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When people say to thin down the paints, or have a mix of two colors (i.e. 50/50 chaos black/shadow grey), how scientific do they want you to be? Frequently, I'm told to "gradually highlight from dark angels green to scorpion green" or something like that... should I be using a dropper with a milliliter measurment and empty paint pots? Is this something I should just eyeball?
Obviously, I'm still pretty much a novice painter, but are there mixing tools I could buy, so I can ensure some standard? I just feel bad when I hear to "highlight up from chaos black to chestnut brown" and I don't know the exact steps in between. Assuming I have the steadiest hand in the world, infinite patience, and can paint details fantastically, (which, to some degree, I do), what's a good, comprehensive book on painting that'll tell me exactly how to do showcase level stuff in terms of highlighting and shading? I've got a big tyranid army, a big genestealer cult, and soon, I'll have a big pile of feral orks, all unpainted, and I want to lavish them will lots of attention... but I want to do 'em right, and have my hand held while I do it.
Well Clark I don't know how scientific anyone else is but I don't use eye-droppers, syringes, etc., to mix my paints. Here's what I do (be it right or wrong):
- First I mix my paints on a fairly large (BGB sized) white glazed ceramic bathroom tile. Being that it's glazed it doesn't absorb any paint & being white I have a neutral background in which I can judge if my mixture is close to what I want.
- I use my paintbrush to measure who much paint is in the mix. For example, let's say I want to mix from dark angels green (DAG) to scorpion green (SG) with the basecoat being DAG. I would use my paintbrush to pull one loaded brush full of SG to 4 brush loads of DAG (I also put a drop of water in the mix). After I'm finished with that batch then I mix 2 brushes of SG to 3 brushes of DAG, each batch I mix altering the ratio slightly.
- I mix my batches next to each other on the white tile so I can easily compare the two shades. In this way I have a "color trail" on the tile to help me visualize things.
- Most importantly you have to be a good judge of how much paint you loaded into your brush and be consistent.
Don't know if I answered your question adequately but hopefully I helped a little. Good luck.
Oh and BTW, I'm sure this probably has no basis in scientific fact but for some reason I always seem to have a steadier hand when I paint if I'm drinking ginger ale... :hmm:
I hear voices...and they don't like you!
helps a lot... saving it to a document
I think you can tell I'm rather fond of following directions
I am sure this has been covered in other posts but this is what I do.
I use vallejo paints in the dropper bottles which are great for getting your 50/50 etc. formulations of colors. It is really nice because you can pretty much count on fairly consistent mixes of colors.
I also thin my paint with a mixture of water/extender, future floor wax which I have pre-mixed in a small bottle. The bottle has a cone tip on it and it drops the solution out very close to an eyedropper bottle. I believe the mix I use is a 40/20/20 mix of water,extender, future floor wax. I got the recipe from a news post on another list but I think that is the right formulation.
Hope that helps.
Hmm, why the floor wax?
The way I understand it floor wax has some of the same qualities as extender and tends to give a more even coverage of the color over an area...Haven't tried it myself but will in the near future. On a different but related subject I use rubbing alcohol for washes when I want it to only reside in the nooks & crannys of my model...be careful though 'cuz it runs like greased lightning!Originally posted by Tonya Tau@Dec 31 2004, 206
Hmm, why the floor wax?[snapback]290100[/snapback]
I hear voices...and they don't like you!
It helps cut the surface tension as well and allows the paint to better go where you want it to. Some people also use a drop of dish soap for the same thing. It is really good for getting washes to go into the crevasses.