Welcome to Librarium Online!
Join our community of 80,000+ members and take part in the number one resource for Warhammer and Warhammer 40K discussion!
Registering gives you full access to take part in discussions, upload pictures, contact other members and search everything!
Hey guys, I have been using citadel paints for a good while, but I am looking to create smoother transitions and a higher level of detail on my models, I know citadel paints are water based but I have noticed that without adding water it can be far to thick for the detail Im trying to create. Is water the way to go?? Or is there anything else/ maybe another type of paint altogether I should try? i would like to keep with citadel as it is easy for me to obtain and I have alot already though, thanks in advance guys!
Sadly, Citadel does not have acrylic thinner, Vallejo does, very good stuff. And it comes in handy 200ml bottles as well as small paint drippers.
Water works quite well but from time to time I've noticed it can mess up the consistency of the paint a bit, an acrylic thinner will keep the consistency, well, more consistent. If you can't obtain Vallejo products locally, Ebay is your friend.
On a side note, ŕlways use water to thin inks and glazes though ass a thinner will tint the transparency of an ink.
thank you very much, also Ihear alot of people put water directly into the paint pot, while I have been doing it on a pallet, is it recommended?
Hmmm, that depends on the quantity you'll need in a few days worth... I find that paints thinned with water tend to dry our faster and become gummy quickly when left for too long. I myself thin what I need on the spot in a tiny little pallet dish I have.
For airbrushing though, I mix in a little paint brush pot and keep the mix as long as possible, as I always try to airbrush as much models in one sitting as possible.
Also check out your local craft/art store (we have a Michael's here) for some acrylic thinner. GW paints might be a little different than other acrylic paints you pick up (as far as consistency and pigment saturation), but it's still just acrylic paint.
As for watering down your pots, keep in mind that I'm a self-proclaimed "average painter", but I tend to add water straight to the pot to get the consistency I want. I haven't had any problems with it as of yet, but I do have to keep adding water each day if I'm doing some heavy painting. I'm also not doing any advanced techniques like wet blending or anything. If I were, I'd look into the art supply stores and see what acrylic mediums they have (there's a whole section dedicated in our local store).
Thinning any paint will result in the pigment becoming separated and this is the key thing to remember. With water based paints using water is really the easiest and quite often the best method to use.
One of the best ways to understand how this works in practice is to simply grab some plain white paper and try different consistencies, see how the paint reacts with different ratios of water added.
First try using the paint neat from the pot and paint a square. Then keep adding water and painting a square. What you are looking for is a nice fluid consistency that flows well but still covers evenly without streaks.
This is the consistency you want for painting with. However saying that different techniques, desired result etc can change that.
Use paint neat for dry brushing, as described above for layering, add more water for a wash and alot more for a glaze.
The next thing to think about is how colours work together, layering a colour like this will always result in the colour below showing through. By remembering this you can use the same colour several times on a layer, covering less area each time to produce a gradual blend that cannot be distinguished over each layer.
You can of course add some glaze medium to your mix, a drop or 2 can work wonders but ultimately water is your greatest and cheapest friend here.
Hope this helps.
Should mention btw that you should use a well pallet for this and add water as you need it not into the pot.
Also if you layer like this you don't need to learn to wet blend. Wet blending requires using a retarder and can be harder to control results on a mini. Honestly I find wet blending a pointless waste of effort on a mini unless your extremely good at it. With layers you can control your result so much better especially at higher details of highlighting.
Another good tip btw, look at the colour wheel and see which colour comes directly opposite your base. Use that colour as a thin glaze, not wash, and paint your shaded areas, building it up till your happy. It looks amazing and is a natural shade of the colour used. Ie blue glaze to shade red, purple to shade yellow etc. Remember it won't be blue or purple once painted on... Again it's understanding how colours work together.