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Well, I'm working on repainting my Chaos Warriors now that I need to paint my infantry and switch a few marks.
I was considering the standard blue/purple scheme:
1. black basecoat
2. blue armor
3. black inking with lighter blue highlights
4. 50/50 black-purple glazing to blend it all together, darken it up and give it a purple tint.
But then I saw these...
CoolMiniOrNot - Araldo di Tzeentch -Gold at "Trofeo Grog" 2008- by Raffaele Stumpo
CoolMiniOrNot - Chosen of Tzeentch by Bloodmaster
I know that they've gone with NMM on the metalic parts, which I'm fine with. What I'm interested in is that very subtle color shift in the armor (mint to purple and blue to purple) and the way that everything seems so... muted(?). Not sure if that's the word to describe it. Either way, it's a big change from this, which is more akin to what I'd probably turn out.
So I come to you, great masters of paint, and ask you how I too could strive to achieve this feat of artistic greatness.
Thats a very subtle effect thats been achieved, and if you want to recreate that it'll take time. It certainly won't be an army that you can just knock out. I'm not 100% sure how they've got that effect, but they've obviously used blending very effectively. Now, what I would suggest first and formost is to experiment a bit yourself, just to see what you can come up with. The NNM is an obvious place to start to get the effect, but you could try mixing in small amounts of ink in each layer. It looks more like the 'muted' colours have been slowly built up through a series of layers rather that just having a 'tint' applied at the end.
The colour shift could be achieved by a mix of blending and shading. But, having never done attempted this technique on such a scale, this is mostly guess-work. Some one else may be able to give you better advice, but what I can definitely say is do some practice, and be prepared to take a lot of time over it.
Hope this helps.
Ok, so I went and found it on the CMoN forums. It's a technique called wet blending, and you're right, it takes more time than I'm used to, but not too terribly long. I think it's a worthwhile trade.
They linked me to a tutorial where a guy was painting a trollblood- great tutorial really. However, he based the trollblood white, and then used a light shade of mint for his median color. The entire finished product was very light altogether. For darker models (like the ones in the pictures), what should I use to base the model? If I stay with white, I would still work just fine, but I think that it would probably take much longer than if I used a slightly darker base. Black would be folly, because you need a color that is still lighter than your median. Would a gray work, or would it show through the colors and muck it all up somehow?
No problem Khaos1ord. From what I've seen on the CMoN boards, this is supposedly the best tutorial for wet blending. Not because it is the most detailed or most advanced, but because it is the simplest and most straight forward. Here's the link:
How to blend by olliekickflip - Reaper Message Board
Pyromaniac- yep, I am referring to that chalky look. It's definitely more noticeable in the second link, because the shots are much closer. I think (again, I'm not the expert, I'm actually looking for one) that there could be a two reasons that the paint looks a bit chalky.
1. It's the cameras or our computers (or both) pixellating the picture. So you can sort of see the "dots"
2. No paint ever lays down entirely smooth, even if you sand it a bit like the tutorial says. It's porous, and that's what helps subsequent layers stick. Using such a small amount of paint means that more pigment collects in the pores, and it's noticeable through the thin coats.
Like I said- I'm nowhere near and expert, and if an expert could jump in here and help me with my basecoat question or even tell me that this is not wet-blending, I would really appreciate it.
And oh, Rep to ChadMS for mentioning blending. It's what I searched for when I found the tutorial.
Thats a pretty nice tutorial, and as before I'd just suggest giving it a go. Try it on one chaos warrior, and see if you like what turns out. If you do, great! If not...well, you can always try something else.
For the chalky look, I'd guess it's the second reason you suggested. I used blending to paint an Imperial Fists marine once, and built up paint over about 12 different layers. The end result did look a little chalky, and as you said it could have been something to do with the pores. It could also have been something to do with the pigment-water ratio, as during blending you use significantly less paint, but a similar amount of water.
For the basecoat... well, I'm not really an expert either, but what I have found is that light colours can always be made darker. It is a lot harder however, to make dark colours lighter. White is a safe option, and is neutral so shouldn't affect subsequant layers. Grey could set the 'tone' for all the layers of paint, and could clash horribly with colours such as red and yellow. I've never really heard of people basecoating their models grey, and there's most likely a reason for it. You also have to remember that when you are blending, the basecoat will be the thickest layer, so will have an effect on the thinner layers that go on top of it.
But as I said, just have a go at the technique and see what happens. Post some pics up here as well so we can see how it went
And thanks for the rep.
Some of my dull coat mistakes tend to look like that as well. I'll post some pictures in a few days and see if we can brainstorm them into something usable.
If you're putting down super thin layers of paint (too thin for surface tension), you can use a very watered down coat of off-white (bleached bone) or light grey to pale down colours and get a hint of haziness on their surface. Seems like that would help with both effects you like?
Last edited by jumai; July 16th, 2010 at 16:41.
Yes, you are looking at some extremely good blending there. THe other thing you need to notice is that it is a smooth and fairly even transition with a very high contrast. So, high contrast + smooth transitions = impressive finished product.
Now, if you are accustomed to doing a basecoat, inkwash and hard edge highlighting, this is going to be a new skill for you. Start out with the darkest color you want on the mini, and work your way up to a much lighter color in small steps.
Make sure you thin your paints down (thinned paints show a little of the color underneath them, and that is essential for this sort of layering). And do tons of layers, each one a little smaller than the last until you are only painting the area you would have hard edged before.
There are some things you might need to practice. Getting your highlighting lines to shrink at the right speed is something important to this process- and it is likely that you'll make them uneven in your first outing. So practice, and concentrate.