Welcome to Librarium Online!
Join our community of 80,000+ members and take part in the number one resource for Warhammer and Warhammer 40K discussion!
Registering gives you full access to take part in discussions, upload pictures, contact other members and search everything!
Here's a step by step guide as to how I painted by Blood Angles. Note that I am definitely no painting pro, but the method I used seems to produce good looking miniatures in a reasonable amount of time. If you're interested in some of the modelling work on the marines, or a bit of fluff about what they are currently doing, check out my blog!
Stage 1 - Armor
Step 1: Undercoat using Citadel black primer.
Step 2: Base coat with Mechrite Red. I did two coats as the color is pretty thin. Each coat took about 10 minutes per model, for a total of 20 minutes per model for step 2.
Step 3: Wash with Thraka Green. This was important because the Mechrite Red was really shiny, a thin Thraka Green wash toned the shiny down without loosing the red hue. The wash took 5 minutes per model. See the picture below of a marine (with a beak - my favorite helmet!) after step 3.Step 4: Paint all shaded areas with a 2:1 Blood Red:Water mixture. This step took me around 20 minutes per model. See the picture below for a tactical marine after step 4.
Step 5: Semi-highlight with a 2:1:1 mixture of Blood Red:Blazing Orange:Water. To do this I basically looked at the marine top down and painted every surface I could see looking straight down. Step 5 took about 10 minutes per marine.
Step 6: Highlight with Blazing Orange. This was just adding an extra orange coat to the "shiny spots" on the marines. Step 6 took about 5 minutes per marine.
Step 7: Wash with Baal Red. Toned down the brightness a little bit. Step 7 took under 5 minutes per marine.
The picture below shows a marine once completed step 7, which is all of the armor painting. Steps 1-7 took just over an hour per marine, for a total of 10-11 hours for the squad of 10. Pretty steep, but overall I'm happy with how they look. If I could've changed anything I would have done a touch up coat of Blood Red:Water after step 4, as the Blood Red coat was a little thin.
Stage 2 - Details
There are skulls everywhere on marines - the armor, backpacks, and helmets. I painted the skulls on my marines with a basecoat of Scorched Brown, and then a coat of Bleached Bone. For the large skull on the flag carried by the sergeant, I highlighted it Skull White.
For the wing crest on the chest of the marines, I basecoated it black, then drybrushed it with a 1:1 mix of Skull White:Chaos Black. I do a lot of small mixtures like this because I don't have that great of a selection of paints, so I have to make my own a lot (in this case, a grey). The drybrush gave it a nice, highlighted look.
I painted the seal itself with two coats of Sunburst Yellow. For the parchment, I basecoated it Scorched Brown then did a sort of drybrush with Bleached Bone to make it look kind of like worn paper.
I used pretty much the same paint scheme on all of the weapons - a basecoat of a 1:1 mix of Boltgun Metal:Chaos Black followed by a highlight of Boltgun Metal. For the meltagun barrel, I used a basecoat of a 1:1 mix of Shining Gold:Scorched Brown followed by a highlight of a 2:1 mix of the same paints.
I painted the eyes yellow!
That pretty much sums up the detailing painting, now I just need to finish up the basing and the tactical marines are complete! As for timing, the detailing took on average 45 minutes per marine, bringing the total time spent per marine up to 105 minutes.
Stage 3 - Finishing Touches
The first step was to remove the marines from their bases, as I had used putty to temporarily hold them on the bases as I was painting. I then used a modeling knife to remove the putty from the base and the bottom of the feet of my marines.
I then squirted a little bit of regular white glue (from 7-11 believe it or not) onto each of the bases. I used an old-ish brush to spread the glue around evenly on the base, then dipped the base into a container full of sand from a beach. After waiting about 20 minutes for the glue to dry, I undercoated the bases with Chaos Black undercoat. This not only made painting the sand easier, but I found it also helped the sand stick onto the base better. Once the undercoat was dry, I basecoated the top and sides of the bases Scorched Brown. I then painted the sand with a 1:1 mix of Sunburst Yellow:Scorched Brown, then highlighted the sand with Bleached Bone.
After this, I used superglue to glue the marines back onto their bases, you can see the finished product below!
Applying Blood Drop Transfer
Applying the transfer to the shoulder pad of my marines was actually much easier than I thought it would be (I've never done a transfer before this).
I started off by cutting the transfers individually and then placing them on a wet paper towel.
I took each transfer individually and held it in my left hand. In my right hand I used a damp paint brush to slide the transfer off its backing onto the shoulder pad of my marines. I then brushed over it lightly to make sure it was flush with the surface of the shoulder pad. Easy!
To round things off, here is a picture of the finished squad, defending a hill!
Including basing and applying the transfers, it took just over two hours per marine, for a total of just over 20 hours for the whole squad. Quite a length of time, but I think they look good enough to make it worth the effort! Any comments and criticism (constructive or otherwise) is welcome and appreciated!
way start with black undercount if you want a bright red like your models? IMO its way more easy to get a perfect surface if you use a white undercoat, its even possible to spray paint the hole model red after the white undercoat, and the shade the model, if you are painting so much red on the model. This makes the red colour more even and quicker to apply. But nice description of what you did and you have quite thin layers of paint, its. Also I my self like some more shade in my red.
I like it though two thinkies to considererhaps a really really light,bhadab black wash instead of thraka?
And in order to tone down the orange in the last stages,i would suggest bhaal red with purple wash on a mix wih water.
Would made the armor a little bit more dark.
Anyway thats my preferences,not an expert painter anyway.
Heres some rep for taking your time to show us your way of painting blood angels!
Praise be to the Emperor!!
I don't think the models are as bright as they seem in the pictures, I just used a flash when taking pictures so it looks that way. I normally like my models to be darker; I've never had a model turn out well when using white undercoat... but your suggestion makes sense so I may have to try it in the future.way start with black undercount if you want a bright red like your models?Sorry, I don't quite understand what you mean by this?Also I my self like some more shade in my red.For something like this, could you just water down chaos black instead of using bhadab black? I currently don't have a great selection of paints...I like it though two thinkies to considererhaps a really really light,bhadab black wash instead of thraka?
Last edited by cheart; July 22nd, 2011 at 16:03.
sorry for not making it clear... I mean that i like the deeps to be darker, but I dont think chaos black is the way, maybe a dark brow or dark brown red colour, scorched earth perhaps? So im a litte bit on Pilots side here but black well make a to hard contrast IMO.
The point is to dull the colour not change its context.So thats why i say very thinned down black.But yet again,i aint as experienced so you might be right.
And from what i can see from your medals,you are
Praise be to the Emperor!!
So you both think that the baal red wash isn't dark enough? Should I do another, darker wash ontop of the baal red wash, or just replace the baal red wash with a darker one?
Really im not a expert on quick or fairly quick tabletop painting, im more of a show case painter, so exactly what quick technique to use I cant really say. Still I believe a darker shading should be nice. I believe you can try to use a darker shade over the baal red. Still im of the idea that it better to thin down washes a bit to get it more like a glaze and careful paint the shading, not just wash the hole model, if you under stand what I mean. Still if you are happy with the result just leave it as it is, you are going to use them for gaming and maybe its better just to think about the feed back and see what happens with the next model you paint. You can always go back to your old models and repaint or change something about them if you want later. Hope the feedback have given you something and keep it up