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I primed a bunch of models with a base of white. I should have used black. Will it ruin them if I prime them again in black?
A thin coat of black over a thin coat of white shouldn't obscure details. If you're really worried about it, water down some black and apply it by hand.
And over there we have the labyrinth guards.
One always lies, one always tells the truth, and one stabs people who ask tricky questions.
I'd be more inclined to wash them black at that point rather than do another layer of spray paint, if you really don't want to strip them.
I don't think it's ever 'wrong' to undercoat white, it's a tradeoff. With white you'll get nice bright colours, with black you get dark shading in the hard-to-reach recesses. I agree with the comments above but if you find you're layers are too thick I recommend using break fluid to clean them and try again.
Just a few points about break fluid:
Wear gloves and eye protection -this stuff is nasty.
Don't ever ever poor break fluid down the drain or dump in somewhere - it's very toxic.
I've found that leaving the minis (plastic or metal) in a tub of the stuff for 24-36 hours is normally sufficient, clean the minis with paper towel and then you can then get an old toothbursh and give it a good scrub in some warm, soapy water.
You can then filter the used fluid with a funnel and some paper towel to line it so you can use it again rather than waste it.
When you do come to dispose of it, do so properly at a recycling/waste center that can handle it for you.
I've tried other products but nothing beats break fluid, sadly (because it's toxic).
IronSnake made a lot good points, some of which i'd like to contribute to a bit:
Brake fluid can be used more than once, jsut pour it back into it's container and re-use later. So it's pretty good for value.
And 24 hours is possible, but a lot of models will go quicker than that.
As to metal models, i use a paint striping compound for those, it's extremely nasty stuff, people use it to de-paint sheds and stuff, it's much more thorough than brake fluid but it'll completly consume plastics and use gloves , this stuff'll eat into your hands, so get a parent to help you if you're younger than 18.
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The "safer" alternative to all this is Simple Green, which eats tjhrough most primers as well (or Dettol) - you can't buy Simple Green in the UK, unless you go onto teh manufacturer's website (who happens to be in the UK!!!!) - thanks to Brotehr Argos for passing me this info!
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My suggestion is that if you truly want them black - I would wash them with black ink. I do it all the time. If you thin the ink at all it will be a darker gray. If you apply a few coats it will be mostly black.
I would not waste the time to strip the paint. Sometimes it is hard to get all the primer off and when you re-prime you risk an unevenly primed figure. Much much easier just to wash it with black ink. the ink is thin enough where it will not obscure any details...
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I agree with the ink/wash solution. I have found in the past that applying this kind of wash to a white undercoat will also allow you to view the details much easier, as the startness of the wash tends to bring it out in them.
Since I presently have black fingers I thought it appropriate that I agree with the earlier posts. A simple wash can be used to ensure that the recesses are nice and black. If the large surfaces remain a little grey this is not a problem as you will be painting over those areas on any account.
It's quick easy and effective!
ps. I use a large drybrush, it's nice and quick and you don't need to worry about destroying the brush when you work it into the nooks.