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a redshirt told me that a good way to protect my models with a matt finish was with "testors dullcote". so i go down to a model railway store and ask for it and the guy there gives me this stuff, and i specifically asked "is it safe to use this on acrillic paint?" to which this wanker says "yes you can"..... so i get home and when i open it, it stinks like turps. upon closer inspection the bottle says LACQUER. so I take it back and the asshole wont give me my money back. despite telling me that it wouldn't strip the paint off my models and then he continued to insist that it wont strip the paint. I went home with it after a heated debate with the stupid old man at the train store and when i painted it on an old test model, lo and behold it striped the paint. now im considering going to his shop and applying some to his display railway....
on another note, whats a good matt varnish i can use to seal my models
edit never mind, testors makes an acrillic one. old guys just dont like selling it to me apparently
Last edited by Roboute Guilliman; January 24th, 2011 at 11:28.
Testors Dullcote is indeed a Lacquer, not a varnish.
What that means is that the carrier fluid is nitrocellulose based which is what you can smell (yes, the stuff in TNT) but it is fine to use on acrylics and lots of people do so without problems.
However, there are a number of rules and tips to follow for any Lacquer, as they can strip certain acrylics, especially metallics, depending on the medium in each acrylic paint type.
Firstly you should always (always) gloss-coat the figure with an enamel or acryllic gloss varnish (NOT lacquer) before using Testors.
You must let that dry, so give it a good 24 hours in room temperature.
Next apply your testors spray by a VERY light "Mist" from about 18-24 inches form the figure/model. And I do mean "mist" - the more you spray it on, the less matte it will be, you want an extremely fine covering to get the best matte effect. So the "mist" should be falling lightly down on to the figure, rather than being forcibly sprayed on to it from the side.
Any areas that are missed with the spray you can matte-off using the brush-on version, but remember to use a soft brush as a tough synthetic in conjunction with the lacquer may lift the paint/varnish, especially if it is not fully cured.
Also you must ensure the spray-can is shaken thoroughly, about 2 minutes, spray only at room temperature and don’t let the can settle out otherwise you will get too much carrier and not enough matting agent. (the same is really true of all spray varnishes and lacquers mind you).
If you do all of that you will get an extremely matte finish, yes it can be tricky getting it correct, but the only thing matter is the liquid dullcote sprayed on by airbrush at around 10-12psi…
Brushing liquid testors dullcote directly on to acrylics or decals though is plain daft and the shop-keeper should have told you so…then again he may not have a clue about what he sells, he just sells it.
That’s the advantage of only selling what you use yourself!
thanks i love good advice. as you can probably tell i dont know the most about paints so thanks for the advice. you seem to know whats what. what i got is the liquid dullcote.
ive painted the model with the 'ardcoat gloss stuff from games workshop just because i wanted to protect it a bit for the mean time. can i use the gamesworkshop airbrush to apply the liquid dullcote over this?
Yup, spray at around 12psi ro so, again very fine light spray is ideal, the less the better.
You will need to use Cellulose thinners to clean it, and if you want to thin it. Youc an noramlly get that from auto-stores as its used for automotive paints (which are, or were, cellulose based)
oops - double-post
Last edited by Jerrod Norton; January 25th, 2011 at 14:31.
(I keep spray purity seal, and a pot of ardcoat for shiny things like gems, which I put on last of course).
because "purity seal" doesn't look as good. it dulls the colours too much. I used to use it and you can get an ok finish but ive since used testors dullcoat in an airbrush and its way better. (p.s they wore red for a lot longer than they have black. black is relatively recent)
Meh I still call them redshirts. Only managers wear black though and staff wear blue.
Back to topic I highly recommend testors
Brokendoll Miniature Painting - (Coming Soon)
Muse2k8's Painting Antics (WIP and Finished Models thread)
One guy I knew quite well told me that they are always told not to recommend anything not sold by GW or associates unless it specifically fits a "hole" in the current range provision. In fact accroding to him - if anyone specifically mentioned someone elses product they were trained to "talk that product down" even if they had no personal experience of it and turn the conversation into a sale. Wouldn't surprise me if it was true. He told me after he got "made redundant".
(I believe him too - I have good reason to).(p.s they wore red for a lot longer than they have black. black is relatively recent)
Hmm. I think I remember the red, but haven't really thought about how long they wore it for....red then blue, now they all wear black.