first.