Welcome to Librarium Online!
Join our community of 80,000+ members and take part in the number one resource for Warhammer and Warhammer 40K discussion!
Registering gives you full access to take part in discussions, upload pictures, contact other members and search everything!
Hey guys, firstly i'd like to just thank everyone in the LO community for the fantastic forum you guys have here, and even in the incredibly short amount of time I have been a member, I have found inumerable tips and inspirational threads on here.
With that out of the way I'd like to ask two pretty embarrasingly novice questions...
Firstly, I have read much talk of 'washes'. My first attempt at this was in fact today, and I just thinned down chaos black a LOT and covered the entire blue surface of an ultramarines armour for a test. NOW this is actually kinda multuple questions in one...
a) what is the difference between inks and washes if any?
b) I worked the 'wash' into the cracks and crevises, and although the thinned mixture tends to run away from flat plates of armour, I still had to get a tissue wrapped around the end of a brush handle and remove excess and stop it from darkening everywhere on the armour. Is this normal? Am I not thinning the mix enough? Or am i being pedantic and a re-layering of the base coat is necessary?
c) should i in fact be using very dark blue not black for blue armour's shading?
Thanks in advance for any help.
Getting Started With Citadel Washes: Page 2 | Tutorials | Painting and Modelling Articles | Games Workshop
The wash should naturally pool in the recesses of the model; you don't need to push it there.
You never want to use something like black or white to highlight, unless that is part of a special theme you've created. Their contrasts are often too great, overpowering the model, instead of adding that "pop" that makes them look better. You should have used a dark blue, yes.
Ok- washes and inks are separate beasties but are often lumped together. A wash is a really thin coat of any paint designed to flow in to creases and create shading. An ink is a really high pigment, really thin paint (like.... ink) that can be used for all sorts of things but were often used as the core component in a wash and so were and are frequently referred to as 'washes'.
The current GW washes are just that- washes. They are not inks and don't behave like inks. The GW ones are formulated to flow nicely and provide a nice amount of tint without drowning the base colour. For rapid army painting they are gold- especially if combined with the foundation range of paints.
Now, you can produce a wash of your own with no difficulty and that's what most of us did before the new washes appeared and many of us still do. Like you did, thin the paint with water. I like to add a drop of dishwashing liquid to my water pot and then take the water from there. The soap helps break the surface tension and allow better flow (still not as good as the GW washes which are almost more of a gel than a liquid). Mixing your own washes let you create really fine colour changes and go to town on your shading. It will take longer to do though but if you're after high-end painting it's probably the way to go.
I love washes, especially for working with metallics where I find they really strengthen the colours and get rid of the plasticky look of unwashed metals. They're great for corrosion and aging too.
From what you've said you seem to be using washes more or less correctly but I'd try and steer clear of black as a wash. Shadows are rarely black- they're usually a darker shade of whatever they are cast on to, so your shading should use the same idea. If you're shading blue then use a darker blue wash, like you suggested. Or maybe a purple to make the blue more sinister if that's what you're after.
The problem with too much wash and darkening the whole field of the armour is for two reasons- one, you're using heaps of wash (that's fine) and there's nothing wrong with then using a tissue to draw the excess off. Secondly, marine armour is often large fields of flat or smoothly curving plates. These are just the wrong thing to use washes on. If you want to use them, try and paint them directly in to the armour creases. Try Asurmen Blue for this and use less wash.
Don't forget that marine colours are pretty much heraldry, so you want really strong colours across the armour. Try and get big blocks of the base colour and then really fine shading and highlighting. It makes the army look great on the battlefield but is easily ruined by messy shading.
Hope this helps!
No more NG spearmen, thanks! Now I need some pump-wagons!
1) Do NOT go from palette/pot/whatever straight to the model. You must BLOT your brush! By that, I mean have a folded paper towel or something nearby, and dab the brush on that first, "wicking" away some of the fluid, THEN hit the model. Yes, that's a tad wasteful, but when you hit the model you will find it MUCH easier to handle. Bringing your brush over with a swollen droplet of wash dangling from it means the stuff is going to go E-V-E-R-Y-W-H-E-R-E, which you do not want.
2) Remember not to just "slather it on." If you're worried about getting it in places you don't want it, then... don't put it there. Think about WHERE you want the wash to go. If you just want it in the cracks, then apply it in the area of the cracks, instead of just slapping it on and letting gravity do the rest. This will cut down on the "clean-up" work you have to do later.
Remember that SOME clean-up work is inevitable, even if it's only to make the transition line smooth. You will probably need to go back with your main color and "neaten up" in spots, but the above steps will help quite a bit.
One last thing: While it's true that straight black (or brown) is not always the best wash color, experience is the best teacher here. As much as I've tried to match wash colors to my paint, I often find that going back to good 'ol black gets me the best results. Also, consider MIXING washes. Even the famous GW washes can be mixed. Try mixing blue WITH black, and see what you get for a wash. Don't be afraid to experiment!
I've used black washes on power armour to good effect on my own marines, but then I suppose I do need darker shading on mine since the base colour (red gore) is a fairly dark colour itself. The black wash works really well with that. For shading ultramarine blue I agree it could be a bit too extreme, but I don't think a straight asurmen blue wash would be dark enough. So I think perhaps mixing the black and blue washes, or creating your own wash from one of the dark blue paints might be the way to go.
Canew, when I use my washes I never blot any off, I just don't get so much on the brush in the first place! I've actually gotten quite accurate now at only getting the right amount of paint/wash onto my brush straight out of the pot, as I do all my painting straight out of the pot.
I know a lot of people are now going to tell me that I'm doing it wrong, that my paint is too thick and so on, but I find that as long as I'm painting with a fairly wet brush it works fine, and achieves good results. I hate the idea of wasting paint by using a palette (inevitably you won't use all the paint that you put onto the palette) unless I need to use one for mixing my own colour.
Thou shalt remember:
Warhammer Fantasy armies do NOT have Codices. They have Army Books.
LINK - Guitarists of LO Group
wow guys thanks a ton for all this great advice, the dark blue is creating some interesting effects, and using a secondary darker wash more sp[aringly is working nicely too.