Advise need on dry brussing - Warhammer 40K Fantasy
 

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  1. #1
    Interrogator-Chaplain pilot00's Avatar
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    459 (x8)

    Advise need on dry brussing

    Now i had almost a year to paint a mini.So today i resumed after a long time.The thing is i got rusty.I tried to paint the old DA model chaplain Asmodai.What i was planing on doing was thisrime him black,give him a snakebite leather on the robe and then dry brush it with bleached bone and then skull white.So i did.The result was horrible.I have a feeling the brush i used was not good enough.I know most ppl say to use old bruses but if you check my old ones you will feel so sorry for them you might want to gift me one out of pitty!

    So one question is thiso you think the colours i used are right?Do you believe i need more dry brushing layers for it to look better,or should i just strip him and try something else entirely?

    Also asside from the Gw brushes anyone has any ideas of a brush to use for this kind of job?Model manufacturer etc?

    Praise be to the Emperor!!
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  3. #2
    Junior Member Acez's Avatar
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    In my opinion, dry brushing that type of detail will guarantee the result to look bad. But as for the brush you used, it will make all the difference. The new GW dry brushes are 30% nylon fibres to give it some stiffness to the brush and that is key. Even tho people say use old brushes, you still want brushes with fairly short bristles too, so that it stiffens up them up. Now I don't know if you even did the technique right, but remember to use only the paint from the pot(no water, and make sure the paint brush is COMPLETELY dry), put some paint on the brush, and then run the brush over a paper towel until pretty much nothing is coming off the brush anymore.

    However, as i mentioned, drybrushing probably shouldnt be used for that detail because it's going to leave it blotchy. Drybrushing is best used over metalics or for details that are close together and you only want to higlight the top edges, such as chainmail, hair, etc.

    My suggestion to help you finish this minis robe is to put the snakebite back over the entire robe, and thin the bleached down to a 3:1 ratio of water to paint. Now by leaving the cracks/folds of the robes the snakebite, start to paint the outter folds(the ones that stick up) with thin coats of bleached bone. Start about half way down the recesses and work your way up for the first coat, then go 3/4 of the way up for the 2nd coat, and by that time you should a good looking highlight.

    Hope that helped.
    Check out Double Edged Painting blog for more information on commissions and work in progress



  4. #3
    Interrogator-Chaplain pilot00's Avatar
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    459 (x8)

    Quote Originally Posted by Acez View Post
    In my opinion, dry brushing that type of detail will guarantee the result to look bad. But as for the brush you used, it will make all the difference. The new GW dry brushes are 30% nylon fibres to give it some stiffness to the brush and that is key. Even tho people say use old brushes, you still want brushes with fairly short bristles too, so that it stiffens up them up. Now I don't know if you even did the technique right, but remember to use only the paint from the pot(no water, and make sure the paint brush is COMPLETELY dry), put some paint on the brush, and then run the brush over a paper towel until pretty much nothing is coming off the brush anymore.

    However, as i mentioned, drybrushing probably shouldnt be used for that detail because it's going to leave it blotchy. Drybrushing is best used over metalics or for details that are close together and you only want to higlight the top edges, such as chainmail, hair, etc.

    My suggestion to help you finish this minis robe is to put the snakebite back over the entire robe, and thin the bleached down to a 3:1 ratio of water to paint. Now by leaving the cracks/folds of the robes the snakebite, start to paint the outter folds(the ones that stick up) with thin coats of bleached bone. Start about half way down the recesses and work your way up for the first coat, then go 3/4 of the way up for the 2nd coat, and by that time you should a good looking highlight.

    Hope that helped.

    It indeed helped a lot my friend.Ill do just that a little layer at the time.Ill strip the thing tomorow and let you know how i fared.
    Praise be to the Emperor!!
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  5. #4
    Junior Member Acez's Avatar
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    You probably dont even need to strip it. Unless the paint on the robe at the moment is really blotchy and thick, you should be able to cover it right back over with the snakebite and not see any difference. Thats the best part of most painting, is it is forgiving.
    Check out Double Edged Painting blog for more information on commissions and work in progress



  6. #5
    Senior Member MarxusTharin's Avatar
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    Drybrushing works best on lots of tiny detail that is close together. It doesn't work very well on smooth surfaces. You need texture.

    Drybrushing is the result of whipping most of the paint off the brush, and dragging it across texture. The raised texture grabs the paint off the brush.

    You will not get that result with smooth surfaces.

    About all I drybrush now, is chainmail.

  7. #6
    Interrogator-Chaplain pilot00's Avatar
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    459 (x8)

    Quote Originally Posted by MarxusTharin View Post
    Drybrushing works best on lots of tiny detail that is close together. It doesn't work very well on smooth surfaces. You need texture.

    Drybrushing is the result of whipping most of the paint off the brush, and dragging it across texture. The raised texture grabs the paint off the brush.

    You will not get that result with smooth surfaces.

    About all I drybrush now, is chainmail.
    The idea came to me when i used as an experiment on Ezekiels robes and you know what they become too good.I just cant seem to replicate this after so long a time so i think i must be mking a mistake.
    Praise be to the Emperor!!
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  8. #7
    Slightly Right of Left MrDee's Avatar
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    personally I would never drybrush cloth....I would feel dirty, always layer, glaze or wetblend it.

    But when I do drybrush I use the flat brushes from the Windsor and Newton Cotman range, they aren't that expensive asthey are synthetic, they last as long as you make sure you clean them and condition them (love your brushes and they will love you!) and you don't drybrush like some hamfisted retard
    If you try and fail......TRY HARDER
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  9. #8
    Cat-Herder Extraordinaire Meph's Avatar
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    Well, I've grown to really like GW's drybrushes, they've good a good shape and softness. Lately I've noticed that I like to drybrush as much as possible, but to do it gently and with very, veryu dry brushes. I just dab on some paint, then stroke off as much while at the same time making sure the paint goes through all the brush hairs (mind you, still just dip the tip of the brush as getting paint in it all the way up is just a waste of paint.)
    Next I 'drybrush' the brush on a cloth untill no paint is coming off of it, a quick doubble-check on the meat of your thumb to check that you only have the faintest trace of paint on your skin, then, you're good to go on the model.
    When your brush is too damp by just the tiniest bit, then you usually end up with messy streaks.

  10. #9
    Interrogator-Chaplain pilot00's Avatar
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    459 (x8)

    Well guys thank you a lot,today i hadnt had the time to go get ane brush,hopefully tomorow.Ill give it a layering try though.I have tried only once or two with mixed results.Keep your fingers crossed!
    Praise be to the Emperor!!
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  11. #10
    Egg Head Miniatures:fbook And Justice For All's Avatar
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    Like Mr Dee has suggeted, there is a time and a place for dry brushing and it is a very important skill to master. Pretty much everything said is spot on so far. I especially agree with the Windsor and Newton brushes. I use flat NEW brushes to dry brush with. Look after them and they last ages.

    A tip for you. Once you have cleaned the paint of the brush with a kitchen towel, flick the brush back and forth over your thumb nail. If the deformaties and scratches are only just getting picked up by the paint then the brush is ready to use on a model.

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