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And another thread, for those unsure on how to prime a model. Don't know whether to paint it on or spray it or you just want to know whats the best type, then keep it here please.
Archieved threads -
To Prime or not to Prime?
You should prime your miniatures. Primer not only assures good paint adhesion, but exposes details and areas you may have missed in the clean-up process. It also creates a uniform base on miniatures composed of different materials, plastic, metal, putty, etc. Primer is not base color. Painting or spraying a coat of paint on the miniature is not primer. Primers are formulated different from paint, and create a better bond between the surface of the miniature and paint.
What kind of primer should you use?
The only thing people usually agree upon is that a spray primer is best, and the primers specifically formulated for miniatures are better at retaining detail. Some people use Krylon with very good results, but it takes a light and even spray to retain detail. Companies that put out good spray primers are Ral Partha, Armory, Floquil, Model Master, Testors, and Citadel. Krylon is the best of the non-hobbyist primers, but other store brands are in the same league. If you use sandable primer, be especially careful to use thin coats so as to not obscure detail.
Before applying primer you will need to clean up any mold lines on the miniature (use a small file, X-acto knife, or emery board), making sure you get rid of any bumps or unevenness on the base. If your miniature has a self-molded base make sure its level. Rubbing the miniature over a flat piece of sandpaper or large file it good for this. Then WASH it in a little soap and water. Various substances are used on miniatures to make them come free of the mold, and hand oils get on the miniature as your working on it. These oils will interfere with paint adhesion unless cleaned off.
What about Paint On Primer?
There are two methods of applying primer, spraying and brushing on. If you're using a brush-on primer, make certain it flows well without being too thin and use a semi-large brush to paint your miniature from top to bottom. My preference for paint on primer is a solvent based (turps, oil paint) paint. It cuts through any oils than may still be on the miniature. You can buy paint on primers from several paint companies. You can also buy primer specially formulated for painting on glass or tile in a hobby store. These work very well for priming metal and plastic miniatures. Other than that, and matt finish solvent paint makes a good primer for minis.
If you're spraying, set up a large box enclosed on three sides in which to place your miniatures for priming. This will keep the paint from going everywhere and also tends to give a better coat. Make sure you have good ventilation, outdoors, in a window, or set up a fan. Spray paint fumes are hazardous. On spray technique, be sure you shake the paint well. It says on the can you should shake it for a full minute, so I do it for two minutes. Shake during use, too. The second thing is spraying the figures with the steady stream of spray. Start the spray before it hits the figs and stop the spray after it passes over the miniatures. The spray that comes out of the can when you first start spraying and when you stop spraying is inconsistent and splatters. It wastes some paint, but the finish is worth it. Next, keep the can as upright as possible, and keep the nozzle about 8 inches from the figs. Any closer and it's too hard to control the amount of paint on the figs. Any further and the paint starts to dry before it hits the figs. Always make sure you get the underside of the miniature as well. I usually start with the miniatures laying down and spray once, after they dry I roll them over and spray again. Both these passes are sprayed from the foot end of the mini. After they dry, I stand them up and spray one pass from each side.
What color of primer?
A thousand answers exist for this one. The best advice available is use what you prefer. White primer make colors brighter and is best for light colored miniatures. Black primer gives good shadows and is commonly used to base modern military and skeleton figures. Gray is rather neutral allowing for brighter light colors and decent shading. The best tip is experiment and see what you like.
I really strongly advise against using car primers such as halfords on plastic models as they DO attack the plastic. They are great for metal though.
Hello, This one is for all my Australian comrades;
Check out Australian Export Spray paint. The best spray is matt black with white being the worst. White is all dusty and stuff andyou don't want that on your well painted models as it Obscures the details of the model.
I've been using a variety of spray primers to prime my models, however, since it's a spray primer i can't do it indoors and it won't dry in the garage where i do all my priming in summer since it's -15 celcius (around 5 farenheit) out there... bloody winter.
Anyway, I have a few cans of paint on primer in the basement but find priming the 50 new marauder models i have tedious to say the least. I was wondering if anybody has tried just dipping models into a can of primer to prime them and how well it worked out for them if they have.
Thanks in advance,
DO NOT do that. The primer will fill in much of the detail, and you will get big drips of paint. To dip a model the paint/ink/stain has to be as thin as skim milk so most of it runs off. That would defeat the purpose of the primer.Originally posted by ForgottenKnight2001@Dec 31 2004, 09:52
Anyway, I have a few cans of paint on primer in the basement but find priming the 50 new marauder models i have tedious to say the least. I was wondering if anybody has tried just dipping models into a can of primer to prime them and how well it worked out for them if they have.[snapback]290036[/snapback]
I prime in the snow many winters. I keep the primer and miniatures indoors so they are at room temp. I put the minis on a board, step outside with my already shaken primer, spray, and go right back inside. The minis dry inside the house. They smell a little, but its not bad. And you don't have to spray inside. I found freezing temps better that hot humid days for priming.
Recently I built a spray booth so I can spray inside. It doesn't look fancy, but it was dirt cheap. The fan vents the spray outside through the dryer vent hose. The orange hose is an airhose for airbrushes which I also spray indide the house. No problems so far.
I have a newbie question, kinda. I have bought Ogre Kingdoms and have always been told to Pime with spray after assembly. If i do that with Ogres, its impossable to paint under guts, between arms and bodies and so on. I have always primed and painted on the sprew. it works for me.
What do you guys do?
Happy New Year by the way!
I undercoat after assembly because if you do it before it leaves a paint on paint bond which is very weak compared to a plastic on plastic bond using the same glue. Don't worry aboutnot being able to paint under guts, between arms and bodies as you most likely won't be able to see them anyways.I have a newbie question, kinda. I have bought Ogre Kingdoms and have always been told to Pime with spray after assembly. If i do that with Ogres, its impossable to paint under guts, between arms and bodies and so on. I have always primed and painted on the sprew. it works for me.
What do you guys do?
I was wondering if anyone had any opinions about using spray primer, spray paint, or both.
Has anyone experienced problems?
For my tanks and deathwing, I just spray on the Dark Angels Green or Bleached bone without the undercoat. (If you were wondering why I basecoat Deathwing Models with Bone, it's because it becomes a really great base color when you cover it with Flesh Wash and then go over it again with Bleached bone paint.
I have found that krylon will mess up plastic too much to be worth using. Someone once told me its called frosting, but it looks like your mini just got all wrinkly, or prunny, like your grandpa. I did some tests, and the primer actually melts the plastic a little on the surface. After examining the bottle, I found it contained acetone, and other chemicals that will most likely damage plastic. So while the can might say safe for plastic, I am not using it again. It almost ruined my first 3 destroyers... I now have to strip them, then saand, and get a fine file into the high detail spots... Damn you Krylon, cost me $4 and almost ruined my models.
Is the GW black primer good? I need to get some more now, and I was thinking that would be my best bet. Thanks.