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I recently bought a chaplain with jump pack model and I'm wondering what the best way to glue the model together would be. It's my first metal model and I'd rather avoid pinning if possible (partly because I don't want to fork out the money for a pin-vice and I'm almost positive I'll mess it up horribly), so is there a particularly strong superglue I could buy at a hardware store or would it be best if I shell out for some Filla-Glu, which I've seen used in a couple of Beasts of War build videos on YouTube and they've said that if you use the stuff properly then the resin would fail before the glue (he said that in a build video for the Heirophant model but he used the same stuff in a build video of a Hive Tyrant).
The problem is that I don't know if I'll be getting enough metal models in the near-future to warrant buying filla-glu. Not needing the metal Sternguard models, since I'll be making my own Sterguard out of Dark Angels veterans, can't think of any other metal kits I'd use in a Codex Marines army although I'm sure there's a special character or two who'd work well for me but I don't think I've got enough of an army worked out to warrant getting a special character anytime soon.
So does anyone know of any good metal-gluing methods that don't involve pinning or green stuff or would Filla-Glu be my best bet?
Shell out the 7 dollars for a pin vice. I've used mine for more then just modeling. For example, I bought a nice case for my computer and a pin to attach the door was broken. Instead of waiting another 2 weeks to get a new piece I pinned it back together and it works just like new. Also, I've used my pin vice on plastic models and most recently to poke holes in the tip of all my Sisters of Battle's bolters so I can blacken the inside of the barrel. You'll find lots of uses on vehicles plastic or not.
Well I might get a pin-vice later on for the barrels of heavy bolters and such (maybe for the meltagun I've got one marine holding) but - and you can call me lazy for this - I don't think I'll bother doing regular bolters or bolt pistols. While I'll most likely get a vice in the future, I'd still rather not have to pin metal models if I can avoid it: it's one thing to drill out the barrel of a weapon, but it's another to try and do something like pinning pieces together and I'm certain I'll ruin the parts trying to pin.
As far as super-glues go, I use Zap-A-Gap and Gorilla Glue branded super-glue. I use them for all my metal and plastic models (I just prefer not to use plastic glue) and they work really well for both. Super glue is also just another useful thing to have around the house, and both of the above brands come in nice bottles that allow for maximum control. Always remember less is more, with super glue. Don't use too much. It will be fine for most of the joins of metal models.
HOWEVER, I would definitely recommend getting a pin-vice; it's a solid investment, and is quite easy to use. Once you jump in, you'll see that it's pretty hard to mess up the model. I only really use pinning for pieces that you look at and say, "Gee, I hope I don't knock that off soon." Like places where there is not a lot of contact between the two pieces. Nothing is more infuriating than accidentally knocking a painted model off a table, and having to repaint the area between the pieces, possibly leaving some ugly "scarring." It's well worth learning to use.
While on the topic, I'd HIGHLY recommend learning to use green stuff, as it's fun, relatively easy (for gap filling and reinforcement). And as for "messing up" your models... you can never really mess up models if you can sculpt the detail back on!
A good way to lower pinning stress (and error rate) is to drill out the first hole and glue in the pin, then put a thin layer of sticky tac on the joint surface of the other piece. Then, you can press the two pieces together the way you want them to sit, and the pin will leave a little mark in the sticky tac just where you'll need to make the hole for it. You can score out a little guide mark with the end of a knife, right through the tac, and then after you peel the tac off you're good to go.
You only need to drill out maybe 2mm at most on either piece, there's no need to go deep enough to start compromising any structural integrity. With the sticky tac thing to make sure your holes line up, there's really nowhere to go wrong. Anyway, worst case, you clip off the pin and you're no further behind.
To be honest, I just don't like the idea of pinning and while this chaplain is probably going to be the only metal model I get for a while, I'd rather not go to that sort of trouble. Oh, I'll get a pin vice eventually, but just to drill out heavy bolter barrels (and probably meltagun ones too). I'm thinking I'll get the Filla-Glu since a friend of mine is building a Necron army and with how many of their units are metal, he might be able to use something like that. And if it turns out the stuff doesn't work as well as I've heard, then I'll have to pin it.
Call me lazy, but I'd rather avoid pinning if possible. Also, illbeinyourband; why don't you like to use plastic glue? I've been using plastic glue and it works like a charm. Only problem I've had is with my Assault Sarge's powerfist arm only being connected along the lower part of the shoulder and that was entirely user error (glued the pauldron to the arm before gluing the arm to the torso; a mistake I won't be making again).
Just a personal preference. I started out assembling models with super glue. I play Chaos Daemons, which has a few too many metal models, so I just used my super glue with my plastics. Then, it was ignorance, but now I have my reasons for preferring super glue.
I did somewhat recently get a bottle of plastic glue. It was fine, and I went through the entire thing, just to use it up. I just think super glue works about as well, as far as strength on plastics. It sets much faster than plastic glue. And I like knowing that if I really want to break apart my models to repose when building and converting, or when stripping paint, I can (I know I've gotten models from eBay that needed reposing, and I really appreciated that they were super-glued; Simple Green helps deteriorate the glue bond as well as strip the paint).
No experience with filla-glu here. I'd expect you to be fine, in any case. Even pinned models can only withstand so much of a beating, just be careful
Fair enough with the super glue over plastics, but I haven't had any trouble with the normal stuff taking ages to set. About five or ten seconds and the bond's strong enough to hold a marine's arm on and that might just be me being a bit cautious. Were you using the GW-brand plastic glue or another sort? I've been using this stuff from Revell called Contacta Professional and haven't had any problems (except for that one instance of the needle getting clogged, but if you get a lighter and hold the needle in the flame for a bit to melt the glue, it works fine).
I'll post here with how the filla-glu works out for anyone curious, but if its even half as strong as John made it sound in the Heirophant build video then it should be more than strong enough. Plus it's kind of thick so there's no risk of me accidentally getting any on my hands and having to pay the hospital a visit with a chaplain on my thumb.
Personally, I hate plastic glue, trust me after a while you will want super-glue, especially if you buy second hand stuff. Nothing worse then getting stuff and half of its melted because of crappy glue application.
I would whole-heartly suggest getting a pin-vice, the store by my house sells them for like 5-7 bucks. Just be careful while drilling, don't drill on a angle or you can put to much stress on the bit and snap it =o[. Also I find the BoW guys cheep GW fan-boi shills. Avoid them honestly.
If you want to take the lazy way and just GS the joint go for it, when it falls off just don't whinge to us please.
FluffMaster on a mission to turn people to the Sisters of battle, yes folks it's all about SoB squads in Repressors with lots of flamer templates for the win.