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Quite recently I have had a few of my models end up with cracks on them after painting them with citadel paints.
I painted a blood thirster about 4 months ago and upon close inspection of him i found tiny cracks all along his body.
So far the only paints I have seen with these cracks has been dark flesh, blood red, and sunburst yellow.
I have started to water down my paints befor putting them on now and working with a couple coats of the same color and no cracks have shown up but Im just wondering if any one else has had this problem and if anyone has a clue to why this is happening
hmm. Never come across cracking with citadel paints.
How old are they?
Maybe you're fast drying your models with a hairdryer? If so it's on too hot and too close.
Or are you letting your models dry in a centrally-heated area (close to a heater?). This would make the paint contract very quickly maybe?
Can you show us some pictures on a large enough model? That might help someone come up with an idea.
It may be your undercoat doing the cracking. If you use chaos black spray but dont shake it enough then it can crackle.
Quorn! - Protein for the Protein God.
more than likely it is too thick
Thinning down your paint before brushing it on should help...
i've had paints dry up severa times and i have also seen models getting cracks in the paintjob, of all those 'cracked models' i would say 100% of them had thick layers of paint.
Howver, it might be a combination of those things,
leaving the paints in the sun
warm area, especially during the drying, a cold area, but next to a heater is the worst
thicker layers increase the odds of cracks.
Warchief Diggah o da Bloodmoon Squiggahs
All minis have a "release agent" that is applied to them which makes it easier for the manufacturer to release the product from the moulds - this is naturally left behind as the manufacturers don't spend a lot of time cleaning the stuff off (if at all in some cases).
I would lay ten-to-one on this being the route of the problem. To remedy it is quite simple;
Buy yourself a cheap toothbrush and rinse the product under a cold tap, leave it for 5 or six minutes submerged under water with just a little washing up liquid - the w.u. liquid will break up the release agent just like it would an oil based solution, although you won't "see" it. Go put the kettle on and make youself a cup of whatever, come back and give the product a gentle scrub with the toothbrush, then rinse it and let it dry completely before undercoating (this can be speeded up with a hair-dryer, but don't use kitchen towels as you'll more than likely leave behind tiny tiny bits of paper in recessed areas of the model.
Follow that advice and I think you may find that your problem is a thing of the past. If it's not then at least you've learnt how to properly prepare your models if you're not already doing this.
(Important note: Don't use a hair-dryer on resin models as you stand a good chance of melting them! Let these dry naturally).
If a plastic mini is "bent" or distorted you can with extreme care use a hot hair-dryer to heat the plastic up which will make it easier to bend back into shape, this also helps with conversions, but BE CAREFUL as too much heat for too long will make the area very brittle and prone to breaking completely!