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I was skimming my Forces of Warmachine: Khador book... inside there, they have a couple nice painting tutorials, but I'm having some trouble grasping some of the concepts within, so I though I'd bring my questions here.
The image on the left is the base coat. Step 2, which is the image on the right, is described thus:
"Use Sanguine Base for the first layer of shading. Apply the paint thin and blend it into the recesses and shadows".
This is all very well and good, but I really have no idea how to properly execute that. In the past, every time I've tried to achieve a gradienting effect like this on a model, but it always either ends up too heavy-handed (meaning, a blob of color with a clear edge between the 'shade' color and the brighter base color), or it pools strangely and dries unevenly. The closest thing I've found to simulate this effect might be Citadel's washes, but when you brush that stuff on, you can clearly see the edge or boundary between "area that got washed" and "area that did not get washed".
I'm hoping to get some advice as to proper shading technique so I could duplicate something like the above. I've tried feathering paints out with a wet brush, but the problem I always have is that as I introduce even a tiny bit of water to the paint, it starts to run and get a bit out of hand, and I have trouble controlling it.
Anyone have sage advice?
Note that I'm not looking to actually paint red on the models I'm working on, I'm doing a white color that I need to shade with grey, but my question is more about the technique than the particular colors.
If your washes dry unevenly (making a ring of darker paint, with the centre almost untouched) put a drop of dish washing detergent on a paintbrush and mix it straight into the pot. This breaks the surface tension of the paint and makes it dry evenly.
Now to conventional shading... So you have the basecoat painted and dry. Mix your shade and basecoat at about 10:1 and water it down so it's milky, not waterey, there's a difference. Then paint the mix into the shadows and recesses, and since you're using white, use it liberally. Give it a few coats so the transition is smooth. Then mix in a bit more of the shading colour and repeat the process using less and less paint each time. Then use the pure (but watered down) shadow colour in only the deepest recesses and shadows (eg. a thin line between armour plates).
Hope it helpes!
I've seen this done on YouTube (don't ask. Long since forgotten where!), and it looked like a wet-blending or "feathering" technique. Basically, you paint it on with one brush, then use a damp but clean second brush to "pull" the color in one direction. It takes time, practice and patience to get it right, and I might add that P3 paints have a liquid-based pigment, which might make it easier to use this technique on. Do some Google-Fu for "feathering" techniques and you'll see what I mean.
Applying a citadel wash such as Baal red to your orange shoulder pad can be done to get a graded effect. You are right that applying the wash to part of the area will result in a definate line and possibly a tide mark.
The trick is to wet the whole sholderpad with water then quickly add the wash to one corner and alow it to perculate outwards. Watering down the wash slightly can improve the flow rate as can moving the wash about and feathering it out with a brush.
Quorn! - Protein for the Protein God.
This is a warmachine tutorial, and the guys down at Privateer Press use Two Brush Blending as their go to technique. One brush applies the paint, the second one helps you blend.
The way that you would achieve this is to thin down the paint with some water, and apply it to the darkest parts of the mini.
The next step, you take your second brush and gently push the paint towards the areas you want it blended with. Do this until you have a strong gradiant between the two colors.
You can use the same technique when applying highlight layers- use the second brush to blend the two colors together.
This takes some practice to know exactly how thin you want your paints, and how quickly you need to work. But practice makes everything work better.