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I have just discovered inking, as I always wondered how those gw people painted a dark eldar warrior without touching the creases. I am having some problems though
I started with applying ink by using a brush. This ink is made from about 8 drops of chaos black paint with water. When I apply it, the look is fabulous. When it dries, its another story. Sometimes the ink doesn't fully land a mark inside creases, and it spreads around the crease, so on the outside of where you want it. THe black is not sticking into the inside of the creases.
I end up applying various coats and it gets a little messy. ALso, how do I apply this? DO I dip the whole model in ink? PLease, I need a step by step of how to do this, it is killing me.
THank you for your time.
"There is no middle ground. Strike Hard, strike fast and strike first."
I had that problem with my dark eldar too . It is very anoying. I don't think the GW black is a very good ink in the first place, all they're other inks are great. Instead of using black, try inking them the color they are (blue,green,red,etc) you should still get details to be darker. you can still use black ontop of that too. Mix one or two drops of black in a decently sized drop of water, so it kinda looks like the paint brush cleaner bucket. This should be a thin enough black that it will only get the cracks and not screw up the rest of the model.
My prist in the space marine pictures was done useing red paint and red ink. I only blacked the joints in and his fingures. Isitused did the uber light coat of black ink Idea and he doesn't have any thing posted, but I live with him and his stuff looks realy good useing that tactic of inking.
Hope that helps a bit. I haven't painted dark eldar in a few years, though I have a 4000 point army ^_^
Tomb Kings, Marines, Eldar
Try buying GW inks instead of mixing them yourself. I have found atchual inks alot more effective.
A Promise to a dead man means nothing.
That is not ink, but a wash. Inks are something entirely different, which just happens to be used in a similar way.
Also, don't even try to use citadel paints for a wash, especially not citadel black. It won't turn out good. Vallejo paints work well though.
What you can use are flow enhancers, and many painters use some certain type of floor wax fluid for their washes ("FUTURE acrylic floor finish for non-wax and regular floors" by Johnson & Son), apparently with great results. Try googling for "magic wash painting".
oh.. this is making more sense now...
GW inks I just have never seen before.
"There is no middle ground. Strike Hard, strike fast and strike first."
I find that inks work best watered down. Pick a mixture that gives just the right amount and apply to areas that you want shaded. It will take some practice but you'll get the hang of it. The color ink depends on the base color and the effect that you are going for.
Hope that helps
Marion: You're not the man I knew ten years ago.
Indiana: It's not the years, honey, it's the mileage.
For the last time, there are
NO FEMALE SPACE MARINES!!!!!
Don't mix your own inks. Use GW's inks, and use LOTS of it, let it spill down onto the base. Then you drybrush afterwards. It ain't worse than that. Your model should be really dark after inking. The acctual color you want can be drybrushed on afterwards. That's at least what I do, The Incubus...
Ave Dominus Nox!
The first two rules of ink:
1. Paint thinned down is not ink.
Use actual inks, from GW, another company, artists ink (Higgins, Dr. Ph Martiens), or any other permanent ink. Before you mix different brands of ink check for compatibility on a test model.
2. Water is the worst thing to thin your ink or paint.
Sure you can do it, you could use school paste to put together your minis too, but its not going to give you good results. Water has a very high surface tension. This makes the water want to draw itself across the surface of your mini. It doesn't want to flow into the low spots, it wants to climb around. It also beads up in drops because of the surface tension. This makes for a spotty wash. When a drop dries, it dries from the outside, where it's thinnest. When the outer ring dries, it pulls the inner water to the outside. You end up with a color ring instead of a dark in the center/depths effect you were trying for.
Ways to thin your inks,
For washes: (cheapest)
Use some commercial floor wax with four parts wax to one part water. This is the liquid wax that comes in 2-5 gallon containers. You don't need that much so bug your closest janitor and borrow a jar full of wax. Second choice is to buy clear acrylic floor wax, such as Future, from the local grocery.
Use acrylic flow enhancers from the local art store. Add as much as you like. You can also add retarders to keep the paint from drying too fast. My personal mix is 4 parts Testors Acryl Thinner or Liquitex Flow Aid, 1 part Liquitex Slow Dri retarder, 3 parts Future floor wax (makes the finish a little harder) and 2 parts water (extends the mix without any ill effect in small amounts). As one ounce parts I mix up a 10 oz bottle with a tiny spout for use during painting.
For black lining (when you want the ink to flow only into cracks):
Thin with alcohol. Use straight rubbing alcohol to thin the ink. Load a small brush and just touch it to the crack. The ink will flow like lightening through the crack. Practice a couple of times to get the load for your brush right. The effect is amazing. This way you don't have to wash you whole model if you don't want. You can finish painting without trying to stay out of the cracks. Then add a drop to each crack and instant lining.
How I use them:
This guy was washed with browns and blacks using the above mix to create shadows on the clothing and flesh, and black lined using ink/alcohol mix, mostly the axe runes.
Keep in mind the thinning mix does make a shine, similar to straight GW ink. This Dwarf was painted in the basic colors, nothing special except staying between the lines. Then a wash was applied, let dry, and limited black lining. Once dry I sprayed with Testors Dull Cote. That's it
First off, very nice model! second, in wat line of order was your wash done? did u finish highlighting and then go back and wash his flesh? or did u do it before hand?
also, just to be clear wen u say wash, u mean that with your mixture u wentover the entire model correct?
sry one more thing. when u black lined his axe, did u only put the mixture in the lines or did u go over the whole axe and it went into the cracks by itself? thx for your help in advance.
<insert witty remark here>
The model was painted using one of my speed painting techniques. This particular technique works well for models that have a lot of detail, but the detail is not very deep. Meaning they have lots of hair, robes, leather, things with rolling surfaces and not cracks, panel lines and smooth areas, like a marine.
The purpose of this technique is to allow you to paint a lot of troops quickly, Scaven, Dwarfs, Fantasy Orcs, even Empire troops. I will have a step-by-step with pictures up on my site shortly. I just need to take some more WIP shots while painting the next unit.
The model is primed white. I paint each area the base color. One color only except for the chainmail which was black then drybrushed with metal. The skin areas were painted flesh, brown for the leather, green edging, wood, metal, etc. All I did was stay in the areas. No special techniques here. However, the paints are thinned (using my mix above) so they flow well and are just thick enough to color the white primer and accumulate slightly in the recesses.
Once dry, I wash the entire model with black ink thinned with floor wax. If you don't want to mix your own, www.magicwash.com sells the perfect mix already prepared. I use the dark dirty brown and origial (black) the most. Once dry I use ink thined with alcohol to add black to any borders or lines I think need it. In the case of this Dwarf's axe runes, all I did was touch the tip of a brush lightly loaded with the alcohol ink to the crack of a rune. The ink immediately flowed through the whole design. If you get a little outside the lines, just wipe the surface lightly to rub it off without removing ink from the lines. This works very well for marines, Tau, panels on vehicles, etc.
I let the model dry completely and spray it with a coat or two of Testors dull cote. Thats it. Very fast. I can paint a 20 troop unit in one night and spray it the next day.