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I haven't had much experience painting white, so I'm looking for advice to paint very high standard white shoulder pads for my black templar captain.
And when it comes to weathering, how could I achieve a high standard battle-hardened look and weathering to black armour (and white shoulder pads)?
Another question, should I freehand my cross or use the decal transfers from the sheet? I've tried once and it broke, and I'm quite handy when it comes to freehand.
Any advice would be great
If possible I'd primer the shoulder pad's white seperately from the rest of the model and then thin out some fortress grey so that it's practically a glaze and shade around the trim of the pad to add depth, remembering to be careful and not stain the portions of the shoulder pad that need to remain chrisp and clean.
If you have to start from black build up in layers some astronomicon grey until it's fairly smooth and consistant then shade the model with fortress grey as described for the earlier technique and finally highlight with skull white (personally i find vallejo linen white works better but it has a slight glazed sheen to it so it's more down to personal taste).
Weathering black armour is quite difficult but battle damage is possible depending on whether you want the armour to look like it's painted metal or something else. Since I only know how to do painted metal i'll start with that.
Get some charadon granite to about the consistancy of milk and a craft knife, carefully cut knicks and scratches into the armour and fill these marks with your prepared paint. Now carefully thin some boltgun metal and fill in the marks with this colour (don't worry if it isn't neat, aslong as you don't fill the scratch with paint it'll be fine). When dry wash it with devlan mud and then again when dry, badab black. Highlight the centre of the scratch with chainmail and their's some simple battle damage. for a slightly rusted look (works well on chaos stuff, or imperial guard tanks) replace devlan mud and badab black with a wash of scorched brown folled with vomit brown (these need to be very thing to ensure that some of tnhe silver shows through).
As for transfers I personally quite like them but they don't work on models that have a realistic battle damaged and weathered look (or atleast not without pissing about). there's no harm in practicing your freehand on a bit of scrap or some goblins bought on ebay to get better though ^^
Blues also work to build up to white. It's kind of your choice on what kind of white you want.
A youth with his first cigar makes himself sick; a youth with his first girl makes other people sick. - Mary Wilson Little
I have the general feeling from my recent foreplays into painting golds,whites,yellows and reds that they either need a step by step method(from a grey to white etc which for me is a pain but you get a great result)or mixing the colour you need with a with a paint of darker tone(etc blood red+scab red)then apply the blood red above the mix.| had succes with both methods.A wash is also needed in general and i dont know how or why it fixes the texture of the paint thus no blotcy surfaces.
I will try white priming white my deathwing in a test case model soon.
If you need to make shoulder pads plain white grab a white primer it will save you time and effort.I did that with my apothecary and have a very good result.He looks a bit flat though and i wonder if i can wash him somehow but i tremble at the idea since i have him into a jolly good standard.
A question about vagello paints:Are they acrilics?And how do they respond to the GW washes?Are they the same pain to paint as GW whites?
Last edited by pilot00; July 2nd, 2011 at 14:01.
Praise be to the Emperor!!
Black or white primer will help, but either way, you're in for some work. Prime white, and you'll need to paint the rest of the model black by hand (unless you cover up the pads and spray). If you prime/paint black you'll save a ton of work there, but you'll have to build up the white, which is not fun, even on shoulder pads. You can do it in 3-4 layers though, which might work out well if you go "assembly line" style.
What to build up to white with depends on the surrounding colors. In this case, I think Astronomican Grey will be a bad idea. It's a blue-gray, and since the rest of your model is black, the subtle hints might not work. Better to use Charadon Granite or some other kind of neutral gray color as a base. It helps (though may not be necessary if you do it right) to do a mid-layer of fortress grey or codex grey, then straight to pure white, but the trick is doing it right, which means making darned sure you have a nice, even coat BEFORE picking up the white. I can't stress this enough. The challenge of bright colors like this is that they magnify smaller mistakes. You've got to be anal-retentive about the granite undercoat and the mid-tone (if you use one), and don't cheat by using thicker paint. Keep it thin, which means you WILL NOT get a smooth, even coat the first time. Just accept it. Carve out some time for yourself and put in the layers. You'll appreciate it in the end. As has been said, for truly high-quality jobs, a soft glaze around the edges of the white patch looks great, but you could go nuts trying to do that. A smooth white finish is almost good enough in itself.
As to weathering, black is tough to do. You'll want to try painting on chips, using whatever highlight color you use (most people use a light grey like codex grey or something). You might consider instead of battle damage, doing a "dirty" look. Brown weathering powders along the greaves will add a nice "battle hardened" look, and a little black powder here and there on the pads will represent scoring. As in all weathering cases, I'm a big fan of the "less is more" perspective. It's easy to say, "That's not enough" when you do it for the first time with a model, but if you force yourself to leave it for a day, then go back to it, you'd be surprised how often you end up saying, "No, that's good. I'm leaving it," as opposed to indulging yourself and later saying, "Yeah, I did too much."
As to transfers, if you feel it's easier to do it yourself, by all means. You'll just have to deal with others saying, "Why'd you do it by HAND?" a lot. A nice "cheat" is to get a Sakura micron pen (most hobby stores stock them, if you've never heard of it) to do the outline. Makes for a nicer look, especially with hard-edged symbols like the BT cross. The pen is also great for adding "script" around the cross on the pad (here and there, NOT on all models. Again, less is more), which is another way to make the models look like veterans.
Hmm...You got me tempted with those mikro pens,i wonder though whats their difference to other generic pens with small tips?
Praise be to the Emperor!!
Wow, lots and lots of replies. I have collections of White Dwarf magazines in which I have selected various techniques for this model. I want cool black armour, not necessarily warm or neutral black. I am painting them as Legion of the Damned armour was painted back in the January 2010 issue, which has a 1:1 mix of Regal Blue and Chaos Black as its base, then I believe it just builds up in neutral greys from there. So maybe if we could adapt some of those white techniques with cooler colours that would be great.
As with the shoulder pads, I was thinking of buying maybe a pair of them on eBay to use on my captain, maybe I'll only use the left one. Freehand will be a pain in the ass, and I'd like to have some highlights and dimension on my cross. As for the little 'name tag' as I like to call them that spreads across the cross, thanks for the idea of using those micron pens, I'll go investigate today.
As with the weathering, I am not convinced weather I should do metal or just normal grey, both specified here. I remember that in previous WD issues that with weathering they have just used the base colour of the armour and applied chips with that (Space Wolves) but again that is a bit hard to do when painting black. As for the weathering powders, I'll take a look into that, they seem pretty cool, and I reckon it would be great on a Captain.
Pilot00 wanted to know what vallejo paints are.
They come in 4 ranges, Vallejo Model Colour, Vallejo Model Air, Vallejo Ultra Opaque and Vallejo Panzer Aces with more ranges planned. All of the paints are acrylic and apart from the Panzer aces range have different pigment quantities depending on what they are intended for. Almost every colour has either an exact match or effectively indistigushable colour counterpart to the gw paint range, however they are typically cheaper (cheapest i found them at was £1.75 a bottle), come in handy dropper bottles so you can measure out the exact amount of paint you need for a mixture, the paint doesn't dry out or split as quickly and you get more paint in each bottle. There is also roughly 275 colours to choose from and they are compatabible with any and all existing acrylic paint brands (with the exception of tamiya paints), that includes gw washes and foundations.
As always though their is no perfect paint brand, for example vallejo metallics are vastly superior and more varied however some colours are very plasticy and dry with an almost gloss sheen, however that tends to be the more unusual colours that gw don't make so just look on them as failed experiments as they aren't bad and hey atleast they tried to have more than 2 types of purple.
The Vallejo Game Color [sic] range is based around an exact equivalent of a Games Workshop colour. Every colour in the range is the counterpart of a GW colour so in that respect they are really handy. I use a lot of them and really like them, my only criticism of Game Colour is that the pigment seems to separate really quickly and I have yet to find a way to combat it. I've tried adding a drop of flow improver for every couple of drops of water and it doesn't seem to help much. Aside form that though, I really like the Game Color range.
Another range Vallejo produce, that I only just started working with today incedentely is the "Liquid Gold" range. Which is a range of glass bottled, alcohol based metallic paints. They seem to apply really really smoothly, although I have to use different brushes. At this point I can really recommend them but I'm gonna see how it goes.
But back to the point at hand, apologies to contributing to a potential thread hijack.
If you're going to use the method of painting black using the Regal Blue, then maybe using the blue technique for your shoulder pads would yeild positive results. I don't know the colours you would use to build up to them but there are definitely examples of white painted items that have blue as a tint/glaze/shadow in the last 12 months of White Dwarf, maybe on some of the Blood Angels stuff?
Best of luck mate, hope it works out for you.
Night gathers, and now my watch begins.
Yeah, people, if you want to talk about Vellego Paints, however you spell it, then please create another thread.
I haven't the money to get weathering powder sets from Forge World after everything else I have bought, so I'll be stuck with those scratches. Where do I put them? And how many do I have?And thanks for the silver scratches method I will be using that.
And as for blue based whites, for those of you who have many months of White Dwarf magazines, I like the look of the Angelic Wings and Aged Parchment on Page 79 back in WD 364, which is the April 2010 Blood Angels issue. Any comments?
I have proper Black Templar shoulder pads too so none of that annoying freehand stuff is required.
New Question: Black Templar Banners. How do I paint them? I haven't the faintest idea so please enlighten me on this.