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I've been playing Warriors of Chaos for a few months now. I've finally finished cleaning off the mold lines from 50 marauders and 36 warriors and plan on base coating them black this weekend. Next step is painting and I have to admit, after looking at all the models around here and in White Dwarf I'm a little intimidated. Especially since the last time I tried to paint something was a Zoat from the woodelf army when I tried to pick up the hobby as a kid 2 decades ago. I'm hoping to get some advice, more specifically:
1. Are the White Dwarf tutorial guides good? (they look very useful and informative) Are there any other painting guides out there that you'd recommend?
2. I've heard the GW brushes are junk and that I should find Kolinsky Sable brushes like the Da vinci or Windsor & Newtons. But... given my lack of skill will it matter? I find it really helpful that the GW brushes tell you what the brush is for "dry brush, detail, fine detail" etc., it's like painting for dummies.
3. Is spray-painting a viable option for a neophyte? EDIT - Airbrushing
4. Paints - I've read GW paints are too expensive for the amount of paint you get.
5. To paint 50 marauders to table-top quality how much time would you estimate that takes?
6. Any other tips are appreciated
Last edited by Korpacz1; April 3rd, 2012 at 23:09.
These are just my own opinions
1 - The White Dwarf guides are good for developing and learning techniques from and what colors compliment each other ect and the perfect place to start in my opinion. Other easy to follow guides can be found on Youtube with ease (Check out Girlpainting, her guides are quite informative and easy to follow to get a decent paint job done).
2 - I think until you want to move on to models for display the GW brushes are perfectly fine, I use a mix of them and several other brands. If the labled brushes are going to help you then they are your best bet whilst you learn your style.
3 - Indeed it is! Do it.
4 - I can't say as the only paints i have used are GW's :/
5- Again, no idea.
I think the most important thing to remember is that you won't be able to paint golden demon winners straight away and the only real way to learn is to get stuck in! You'll soon develop your own personal style and techniques oh, and washes are your friend!!
1) I haven't really seen the WD guides as I don't get WD but from the archives I've seen on the GW site I'd say they probably are
2) I think GW brushes are ok - I generally only use their standard, drybrush and detail brushes though - for bigger stuff like tanks and so on which require a quick and easy base-coat, just use any random bigger brush
3)I'm a little unclear what you mean here... if you mean spray-painting to get a basecoat then yeah, do it - for little bits that I stick on after the model is painted (say if I swap a head or what have you) then I just paint it black using a brush.
4) Can't help you much here, as GW is the only place I've ever got paints from. I've heard things like Vallejo are good too, but I recommend reading some reviews online first, and also arming yourself with a colour chart so you can see which colours from your chosen company or what have you tally up with the GW paints (since all of their articles will obviously use their paints) - I also recommend using this too http://www.games-workshop.com/MEDIA_...nversion_Chart - it's a colour conversion chart from the old GW paints to the new 145 paints they've released. You'll need both your alternate company paint conversion chart to the old GW paints and this one in order to get the new equivalents
5) No idea, depends on how complex you want them.
6) As a general tip if you're new to painting. What i recommend is the following for your rank and file mobs...
(take the marauder's skin as an e.g. since that's all I'm thinking of for the purposes of this bit)
1) Basecoat in the skin colour you want (e.g. Tallarn/Cadian flesh(tone)) till you get a nice flat basecoat with no black showing through
2) Wash with an ink (a brown ink is what I recommend) so that the skin is kinda "stained" with the other colour and has a brownish colour in the recesses - be sure to let this dry COMPLETELY.
3) Paint again with the skin colour, leaving the ink colour (which is darker) in the recesses.
---> That general trend of basecoat, ink, layer is what I heartily recommend for newbies such as yourself, as it's fairly quick, and fairly easy to pull off a good luck provided your hands are fairly steady (marauders should be nice and easy to do anyway due to the muscles having lots of easily hit raised areas). Of course it also works on things other than skin - hair for e.g. is another good area, as well as cloaks and so on - it'll work on pretty much anything.
For your characters I'd recommend taking your time on them, make 'em look fantastic! After all, no one gives a damn about the ordinary guys...it's all about the characters!
I also recommend taking your time on the first say...10 marauders? So that you have that technique down and well practiced - once you've got it, you can start speeding up on the rest of them.
Lastly, always remember to THIN YOUR PAINTS - not so think that they're like water, but think enough that they can go on easily, and without looking gloopy
Hope I've been of help.
I'll give you my two cents as well on this...
1) If you're going to get serious about painting, WD articles can be good to learn techniques, if you're only interested in tabletop standards then I wouldn't worry too much about them.
2)GW brushes aren't *junk* as such but I don't care much for them. If you have a Hobby Lobby (or something similar) nearby, look for their brand. My Hobby Lobby brushes at $3.something apiece are wonderful and then come in super small sizes (got a 20/0 and 12/0 ).
3)I don't airbrush but I've seen beautiful work with them.
4)I use GW (mainly because it's the only thing my local store supplies without having to drive across town to the other one, or halfway across to HobbytownUSA). I'm sure our more experienced painters would recommend Vallejo or something similar. Personally I quite enjoy my GW paints and take good care of them.
5)Now then, I prefer my models MUCH darker than many of my fellow hobbyists, so I usually don't highlight much (if at all). I'd decide on a few simple colors and appropriate washes and go for it. Blackadder's method looks good for that.
- It's art, nothing is technically wrong.
- Find your style and stick to it.
- Most important of all: Enjoy it!
Cheaper brushes are fine to start out with.
Learn to properly clean and use/care for them before buying any expensive ones.
If you're going to dry brush at all, designate one brush for that exclusively.
If you end up buying paint in pots I have one suggestion:
Go to a craft store and purchase some glass/ceramic beads ~1/4" in diameter or larger. The heavier the better. Washed steel balls from ball bearings and small rounded stones will work as well.
Place 1 or 2 of these in each paint pot.
Now you can easily and thoroughly mix your paint in the pot before you use it each time by a gentle shaking, rattling the beads around inside.
Wholeheartedly agree with all the above, especially the advice to thin your paints until it is a good working consistency. Some will come right out of the pot pretty good, while others need quite a bit of help. In any case, do not use the paints right out of the conainer, since it dries out as the lid is open while you are painting. Get yourself a really cheap mixing tray with lots of recessed areas. Put some blobs of paint and put a tiny bit of water - use the other end of your brush, not the bristle end to mix!!!! The biggest mistake most new people make when painting is having the paint go on too thick.
Have fun and post pics!!!
My quick advice for a newbie: go simple to start. Using the 'Eavy Metal tutorials is fine, but don't be upset if you don't match their quality. In my opinion, a newbie's fully painted three-colour army has always looked better than a half-painted high quality painted army. And speaking of colours, a simple and effective colour scheme is the MOST important part. My first armies always looked bad because I used every colour: red, blue, yellow, green...lol. So go simple on that too and you'll get better results.
Finally, if you're painting 50 marauders that can be a daunting task for anyone. My method is to make one complete model first so I'm happy with the look. Then I do the base coats on as many as I can stand before I do details. Some people can assembly line them one colour at a time, but I can never resist finishing models. The key is to save yourself some fun stuff for when the basecoating gets too boring. Basically, find your own rhythm and go with it. Remember, a unit of 50 three colour painted models look much more rewarding than a half finished well painted unit any day.
Honey badger don't care.
1) Cool Mini or Not sell an incredible painting guide, you may be able to find it using rather backhand methods for free.. taught me a surpisingly large amount
2) I used GW brushes when i started and they really are awful, my painting improved exponentially when I switched to W&N series 7 miniature brushes, I have a number 1, 0 and 000. The only GW brushes I use are a basecoat brush that is quite good, and their drybrushes that are genuinely better than anything else on the market, loving the way oxhair drybrushes. I would say to start get a standard/basecoa brush from GW and a fine detail brush size 0 or 1 of better quality (W&N7 is the best honest.. lasted me 3 years of hard service, they have a great spring to them and always hold a point). Make sure you take good care of them, never let paint get into the metal part and wash the brushes with brushsoap and dry and point them before putting the covers back on.
3) Decent airbrushes cost quite a bit but can have amazing results, for your marauders, I think the easiest way is to utilise army painter sprays, they are cans of coloured primer that make basecoating very easy, especially for something like marauders where you will see a lot of the same colour type (ie brown and flesh). I would spray brown and then basecoat over it.
4) Buy vallejo, they are twice the size, just over half the cost and much better quality. Plus they are in dropped bottles so you do not waste a drop and can make up exact recipes for every colour you paint. People will tell you that the foundation range in GW are incredible, but vallejo now make an opaque range which are just as good. The only thing I would ever buy from GW is their washes, which are incredible. But vallejo make a pale grey wash great for shading white that GW do not do.
5) Using a coloured primer... 20 hours? Without maybe 30, paint them in batches of 10 and have a list of what layers of paint you need to put on so you can stay organised. You will get bored though so break it up by painting some warriors. Also think about making some unit fillers so you have something different to paint and also its easier to unpack your unit from your case. Have a look at my WoC blog advertised in my sig if you like.. I used a mutated tree in my 30 nurgle marauders to fill the space of 4 of them.
6) Get a comfy chair and a swinglamp with daylight bulb, get up and stretch your neck a lot.
Always water paint slightly, never paint out of the pot, it should run down the side of your pallette but try to cling to it as it does.
Painting multiple layers of the same colour is always better than slapping on thick paint.
Dont start out dry brushing everything, even if you suck, try to highlight, save your drybrushing for textured surfaces, your highlighting will improve quickly.
Good luck and post some photos as you go, would love to see
I buy craftsmart 8oz bottles of paint for $2.29 at my local michaels and they are amazing. Just remember to base coat black or white(cheap flat spraypaint is fine.)
One tip I picked up from a GW tutorial was doing the primer/basecoat in the predominate color of the mini - it saved TONS of time. They did some Swordmasters in a silver basecoat, so I tried it and I will never do figures any other way. You don't ever think of primer as any other color than the usual white or black, but the silver basecoat allowed me to finish 20 Swordmasters in no time at all. Since then, I have used blue on some Dwarves, a custom mixed tan-grey for some Skaven - all of it helped speed the process.
So, maybe a primer of skin-tone for your Marauders might be in order. I only prime with enamel-based (NOT acrylic) paints shot through an airbrush, but you can try whatever you like..