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  1. #1
    Senior Member coldblooded3k's Avatar
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    Primer sticking issues

    Hello, I got a question for someone who works with Pewter models a lot in question. I seem to have a problem with priming pewter models on areas that are highly raised up, the models in question for me at the moment are some Privateer press models, a Carniveon and a Mauler. The spines on both the Mauler Carni wont have any primer stick to them at the tips. I've tripped shaving the edges some down a little and repriming but the result is the same.

    I've always had this problem with pewter models from any range. Is there some sort of paint on primer I can get hold of, I've ignored the edges and painted the models through anyway mostly but it is annoying as hell to see a fully painted model with shiney unpaintedness on it.

    I use real grey and black primer by the way, not "spray paint" so i don't understand what i'm doing wrong.


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  3. #2
    Sir Proofreader Deadstar_MRC's Avatar
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    I don't think you're really doing anything wrong as such... I do use a spray primer but it too has difficulty adhering to sharp edges or spikes, and if it chips or wears it will do so at those areas before anywhere else. I think its just a property of the paint, maybe.

    You're washing your models before you prime them, of course? I've noticed quite a few Privateer Press models I have worked on seem to still have a lot of mould release agent on them. At least, I assume that's what it is. So the old warm soapy water and scrubbing with a toothbrush is a must.
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  4. #3
    Senior Member coldblooded3k's Avatar
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    I wash my models yes and i end up shaving down stuff like spines down a tad, but it never seems to help, I think the way spray primer is made to attach to models is just not made for pointed ends like that. I'd really like some good paint on primer for the edges if there is no preparation way of dealing with these edges. It only happens to Pewter models for some reason, plastic and Resin models always seem fine.

    This isn't chipping by the way, the areas lose the paint before I even get to paint them, the paint just isn't applying in the first place.

  5. #4
    Senior Member Muse2k8's Avatar
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    I will presume your preparing the pewter before priming. What I do is after priming and it's dry I sometimes put a lick of varnish on those areas prone to chipping. Just strengthens it a bit.

  6. #5
    Senior Member coldblooded3k's Avatar
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    outside of washing what more can i do to prepare the pewter? I clean off any "flash", wash the models, and prime them and let them dry, and those "areas" giving me trouble are already showing before i get back to them.

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    Senior Member Muse2k8's Avatar
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    If I prime black I usually paint those bits with chaos black if I get them. Your not alone though it's pretty normal unfortunately

  8. #7
    Sir Proofreader Deadstar_MRC's Avatar
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    I wonder if roughing up those edges the paint isn't sticking too would help? Use a bit of sandpaper or a file to rough up the surface a little, and the paint might have more chance of adhering to the rough surface.

    Unfortunately it will probably also show through the primer and look a bit rough, so you might have to decide between a not-so-good primer coat or a slightly scratched looking model...
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  9. #8
    Senior Member coldblooded3k's Avatar
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    I don't see how it would look any worse, at least theres a paintjob done. Its weird looking at a brand new fully painted model with shiney metal parts showing through.

  10. #9
    LO Zealot MDSW's Avatar
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    What I am about to say may be much easier said than done, simply due to what you currently like to use. Acrylic primers not just not the best material for priming metal. It is water based and therefore, much easier to rub off and the pigment is not as fine as can be in other types of paint.

    I only use enamel (thinner-based) primers in a matte finish. This will work much better than the acrylic primers for metal - and even better for plastic, too, as it can cover in a thinner, yet stronger coat and it is easier to paint your acrylics on top. A semi-gloss or matte varnish top coat seals your paint job nicely and will help keep those spikes from getting the paint rubbed off. But, there not be any method that is rock-solid perfect.

    If you want the best primer adhesion, you can get some great metal priming sprays, but I would fear they would cover too thick and hide details.

  11. #10
    Senior Member coldblooded3k's Avatar
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    i agree with the thicker primers hiding details, I'm trying to find a paint on Primer that can come in our little pot paint style that i can paint on after the spray to cover any areas that the spray can't reach or won't stick too, know any good paint on primers?

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