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This seems like such a basic question but I'm in need of some new glue so I figured I'd ask everyone before getting a new bottle.
What's the best kind for both plastics and metals? It's fine if it's different ones for either. It can be either a type or a brand. The stuff I have is probably just old and doesn't seem to hold very strong, arms are breaking off easily, it's just brittle. I want something where I can put it on, have a few seconds to position if needed, and have it dry enough in 30-60 seconds to set aside. Then by overnight it will be a solid hold that won't break just by putting it in a case.
If there's already a topic or a FAQ I apologize, I couldn't find anything in a search.
JB weld industrial adhesive, people use it to seal cracks in car engines. I think holding a miniature together would be a piece of cake
Plastic - Styrene Plastic Cement (or good old model glue) You get a lot of time to position and about a 30-40 second bonding once you get it in the postion needed.
Metal - Crazy Glue Gel (this will work on both metal and plastic) About 5-10 second postion time and a 20-30 second bond time.
Zap A Gap is great - it's cheap, fast and effective with both metal and plastic. The only thing is the vapours irritate the eyes, and I don't know whether this is just me being messy but it always seems to go all over my fingers. Regardless, definitely the best glue I have bought.
For plastic glue I use Humbrol Liquid Poly, great glue but I'm going to have to glue the brush into the lid. It's very easy to get poly on your fingers and then onto the detailing on your model. You only make that mistake a couple of times before you learn to be careful, but it is irritating.
Last edited by Jimmy Carmine; April 27th, 2011 at 10:33.
I find the Revell plastic glue (with the needle) the best ever. That bottle never evaporates (mine's 15 years old!!)
For metal I use regular super glue out of the super market (€1 per tube). Never failed me once. Except the time I glued myself onto some miniature... My skin lost.
Member of X-hammer gaming club
I find the gw glue for plastics works fine but for metal models I use locktite 401. YOu need to keep it in the fridge once you open it but I have never had a metal model fall apart.
Found a glue at my local hobby shop that's working great. it doesn't have a brand name so they might order it special as there's an empty spot for their logo, but its a cyanoacrylate gap-filling glue, insta cure+. I used it continuing work on some plastic Dire Avengers, putting on accessories and re-gluing arms that had broken off. It bonds quick but not too quick, and holds really well after.
I use Testors plastic modeling cement with the syringe-like applicator tip. Works great and never dries in the bottle (though you have to be careful not to clog the tip). It's one of the best plastic cements that I've used. Another good kind to use are the ones that aren't glue at all - they are solvent based like MicroWeld or Bondene. These work by melting the pieces of plastic together and can create incredibly good bonds. They can be a little fiddly though and you definitely want to avoid breathing the fumes.
For metal I like generally use any super glue. If you find that yours isn't holding well or setting up fast enough then there's a good chance that your bottle has gone bad. The model shops that I've worked in would generally store unopened bottles in the fridge until it was ready to be opened up so that they wouldn't go bad. Once they are opened the clock is pretty much counting down on the glue, though.
Some others that I like for metal are 5 minute epoxy - it creates a nice bond but takes 5 minutes to set up and all night to cure. I also just tried using Gorilla Glue for the first time. Gorilla Glue is actually just a foaming resin (sort of like the stuff they make forgeworld kits out of... sort of). You dampen both pieces that you are going to glue, add a bit of glue, then clamp the pieces until they are set - which can take a few hours. The downside is cure time. The up side is that I've never seen a stronger bond. I've even been able to use it on very small parts - but you really do need to be able to get at least a small clamp on the piece otherwise the foaming of the glue will force the pieces apart.