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Hey guys, I've just ordered a couple of models from forge world and was just wondering if anyway had a bit of advice about what to expect from resins. I guess mostly I'm interested in what type of glue works best and whether pinning is a must. But hey, anything else you think would be useful to know and I'm all ears.....obviously not literally.
I'm also interested in this. I have some resin pieces on the way and I want to make the most of them.
Hey guys. Ok, here is a bsic run down of what to do with resin and what yur likly to get.
First thing: DO NOT FILE THE RESIN!!!! This is the most important thing to remember when you get your resin and you need to clean up any flash or want to convert it in any way. Resin dust is really not good for you to breath in. If you HAVE to use a file, do it in a well ventilated area and use a breath mask. Using a modeling knife is fine but it will take a bit longer. Don't use a hobby saw either for the same reasons as the file.
First thing to do when you get any resin kit (FW or otherwise) is to clean all the parts in warm soapy water. Dip the parts in the water and use an old toothbrush or whatever to brush down then parts. Be careful with any fine detail. The reason for doing this is the releasing agent used to get the parts out of the moulds if very oily and normally a lot of residue is left on the resin. If you don't clean the parts and you try to paint them the paint will bead and not hold to the model.
Depending on what parts you get some of the pieces may be warped slightly. This really only happens with thin stuff like Extra armour for tanks or long gun barrels and such. This is easily fixed but dipping the parts in warm-hot water for a little to soften up the resin. You can then take the part out and gently try to bend it back into shape. Don't force it as it may brake; resin is very brittle. When you've moved it a bit, dip it in cold water so it stays in the new shape. You may have to repeat this process a few times depending on how bad the warping is.
As for fixing resin its the same as with metal or plastic modles. Super glue is good and you can pin parts as needed. Using a pin-vice is ok as it doesn't create fine dust like the file and saw do.
Thats all the basics for using resin. In most respects its just like using metal or plastic kits. If you have full-resin kits, like titans or complete tanks, be careful not to drop them on a hard surface. As I said resin can be very brittle and so has a tendancy to shatter rather than just snap at glue-joins.
Hope this has helped guys
Agreed with the wisdon shared by Monkey. The filing/sanding bit is important. However, you will find you need to do some filing with certain parts. Use a face mask and also do the filing slowly so the dust doesn't get airborn.
With some of the pieces I've worked on over the years I've found plenty of small air holes or gaps at joints. Humbrol make a great green filler for these problems and the liquid superglue (as opposed to the gel) is brilliant as a filler for smaller gaps.
It's a very good idea to pin larger or load bearing parts too.
Agree with the comments above. Pay special attention to pinning. Personally I pretty much pin everything that is big enough to take a pin (but then I do this for metal as well) as you really don't want you're expensive model falling apart. I use 1mm copper wire and 2mm brass rod for this.
What models are you expecting? Some of us will have experience in the specific models you have.
Check out my Blog for my Biel-Tan Apocalypse progress
Not to get out of topic but what do you mean by pinning,i am not sure i understand.You use pins to keep the model still while filing or gluing it?
Praise be to the Emperor!!
Here is a WIP for a FW Lord of Change I did a while back. It shows some pinning on the first page.
LORD OF CHANGE (Forge World Lord Of Change Greater Daemon Commission)
Thanks for the replies guys. Some great advice, and yup, i'm a great advocate of pinning. The models i'm getting atm are the Eldar Phoenix, and Nightwing. Then early next year i'll be getting a Revanant Titan. So yeah, if you have any model specific advice then keep em coming.
5 minute epoxy. Superglue tends to fail under shearing loads, but epoxy will usually be tougher than the resin it's bonding. It's somewhat messy and rather unsuitable for attaching detail parts, but for main structural components, I'm looking for strength above all else.
Daziel mentioned using brass rod for larger pins earlier and I agree totally - again, major parts need strength, so I'm not relying on paperclips if I can sink a good 1/8" of brass through the joint.