Dark angels and Deathwing pointers needed - Warhammer 40K Fantasy
 

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  1. #1
    Interrogator-Chaplain pilot00's Avatar
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    459 (x8)

    Dark angels and Deathwing pointers needed

    Hello painting experts and rookies!

    I ve been fumbling lately with a few deathwing terminator old school models(i think they are from the second ed but still on sale the metal ones)Well now i have a problem and need your advice.I painted the models by base coating black primer then using kemri brown and then applyed bleached bone.Some guys told me to use white primer and then snakebite leather but that would be a little bit bright for an ancient armor so i used the first combination.So far so good i painted the entire min.Were the problem is?Well i need some advice concerning highlights.I cant seem to understand the proper procedure to highlight them.The same goes with the marines.I used skull white for some and it looked a little bit odd.

    So is there any good techniques for highlighting our minis?As i told before the same stands for the average marine(prime black and then DA green plus details)

    For refernces on the models i speak look check those(i dont have a camera right now but i think i will in a few days)

    DW termie: Dark Angel Deathwing Terminator | Games Workshop mine has a green chainfist and is a bit darker and a brown sword scabbard and no highlights.

    So as i said before ill need some pointers for the highlights thanks for your trouble.

    Praise be to the Emperor!!
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  3. #2
    Member p0lak's Avatar
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    99 (x2)

    Well i believe that the terminater is build up from either snake bits or bleach bone, Not to sure but looks more like Blaechbone. Well if you want to get the effect that that pic got you need to blend the colors.You color whole model bleach bone and then you add little white to the bone until you reach white.(the white should be usually on the edges.) If you go directly from bleach bone to white you will get a great contrast. Also for this to occur smoothly you need to add water to the paints to make them flow easier. Hope you get what im saying, if not hope some one else can.




    As you can see i didnt go strait to white from blue as it would look off and unatural.
    Last edited by p0lak; September 21st, 2009 at 02:55.
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  4. #3
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    49 (x1)

    I always thought dipping them would be the way to go for that bone white look. My dip has extra clear varnish and added to make it more translucent (shows more of the original colour).

    The folowing banshees were white gloss spray before being dipped then matt varnished.




  5. #4
    Interrogator-Chaplain pilot00's Avatar
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    459 (x8)

    Thanks both of guys i guess ill have to get that camera fixed next week and try to get some pics of them to show what i managed to do.My problem mainly consisted of were to do the highlights(what parts of the mini)But i think i got it now,your work looks awesome btw!

    P0lak did you use a layering technique for that robe?
    Dustand by dipping you mean that coat em and throw em in pot of bleached bone then wait to dry and pay the rest?
    Last edited by pilot00; September 21st, 2009 at 12:09.
    Praise be to the Emperor!!
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    49 (x1)

    Dipping is the lazy mans way of painting quickly. It wont win golden demons but it will get a fully painted and shaded army on the table as fast as you can basecoat the minis.

    The magic of it comes from a all in one varnish and stain (coloured varnish).

    You paint your figure in base colours, dip it into the tin of stain and shake or brush off the excess. Once it dries hit it with a coat of matt varnish, this last bit is very important as it kills the glossy look, and makes the model look alot better.

    Here is a before and after


    Here is more info:
    LO Dipping thread
    Tabletop-Terrain Dipping thread

  7. #6
    Interrogator-Chaplain pilot00's Avatar
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    459 (x8)

    Aha,thnx m8 i think i got it now.Does GW have any of those varnishes?Cause the only things i know of is the purity seal varnish and the washes.
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    GW doesnt sell it, you can visit any hardware store with a paint section. In NZ there is Wattyls Colourwood. Other places in the world sell miniwax polyshade and other products I cant recall the names of. The its a tined and labeled stuff called armypainter which looks like pre thinned tins of the stuff with a label and a website.

    You can make your own dip with clear varnish and tamia clear paint which come in a variety of colours. Mixing your own dip has 2 rules:
    1. You must use products with the same thinner
    2. The only pigments and tints you can use are ones that are intended to be clear.

    Rule one is like disolves like enamel and acrylic wont mix. Rule two you can use wood stain and as mentioned tamia clear enamels to tint varnish. If you try and mix regular paint into clear it will go funny cause, well I dont know what it would do but Its got something to do with rule one and having a clear medium for your pigments..

  9. #8
    Member p0lak's Avatar
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    99 (x2)

    Pilot i did do layering on that robe. You can probly find a tutorial here on this site, but if not i can run you a demo if youd like.
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