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I'm seeking recommendations for a brush-on primer solution. I'd really like to get started on painting my Ork Hoard this winter but due to the weather I've been paranoid about spray priming my miniatures. I'm new to the hobby and would like to get off to a good start with a solid foundation. The importance of quality priming has been clear to me and I think regardless of weather I'd like to try a brush-on primer. Can anyone recommend a solution?
I've come across the following brush-on solution that seems very appealing. I intend to try it over the holiday once the local craft store opens up:
Priming with Acrylic Gesso
I've come to the conclusion that most people tend to use spray on primer as a time saving technique. Is there any other reasons to choose a spray on solution over brush-on?
Thanks and happy holidays!
I'm a recent convert to Gesso. I've been using it for the last week, and it's great for cold weather priming. I also find that it is a lot more forgiving than primer. Apply too much gesso and it still drys smooth and clear.
That said, one of its shortcomings is drying time. Spray Primer drys much faster than gesso and you are ready for painting. Gesso suggests waiting for 24 hours for it to fully dry, however in practice you could start painting after a couple hours.
If you're in a rush to get paint on the minis then gesso may frustrate you.
Last edited by r_h_knight; December 26th, 2008 at 21:19.
In that case... give gesso a try. I think you will be pleased with tht outcome
Hour and a half for just cleaning plastic mould lines from one mini??? I think you overstretched this a little
XD i think he ment for all 60 modles XD at first i thought the same
First time I've seen someone ELSE on LO who actually wants to BRUSH ON primer! I know this will draw fire, but I personally HATE spraying passionately for many, many reasons.
I've never used Gesso, but I do use what has been affectionately referred to on LO as "the Slorak method," which consists of using a specific version of Folk Art's Glass and Tile Medium cut about 50/50 with water. As long as you mix as you go (don't store it mixed. That would be a Bad(tm) idea), I find it works great, and a little goes a loooong way. I've primed a good 1,500 points worth of necrons, including my monolith, plus nearly a dozen other test models, all with ONE bottle of the medium that cost me $1 US, and there's still some left in the bottle!
The link you posted shows a Minas Tirith soldier unprimed and primed. The thing about the medium I use is the difference is even more difficult to spot by eye. The medium dries PERFECTLY flat, and doesn't obscure detail at all. It also has no color, which is a turn-off to those who enjoy priming in black or white. Personally, I find it's no big deal, especially if you use GW Foundation paints as your basecoat (which many recommend you do anyway).
The only time I've noticed a big problem is if you do a lot of painting with metallics. For example, I painted a grey knight once as a test model, using boltgun metal as a basecoat, over the "Slorak method" primer. I noticed the paint on the backpack came out at a SLIGHTLY different "tint" from the paint on the rest of the model, because the GK backpacks are plastic, and the rest of the model is metal.
If this is a problem, and you have the patience, I recommend undercoating with GW's Astronomicon Grey. Gives a nice, uniform undercoat. Yeah, it's an extra step, but it will fix the problem nicely.
As to the time it takes to prime, it's true that it takes less time to spray a model, but for me, spraying a model is always the FIRST step, after which I find myself painstakingly touching up with a brush anyway. The time it takes me to do THAT is definitely equal to the time it takes to brush on the primer. While Slorak would probably suggest going more slowly and evenly, I find an old flat tank brush works nicely, and fast. Unfortunately, you do need to leave it for 24 hours, but I find many spray primers are oil-based, and should be left that long to dry anyway.
Also, the medium I use will stink up a ROOM while drying, but not a whole FLOOR or HOUSE or APARTMENT, which has been my experience with spray primers that are oil-based.
I'm very meticulous about scraping and reshaping the surfaces to completely remove any indication. The open areas, such as down the thigh region of a leg are really fast, but the small details and tight areas are the real time sink. The majority of my time is spent in tight crevice areas such as wrinkles on pants and small details on spikes and toothed(chainsaw swords) weapons. I work over these areas to gently remove the lines but preserving the detail.
I sat with a friend and scrapped mold lines and he finished 3 Eldar in the time I compelted one Ork Boy...there was a HUGH difference in quality to anyone's eyes as he removed the most "offensive" areas quickly while I treated every millimeter with equal care under intense lighting. When I'm done you can scrutinize every part of the model closely but you'd find it hard to find any indication of a mold line. I realize some people think this is insane, but I find it hard to not do it! To each, his own!
This level of meticulous attention is the very reason I'm inclined to brush-on my primer instead of spraying them...it's a control thing I suppose. I want to make sure every part gets a nice even prime while maximizing detail retention.
I'll just feel like I'll have more of a direct impact on the outcome of the prime if I use a brush. Anyway, I had read about the Sloark method some place on these forums before, but I completely forgot about it! Thanks Canew! Oh, and you too Sloark! I can get the supplies for both techniques at the same local craft store so once I finish my holiday I'll get back to my miniatures and do a head-to-head challenge of the two methods!