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I bought a tub of glade grass from GW to base my minis with and i have some questions
what colors looks the best to paint the base prior to putting the grass on? Brown? Green? i would prefer to do the green but i cant figure out which green matches the glade grass the best
and also the glade grass in my tub is extremly clumpy. when i dip the guy on his base in there i have to really dig him in there and it's giving terrible results. i've shaken the tub and every tried to dig around in it to stir it up but nothing is working. any thoughts?
also even though i've read it a million times anyone care to reiterate the process for static grass basing?
google searched and found my own thread
I have seen static grass applied many different ways. The easiest is to simply paint the base green or brown. I prefer brown, it doesn't matter, as the base likely won't show through, but if it does, it will look like patches of dirt where grass has been torn up. Real grass is just green blades on a brown earth- why wouldn't bases be the same?
Having painted the base, you can now apply a coat of pva glue. Any basic craft glue will work, I use elmer's. Some people tell you to water it down, but I usually just squeeze a little bit onto a plate and then use an old brush to apply it to the bases.
Once the glue is on the base, sprinkle the grass over the base. You want a very heavy coating. Some people dip the base through the tub of grass- I abhor this, because it could mix glue in with your grass and cause it to clump and become unuseable later.
Gently tap the base to knock off most of the excess. Again, my paranoia has led me to knock the excess grass off into a different container, just to avoid mixing 'sticky grass' with the unused grass. When I move to the next base, Iuse the excess from the previous base, to avoid waste. The idea is to have little excess left at the end of the project as possible.
A more involved method is to toss another basing medium onto the base. I based my HighElves with fine gravel from a model-train company, to give the bases a rocky look. Once the stones were in place, I placed a few clumps of static grass between them, to look like grass was growing up through the rocks in a few key areas. This allowed me to make the grass stand up more realisticaly, but also takes more time, is more fragile (the stones come off more easily) and more expensive.
Hope this helps.
that helps a little bit
but, what's the best way to sprinkle it on?
and why is my grass so lumpy? how do i de-lump it? poking around and stirring it up didnt work.
are there any browns or greens that look better? darker or lighter? which brown do you use?
I know I should be the nice mod I am and kick out a step by step to do this,
but since you're too lazy to use the search field to find the half dozen(not exxagerating) threads about this very instructions, i'll be lazy too and just post a link
Salmondworks Tutorial Blog Basing Miniatures Tutorial
((**all in jest**))
Rome wasn't built in a day, Either should good scenery.
i thank you for your assistance but i am pretty sure i searched for "clumpy/lumpy/chunky/etc." static grass for the past few days on google and on this forum and only came upon my own thread and also couldnt find any reference as to which colors are the best for which types of grasses outside of the mundanly put "brown or green"
the process of it wasnt the big question more so the question of how i'm suppose to "dip" my base into something so lumpy that it actually halts the movement of the base in the basing material
hence why i then asked about methods for "sprinkling" the grass on, other than people simply telling me to do the method in such a way that the verb itself already does
i guess i was fishing for some more specific techniques because the ones i employed after reading online were resulting in pretty horrific failures
There are two ways to fix lumpy grass
1- put the lid back on and SHAKE THE LIVING HELL OUT OF IT
2- dump ALL of the grass out onto a sheet of foil or something that you can later pick-up and use to funnel the grass back into the container. Once it's out, use your fingers to break down the chunks that you see. Rubbing them apart should work too.
As for green or brown- if it's brown, any earthy brown would work. It's dirt, there's no specific color. If you were in some areas, you could paint it red for the clay. For the most part, you'll be covering the paint on the base.
Sprinkle the stuff on thick, really thick. Then tip off the excess, but into a DIFFERENT container. This will keep you away from clumpy messes.
Take your pack of grass...
dump it into a sandwich bag, gallon or pint.
let it all settle in the bottom and SLOWLY SLOWLY squeeze out all the air (too fast andyou'll have flying grass in the face)
Seal the bag.
Lay the bag down on the kitchen counter or flat surface.
Lay your hand flat on the bag,
wax on, wax off on the bag, smushing the grass and flattening out the "clumps."
once the clumps split up, find the clumps that won't separate... and pull them out
(they are clump of grass that something (water, glue, pva etc0 made them clump.)
this will keep your remaining grass from clumping.
HOW TO APPLY STATIC GRASS:
You will need a Noch Static Grass Applicator (puffer bottle), some Scatter Grip some Flock and a "Catcher Tray" (a large cardboard box or baking tray; We actually use an old pizza-baking tray)
The first thing to do is decide where you are going to apply your static grass and what colours you will use on your terrain/scenery. Bear in mind that if you want a natural look then you will want to use different shades of flock in patches, lighter shades on rough poor ground, ledges of ruins and darker green in low areas that would be wetter and better for growing. We also often leave some patches of bare ground showing through in areas just to give that extra "dimensional" aspect to the scenery.
Take the Puffer and fill it up to at least half full with the first colour of grass that you will use then screw the cap back on. Why the puffer bottle works better when somewhere between half and two thirds full I don't know - but it does work better!
Once you are happy with what is going where take the Scatter Grip and carefully poor out a small patch of the liquid onto the terrain. Then take a brush and paint the Scatter Grip over the area that is going to be covered. Be careful not to try to do too much at once, generally don't do an area any bigger in width that the Catcher Tray and not more than 6 inches by 6 inches square.
As the Scatter Grip is applied it may turn blue in colour, don't worry about this as it's perfectly normal and not a problem as it dries clear. Make sure that you don't get any of the Scatter Grip onto your fingers as this stuff is extremely sticky stuff and you will end up with flock all over your fingers. As soon as you have covered the area you are going to flock take your puffer bottle and shake it vigorously for about 30 seconds.
Put your terrain into or over the Catcher Tray and then take the lid off the puffer bottle upend it and very gently tap it so that flock falls into the top of the bottle. Now position the Puffer about 2-4 inches away from where the scatter grip has been applied and give the Puffer a hard squeeze. Repeat this about 3 or 4 times for each small area of the Scatter Grip so that there is so much flock that you can no longer see any of the glue.
Now put the bottle to one side and take the terrain and turn it upside down over the Catcher Tray. Shake it gently and tap the base so that you work off loose flock into the Catcher Tray (there should be lots of it) . Once you have removed this excess flock gently blow over the flock that is still attached whilst still holding the terrain upside down. Blowing has two functions: it removes more loose flock and it also encourages stuck flock to stand up on end. Try to ensure that the flock that falls from or is blown off the terrain goes into the Catcher Tray as this can all be reused latter.
You should now have an area of flock that is well covered and with lots of the flock standing up giving a good 3D effect. Remember that we aren't trying to make a perfectly vertical carpet of flock, the flock should be standing up at all sorts of angles looking like a fuzzy disheveled mass.
As you use the bottle you will get used to how surprisingly accurate you can be with it in covering small, distinct areas of terrain. Also how, by varying the action of squeezing, you can affect how much flock comes out. With practice you can apply flock in thick or thin covering, even allowing you to be able to mix two flocks directly onto the same glue (which is ideal for "blending" the edge areas where two types of flock meet each other).
Another key to applying light flock is using Scatter Grip rather than PVA glue or even Tacky Glue. This viscous liquid is incredibly sticky, far more so than Tacky Glue and this means that the lightest of applications of flock will still stick to it. As Scatter Grip retains its tackiness its also helps ensure that the flock stays attached. If you are worried that flock is wearing off, or might wear off, especially in areas of heavy use, then you can apply a fine mist of Scenic Cement (Matte Medium) over the flock once the Scatter Grip has dried, as this will further help bond the flock to the terrain.
Another advantage of Scatter Grip is that because it is a viscous liquid you can paint it into small areas with a paintbrush, this allows you to be extremely accurate with flock application around the edges of rocks, buildings, in between planks of wood even. It also flows smoothly meaning you can paint down an area much more easily than tacky glue and its higher level of tackiness makes it far more suitable to flocking than Matte Medium or Scenic Cement (Both of which fail badly in holding flock upright).
All in all the combination of Scatter Grip and the Static Grass Applicator makes for a simple means of application that almost guarantees a good quality of flocking when used correctly. It is cheap, easy to use and allows a level of control that surprises most people. It also makes application of large or small areas very simple and painless.
Whilst professional flocking machines may be the ultimate in flock application their high cost (generally <£100.00) rules them out for the majority of modellers. The puffer bottle, whilst it may not seem much, can actually make a massive difference to the quality of your flocking for a relatively tiny price.
Rome wasn't built in a day, Either should good scenery.
thank you very much sirs!
all it took was some whining and crying to get my answer
please dont hate me
i don't hate you because you needed to whine and cry for an answer.
that large dissertation..was found off GOOGLE with six clicks.
Rome wasn't built in a day, Either should good scenery.