Dark Angels Captain (Pic heavy) - Warhammer 40K Fantasy
 

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  1. #1
    Kev
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    54 (x1)

    Dark Angels Captain

    I started this as just a test model, but its ended up as something where, in parts, I am extremely proud. I feel that the bolter on this miniature really lets it down. My intention was to try out some NMM on the gold and silver parts, but I kept messing it up so much I just went back to plain old... well, MM I guess. At this point though it had got clumpy and I couldn't really do much without stripping the bolter, but I was scared to do so.

    I would really appreciate some CC. As proud as I am about aspects of this mini I still feel like I've got a long way to go. And if anyone would like me to explain any of it then I would be more than happy to do so.






    I've already learned a lot from the mini. A lot of the pooling at the top of the banner is because I had my paint brush loaded too much with paint while doing my shade. In the future I'm hoping to achieve much smoother results. I'm just looking for a nice posh way to base him now. Thanks for looking guys,

    Kev

    Last edited by Kev; July 3rd, 2011 at 21:38.
    Night gathers, and now my watch begins.
    My blog:
    http://lifeless-loser.blogspot.com/

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  3. #2
    Shire can't handle me Warlord Vrrmik's Avatar
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    2085 (x8)

    That looks good. Perhaps if you want that smoother look go for multiple coats of thinner paint rather than just one coat of thicker paint.

    I quite like it. I didn't even notice the bolter 'fault' until you mentioned it, as I was quite impressed at your weathering of your cloak, your sword, and especially the head. Perhaps you could share how you painted the head? It would be great because I can't seem to get the right tone for my miniatures and that's the effect I desire, so please share.

    ++Rep

  4. #3
    Kev
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    54 (x1)

    Hiya Warlord, thanks so much for the kind words mate.

    The head was painted using the Reaper Master series 'tanned flesh' triad. I started with the Tanned Shadow, and then highlighted using Tanned Skin, then I used a wash of Ogryn Flesh slightly watered down, before going back in with Tanned Skin and then the Tanned Highlight. I used Blood red to go over the scar from his eye unit thingy. And to paint the stubble, I mixed a little codex grey in with some Tanned Skin.

    The weathering on the cloak was done using three brown colours. I apologise in advance as I really can't remember the first two. But they were heavily watered down, and started with the lightest brown. I know I initially used Snakebite Leather but because I used that in the mix for the cloaks shadow, it didn't really work. so I used coat A at the highest point of the weathering, making sure I was always pulling from the top to the bottom of the cloak. I'm not sure what this technique is called, but it definitely works well. Coat B was a little lower still, and then the final coat which was Bloodstone from P3 was done at the very bottom.

    Again, thanks for the kind words mate. I'm proud of this guy, but I'm hoping there is better to come!
    Night gathers, and now my watch begins.
    My blog:
    http://lifeless-loser.blogspot.com/

  5. #4
    LO Zealot Zentradi's Avatar
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    282 (x5)

    First what I like about the model, the over all colours works good together. The cloak looks nice, and I like the weathering. The freehand on the banner is cool. I also like the face and the small details, like the rope and the gem. The top skull looks ok to. And the sword is great, but there are some annoying details on it.

    Second what I dont like so much, this is just things to take with you for the next project Im not sure you should change anything at this time... first the small size of the picture, hard to see the details and give some constructive comments... The green armour looks a bit flat, some more highlights should be better I think. next the sword, its well painted but you have a annoying white reflection at the bottom base, if you was going on a NMM look then there should not me so much light there, as the light come from above (most of the time any way...) Then the metal on the bolt gun looks bad nut that you know and I also dislike some of the gold for the same reason. As for removing paint from one detail of the mini, I use a sharp scalpel and just scratch it gently away. Remember that this is joust my opinions and nothing else.

    Over all good job
    Keep the paint diluted and thin :)
    (first rule in Zentradis book of painting)
    http://www.coolminiornot.com/artist/Zentradi

  6. #5
    Kev
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    54 (x1)

    Thanks for the comments mate. The overall flatness is definitely an issue. This is something apparent more on the photo's but is also definitely visible when looking at the miniature. There's a little bit of blending on the shoulder pads but the contrast between the dark (chaos black and dark angels green) to the light (snot green) is really low so it still looks fairly flat. You're very much correct with regards to the metallic areas too. I started out trying to go for my first crack at NMM on the gold and silver areas, but it looked terrible, so I coloured it all in black and went with a regular metallic look, but at this point it was starting to look a bit clumpy so I kinda left it as it was in fear of making it look worse. BUT, lessons definitely learned here and looking forward to getting stuck in to something else and building on what I've taken from this.

    Your comments have been gratefully received Zen, thanks for taking the time mate. Onwards and upwards from here!
    Night gathers, and now my watch begins.
    My blog:
    http://lifeless-loser.blogspot.com/

  7. #6
    Interrogator-Chaplain pilot00's Avatar
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    459 (x8)

    Kev i find him brilliant!I have that model and i wanted to paint him as a DA as well and i can tell you you insipered me.The only thingie i would change is to give a silver touch to the bolters inscription.

    I like the sword too much but i agree that white(?)at the hilt looks a bit odd,not bad but odd.
    Gice a light wash of badab black to the metal of the bolter to smooth it a bit too.

    Care to share the technique for the sword?
    Last edited by pilot00; July 14th, 2011 at 13:04.
    Praise be to the Emperor!!
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  8. #7
    Kev
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    54 (x1)

    @pilot00 happy to mate. Thanks very much for the comments. They're really appreciated. For the sword I used the technique used in this video:

    ‪How to paint Force Weapons? Non Metallic Metal NMM | BuyPainted‬‏ - YouTube

    However, on the left bottom side, I messed it up by not thinning properly, so that one side is done by hand. I think when I painted it I wasn't really thinking of NMM, I was thinking of it more as a glowing, magical weapon where the light source was the weapon itself. That being said, if something doesn't look right, it doesn't look right regardless of the painters vision/intentions. So I will definitely be trying to address this in future projects.

    Once again, thanks for all the comments and CC guys.
    Night gathers, and now my watch begins.
    My blog:
    http://lifeless-loser.blogspot.com/

  9. #8
    Interrogator-Chaplain pilot00's Avatar
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    459 (x8)

    Guess ill have to do it by hand too,since i dont have sprayers and i dont intent to by one.Thanks anyway though mate.

    Heres some rep i forgot to give in my previous post.
    Praise be to the Emperor!!
    [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

  10. #9
    LO Zealot Zentradi's Avatar
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    282 (x5)

    That is ok do do by hand as well, that is what I always do... Afther seeing this video I can understand what the problem with the sword is. Its really a matter of angel of the sword, on your model the sword points more forward then upward, and therefore the bottom looks more strange then it should have don if the sword was in a different angel. In the video Im prettey sure the sword is intended to be raised more up then forward so to say. Hope it makes any sense at all...

    Also I just what to point out that I like the model. Its well painted! Just so there's no confusion about that
    Keep the paint diluted and thin :)
    (first rule in Zentradis book of painting)
    http://www.coolminiornot.com/artist/Zentradi

  11. #10
    Kev
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    54 (x1)

    Quote Originally Posted by pilot00 View Post
    Guess ill have to do it by hand too,since i dont have sprayers and i dont intent to by one.Thanks anyway though mate.

    Heres some rep i forgot to give in my previous post.
    @pilot00 . By hand isn't too difficult. the one section of the sword I did by hand I did in the following way:

    Painted the whole model with P3 Arcane Blue (which I used as a substitute for GW Ice Blue). Then using consecutive coats of thinned down Skull White I painted the bottom, always being sure to pull my brush towards the swords handle so that the colour built up most there. I then did the same with watered down Ultramarines Blue, but pulled the paint towards the tip of the sword, then, leaving some of the Ultramarines Blue still showing, I did the same with Chaos Black, pulling it towards the tip again. I don't know if I've explained that very well, but I believe its called the 'push pull' technique, whereby you always make sure you are lifting the brush off the miniature in the place you wish the most paint to be deposited. Hopefully one of the more experienced lads on here can clear it up if I've made a right pigs ear of describing it.

    @Zentardi . No need to clear it up mate, your comments were taken in the spirit you intended them, I wasn't offended by them at all. I was very grateful for them! I think another issue with the sword with the white at the bottom is that the blend between the Arcant Blue and the White isnt overly smooth which makes it look a little more clunky. But your point makes perfect sense, light source is something I intend to pay a lot more attention to on future projects.
    Night gathers, and now my watch begins.
    My blog:
    http://lifeless-loser.blogspot.com/

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