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Thread: Faces

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    what is a good way to paint UM faces, im having trouble with washes and im wondering if there is another way. im running out of simple green and tired of missed attempts.


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    A fast and easy way that will look decent in the battlefield is to paint the face the color of the skin u want, and then adding a flesh wash "wash" and then after it dries drybrush the face with the skin tone again, thats it,it won make u win any golden deamons but will look good on the tabletop.
    By the way, why do u need green to paint UM faces ??

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    Originally posted by Green eggs & ham@Sep 23 2004, 22:16
    By the way, why do u need green to paint UM faces ??
    [snapback]218307[/snapback]
    Simple Green is a cleaning fluid used to strip paint off miniatures.

    What exactly is going wrong with your faces? What is it you don't like about the results?

    Most people who paint a base color, wash, and then highlight, have problems with the wash. It doesn't flow into the recesses properly and just makes a brown mess of the face.

    The way I paint faces is very similar to Green eggs & ham. I paint a base color, then wash the face. The wash depends on the color of the skin, but I tend to brown for most human faces. Don't use full strength ink. Thin the ink with a mixture of water and clear acrylic floor wax (Future is one US brand). I like a 50/50% mix. I also like to add several drops of flow enhancer you can get at most art or hobby stores that sell acrylic artist's paints.

    You can also add retarders to keep the wash from drying too fast, so it has more time to flow. My personal mix is 4 parts Testors Acryl Thinner or Liquitex Flow Aid, 1 part Liquitex Slow Dri retarder, 3 parts Future floor wax (makes the finish a little harder) and 2 parts water (extends the mix without any ill effect in small amounts). As one ounce parts I mix up a 10 oz bottle with a tiny spout for use during painting.

    After the wash is COMPLETELY dry, then paint the highlights. For a rank and file troop I just paint a little of the base color on the bridge of the nose, cheeks, and chin.

    If I'm working on a more detailed mini, lord, hero, etc, then I'll paint a few layers of highlighting with a second wash after the first two highlights. I add more layers by taking a slightly lighter shade of the base and painting the raised areas lightly. Start with a shade only slightly lighter than the base, and paint 90% of the raised area. Then lighten the shade some more and paint about 50% of the area, only on the higher portions of the raised area. Finally, using the lightest shade of the base color, paint about 10% (the highest portion) of the raised area. Depending on your skill and patience, you can use one or more applications of highlight colors. What I just described is a three-layer highlight. When lightening the paint, try not to use white. Use a lighter color of the base color instead. It will look much better. You can add a little white for the final highlight color.

    For faces, highlight the chin, nose, and cheeks. For hands go along the backs and each finger. For other detail, robes, armor, skulls, and equipment, pick the spots that should show up best and give them the lightest highlights. It's common to highlight twice, each time getting lighter in tone and finer in line. A bit of blending is required to keep things looking natural. Simply keep a damp brush handy and brush the wet paint very lightly toward the darker areas. Again, this technique takes practice, but is worth the effort when the miniature is completed.

    Don't make the wash too dark or use too much. It's easy to add another wash, but much harder to take off too much. Try a light wash of very thinned color and paint the highlights. If its too light and the shadows don't show enought, then add another wash. Re-highlight. You can was a highlight many times without problems as long as you keep your paint thin and don't build up a lumpy layered face.

    If its different problems, try and describe the problem in more detail.

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