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i am stripping my tyranid and am using simple green. i let them soak for at least a
day or 2 then begin to scrub with a tooth brush. but in doin so for some reason the
plastic softens i guess and things begin to break, i broke 2 gaunts legs today and am
really irritated. also i cannot seem to remove all the paint (being tyranid under the torso
and inside leg. i am really P.Oed :realmad: and am wondering what i can do to fix my
tyranids legs (they only have one leg attached to the base) and glue is not working. I
have done this several times and im tired of losing figures. And how can i remove all
the paint, a toothbrush is obviously not working. i am a newby and nothing is really
going right for me (problems with primer, bad painter THINGS BREAKING ect.) plz help
a fellow warhammer follower
sorry another thing can i prime white with a brush, or is spraypaint best? and if i can
with whih a brush how so because it seems real different compared to doing it in black
Let it dip in there for a maximum of 12 hours... two days is a bit too long IMO.
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I have no experience in paint stripping, so I can't help you there.
Undercoating is best done with a spray as it's a LOT faster. If you don't get a good enough coat or if there are areas the spray can't reach you can go over it with some slightly thinned paint (in the colour of your undecoat obviously) and a brush afterwards.
I prefer white as it's easier to paint light colours over and not harder to paint dark ones. Not everyone agrees with me for some reason.
If you have problems sticking your models to their bases you could try pinning them. Drill a small hole into the foot and into the base where the foot is supposed to attach. Then take a bit of wire, bend it into an L-shape and stick it through the hole in the base so it's sticking up from the base on the upside. The L-shape is so you can glue it on the underside of the base. Then glue the foot of the model on the wire so the wire is sticking through the base and into the hole in the foot.
Tyranid feet are a bit... different (damn xenos), so you might have problems drilling a hole into it, but it's worth checking out.
I do believe brake fluid is more gentle then simple green, maybe you should try that out.
I have no idea what simple green is (must be an American thing! ) But I do know that nail varnish remover works great on plastic mini's as it is not too harsh. Women don't want to melt of their nails you know.
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1-2 days in Simple Green is best, the longer in there the easier the paint will come off. When I stripped some of my nids the same thing happened, i broke some of their legs at the base and had a hard time glueing them back on in the end but eventually did it. The toothbrush works nicely but as said its sometimes rough and breaks some pieces...so brush gently and if something won't come off drop it back in the dip and try cleaning that area again later. Be gentle of course. One thing that works wonders is if you have a spray attachment on your kitchen sink or an airbrush or something you can shoot a little water through. I used my kitchen sink attachment, the water comes out of that pretty strong, after removing from my Simple Green I simply spray the paint off with the nozzle there. After I learned to do this I stopped using my toothbrush and stopped breaking gaunt legs at the base. A toothpick to pick out some deep paint on the underbelly and you're done without breaks. I was never 100% picky about little dots of paint left on the mini especially on the underbelly, your next coat of primer covers small problems.Originally posted by Spider@Dec 2 2004, 01:15
Let it dip in there for a maximum of 12 hours... two days is a bit too long IMO.[snapback]263164[/snapback]
Do not meddle in the affairs of Tyranids, for you are crunchy and taste good with everything!
CASTROL SUPER CLEAN! It's better than simple green (in my opinion). It just bubbles up and comes right off. Here is a guide from a friends site showing how easy it was.
Best part about this was he lost no detail on the plastic models!!!
It's a standard cleaner. Bought it from an auto parts store. It's for degreasing or something. Came highly recommended from a post he read. Might be able to find it in the auto section of a Wal-Mart or something too.
And yes, it's a general product. (USA and all)
Here is some information about it. Compared to Simple green. They say it's more harmful to skin use gloves, but it worked GREAT on the models. http://www.simplegreen.com/pdfs/safetycomparechart.pdf
Here's an example of where to buy it. (Bear in mind this link shows a case, it's about $5 a bottle)
BTW, I just talked to my friend who suggested "Castrol Super Clean", he told me he ran a test. He left 2 models in solution for one week.
One model was in the Castrol Super Clean...
The other was in Simple Green...
The simple green actually ate some of the detail from the models and super clean left all the plastic intact
"There is only do, or do not. There is no try." - Yoda
usings castrol super cleaner will it melt the glue as well so it it is easy to remove the parts? plus is the glue easy to remove after removing the parts?(meaning can i peal it of with a modeling knife)
Depends on what type of glue. It's primarily the best way for paint. But yes it did help my friend break some bonds....not completly though.Originally posted by Macragge@Dec 3 2004, 104
usings castrol super cleaner will it melt the glue as well so it it is easy to remove the parts? plus is the glue easy to remove after removing the parts?(meaning can i peal it of with a modeling knife)[snapback]264411[/snapback]
"There is only do, or do not. There is no try." - Yoda