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Alright so i wanted to start playing 40k with some of my friends so i went to my local gaming store and browsed around. I decided i wanted to play tau but before i bought anything i believed it would be more appropriate to buy some of the cheapest models and start painting. I bought a standard brush and 3 space marines and was going to get some citadel paints but my dad, who i despise in every way, had made model cars for about 2 months in his childhood he was set in believing i was wrong to get paints here and took my to an art store where we bought many CHEAP brushes that weren't for plastic painting cement glue, Testor's enamel paints and black plastic primer. So i get home and try to assemble the space marines and lo and behold their cheap versions to. So each marine has 3 parts body, pack, gun. The backpack works but the gun goes in and doesn't match up with his other hand! so i take it out and the piece breaks so i tried to file it out and glue them together but theres too much space in between. So i basically just though screw this and started priming my old army soldiers and slept while they primed and when i woke up about 30 mins ago i saw this forum and discovered that Testor's paints arnt good for miniatures. DX so i have a question how do i thin out the paints without melting the models? and What should i do to fix the minis?
tell your dad "I told you so." then make him buy you the good stuff.
Testors makes a thinner for their enamel paints. I personally love the Testors Model Master series (they have both Acrylic and Petroleum based).
Testors ? Clears, Thinners & More ? Thinners ? Enamel Paints
I would suggest just testing which works best for you. Of course it's easier to add thinner, so start with more paint then gradually add thinner until you're happy with the result.
It is also best to spray paint a primer or other base coat on first. Then your actual colors will go on much easier.
Also, DO NOT THIN THE PAINT IN THE POT! Screw it up once and you've wrecked the whole pot. Transfer a bit out of the pot onto a palette of some sort (a plastic container lid works nicely), and thin it there.
Enamels are perfectly fine for miniature use, you just need to be more cautious in their use than with the acrylics. 50/50 is a bit extreme for a starting ratio, start at something like 80/20 or so and thin things further until you get a nice smooth paint that still covers well. Be aware that enamels need to be left alone for at least a few hours to cure before painting over them - put fresh paint and thinner on before the previous coat's ready and the underlying paint may dissolve into the new paint!
Thanks guys rep up for all!
I'll jump in real quick. How has it worked out for you so far?
I've long used enamels for model cars and would not want to use them on miniatures. They are great for solid colors, but trying to thin them just right and work with them is harder than using an acrylic.
First off the acrylics dry much faster. This means you can base 5 models and by the time you base the last model, you can start on your next step. With an enamel, you usually have to wait several hours before painting again. Secondly, enamels are bad for your lungs. Miniature painting is a long endevour, I usually spend several hours painting. Also, Testor's enamels are very thick and must be thinned with acetone or their thinner (looking at spending 8 more dollars right there.) To finish off my list, they also leave a glossy finish which will need to be sprayed clear matte after you are done painting. This is a long time to be exposed to enamel fumes. People that use air brushes and enamels have masks they wear, which you may need.
The Model Master Acryl series is great, but they are not any cheaper than buying GW paints.
Those basic 3 part marines you got should have different arm positions.. The gun not matching to one, should match to another... You need to test the fit by trying to match them up before fixing them together..